malibuguy said:id like to find a way to make a gauge pod that goes into the clock pocket on a tercel
fusion 360 is a free autodesk cad program.
Then again, no idea is new....
malibuguy said:id like to find a way to make a gauge pod that goes into the clock pocket on a tercel
fusion 360 is a free autodesk cad program.
Then again, no idea is new....
minivan_racer said:malibuguy said:id like to find a way to make a gauge pod that goes into the clock pocket on a tercel
fusion 360 is a free autodesk cad program.
Then again, no idea is new....
Godddddamnit. I knew i should of made it like 8 years ago i could of been a hundrednaire
And for reals tho...thats ungly as sin and I wanted to make a dual pod
I like printing terrain. Either from the earth or the moon.
I also made a stand for my family’s devices. There’s a USB hub inside. 
If anyone wants the STL, message me. But don’t sell any.
Hey Boost, how about making the Mars terrain around the face?
minivan_racer said:malibuguy said:id like to find a way to make a gauge pod that goes into the clock pocket on a tercel
fusion 360 is a free autodesk cad program.
So if I'm just looking at getting my feet wet fusion 360 is a good place to start? I went to download it this weekend and had some computer problems (one of my monitors died after only 8 years of almost non-stop service, tragic..)
dclafleur said:minivan_racer said:malibuguy said:id like to find a way to make a gauge pod that goes into the clock pocket on a tercel
fusion 360 is a free autodesk cad program.
So if I'm just looking at getting my feet wet fusion 360 is a good place to start? I went to download it this weekend and had some computer problems (one of my monitors died after only 8 years of almost non-stop service, tragic..)
If you're familiar with AutoDesk's other software (AutoCAD, etc.) then you can generally get a good handle on it with practice. There are some great tutorials on YouTube to help learn it, etc.
In reply to lastsnare :
That is a type of DED (direct energy deposition) type system, they are usually wire fed via a robot arm or via powdered metal. Some are multi function/hybrid machines and include some sort of CNC machining capability as they machine a clean layer for the next weld/additive layer to be deposed onto but this looks like the style they use to repair spindles or large castings/pieces but you can make parts from scratch like a DMLS system too since they are both a laser welding process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2foaRi4nxM
I dont like how he is handling the powder without gloves or a mask though... this stuff is like 20-30 micron particle size.
bluej said:fidelity101 said:I print in metal so if anyone is interested in some weird project feel free to reach me.
https://www.gknpm.com/en/our-businesses/gkn-additive/
no minimum order quantity.
HMM. That's very interesting.
business or personal feel free to PM me!
Stefan said:If you're familiar with AutoDesk's other software (AutoCAD, etc.) then you can generally get a good handle on it with practice. There are some great tutorials on YouTube to help learn it, etc.
Awesome, I downloaded it last night and fired up a tutorial video. Probably take me a year to make a small box in it but heck I didn't know how to work on cars when I started either.
Inspired by corsepervita and his Lambo thread, I ordered a Prusa i3 Mk3s the other day. Should get it on Weds sometime, and I've already got a bunch of things I want to make.
Fun to see some of the thingiverse parts - I like the tig torch holder especially.
For now I've got some templates and brackets planned, along with a couple functional prototypes for a customer.
Big post got deleted. Ugh. Shorter post.
Got my Mk3 on Weds, and got it assembled over two evenings. The design on this thing is very cool. Really an impressive work of engineering. The software is very sophisticated for hobby grade cnc.
Assembled:
This morning I had it up and running in no time. Interface is really easy.
Test print from the included SD card turned out very nice:
I'm going to do some big prints shortly - some router templates for cutting complex shapes into 1/8" aluminum tubing. Fingers-crossed it goes well, but regardless I'm a huge fan already!
The Prusa is generally the mark all other printers are put against. It's just way outta my budget. Are you using Prusaslicer?
minivan_racer said:The Prusa is generally the mark all other printers are put against. It's just way outta my budget. Are you using Prusaslicer?
Yeah, that's what I'm using. It's very simple and intuitive. At this point I've not needed anything different.
I did have a problem yesterday / today. I started an 11 hr print last night, and expected it to be done this morning. Woke up to find a "Crash Detected" error message and only about one layer down on the print bed. I did a bit of troubleshooting and found one of the x-axis bearings was stiff and would stall the axis when it kicked into rapid feed mode. I smeared grease on the rods and jogged the axis back and forth until it loosened up.
It's running now and about 11% into that print. Looks and sounds happy, but I'll be watching that bearing.
minivan_racer said:The Prusa is generally the mark all other printers are put against. It's just way outta my budget. Are you using Prusaslicer?
The MK3 is nice, but it’s kinda like the Ford Explorer of the 3D printing world. It’s the most popular, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best. For the money, I’d have bought a printer from MakerFarm. Higher quality components and stelar customer service
I recently sold my Prusa MK2 and bought an Elegoo Mars. The Mars is a SLA resin printer that uses an LCD screen to cure UV sensitive resin. This is my second print off of the printer, printed at 0.05mm (50 micron) layer height. I had to scale the block to 35% of the file's original size to fit it on the build plate, Milwaukee Inkzall for size reference.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1911808/
I don't know who needs it, but this would be pretty darned handy for someone:
Fresh off my printer-
RacetruckRon said:I recently sold my Prusa MK2 and bought an Elegoo Mars. The Mars is a SLA resin printer that uses an LCD screen to cure UV sensitive resin. This is my second print off of the printer, printed at 0.05mm (50 micron) layer height. I had to scale the block to 35% of the file's original size to fit it on the build plate, Milwaukee Inkzall for size reference.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1911808/
I was close to pulling the trigger on the elegoo but started hearing about rapid failure of the screen. I’m eager to hear how this works out for you ober the coming months.
In reply to DrBoost :
I'm hoping it holds up, I am quite impressed with the resolution and relative ease of use for the price point.
I confirmed yesterday that PETG is fine for use in milling machine soft jaws:
The custom soft jaws made milling this weird part a lot easier. The material held up fine, though the angle heated up quite a bit. Rigidity was just fine, and the part didn't slip at all.
I have an stl file of a tail light lens that needs work if there's a solidworks master out there willing to fix it. It's like the part is from a mid-90s video game; not enough polygons. The result is the surface of the printed part is faceted rather than smooth. I don't have a clue if the file is fixable or how difficult it might be.
In reply to Apis Mellifera :
I can have a look at it. I might not be able to repair the surface, but it looks pretty simple. Probably could just make a new part file.
I printed these tap organizers the other day. Found the design on Thingiverse.
Really cleaned up my messy tap selection.
Made this handy dandy flat stock bender today:
It's some thin aluminum being bent. I needed a 10" diameter circle out of 1/8" x 1/2" flat. So pretty thin and flexible stuff.
The finished part came out almost perfect:
The radius of the jaws has to be a fair bit smaller - about 2/3 the desired diameter seems to be the magic number.
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