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mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 12:58 p.m.

My next car might not be a long-term car, but I gotta get something more enjoyable than my red appliance. Since it isn't long term, I'm trying to think of vehicles that are DD'able and probably won't depreciate much.

So it needs to be safe, meaning I can drive it almost every day and my wife will feel ok--so dual airbags are a must, it needs to be relatively low barrier to entry ($4,000-$7,000 cash, or new enough that it can be financed), and it needs to be "rare".

I'm coming up with this list:

Mustang Bullitt
E36 and E43 M3
Tahoe/Yukon/Blazer 2 door
GTO
C5 Corvette's
NA/NB Miatas, if bought correctly

Anything else? I'd like to drive something more or less for free for a few years.

Klayfish
Klayfish UberDork
2/8/17 1:06 p.m.

You're not getting a GTO or C5 for under $7k unless it's a total basket case.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 1:07 p.m.
Klayfish wrote: You're not getting a GTO or C5 for under $7k unless it's a total basket case.

C5 and GTO can both be financed though.

STM317
STM317 Dork
2/8/17 1:08 p.m.

I feel like SN95 Mustangs are pretty near the bottom of the depreciation curve. With the right Fox Body car, you could maybe make money.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 1:10 p.m.
STM317 wrote: I feel like SN95 Mustangs are pretty near the bottom of the depreciation curve. Fox Body cars are on the way back up.

SN95 would be a good one to add. Fox Body too old.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ SuperDork
2/8/17 1:12 p.m.

MR2- Either a Turbo or a clean Spyder should appreciate from here on out
S14- Clean ones are only getting rarer
Z32 300zx- See above

NickD
NickD SuperDork
2/8/17 1:22 p.m.

Miatas are on the upswing. Get one now (Especially a good limited edition, like a '93 LE or an M-Edition) and if you take care of it, it should be worth more in a few years.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ SuperDork
2/8/17 1:23 p.m.

If you want more luxury, the existence of the Aristocrats class at the challenge seems to indicate that 90s luxury sedan values have almost completely bottomed out as well.

Klayfish
Klayfish UberDork
2/8/17 1:38 p.m.
mtn wrote:
Klayfish wrote: You're not getting a GTO or C5 for under $7k unless it's a total basket case.
C5 and GTO can both be financed though.

True. Only caveat to that is finding the right place to finance it. Many lenders don't want to finance a car that old, or if they will, interest rate will be high. But if you're financing it and can make it work, those would be my personal choices.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 1:49 p.m.
Klayfish wrote:
mtn wrote:
Klayfish wrote: You're not getting a GTO or C5 for under $7k unless it's a total basket case.
C5 and GTO can both be financed though.
True. Only caveat to that is finding the right place to finance it. Many lenders don't want to finance a car that old, or if they will, interest rate will be high. But if you're financing it and can make it work, those would be my personal choices.

I work for a bank and am a member of 3 credit unions. I got connections

trucke
trucke Dork
2/8/17 1:55 p.m.

2012 - 2013 Ford Focus are falling into that price range. Comfortable commuter car. The manual would be better for reliability, but are hard to find. New enough to finance!

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner MegaDork
2/8/17 2:00 p.m.

For $7k, you're looking at something fairly ordinary near the bottom of the curve. You're not going to make any money to speak of, so pick something you want to drive. Take maintenance into consideration as well. I don't think driver quality Miatas are going up much, it's only the exceptional ones that are really appreciating. The changes in NAs and NB pricing are still just noise in the system.

If you're going to finance it, get something that's worth money and ride that instead. You'll make more money off a higher valued car. Like a 911 or a G8. Otherwise, I like your idea of an E36 M3. I think they're next.

alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
2/8/17 2:03 p.m.

In reply to mtn:

Free? The cost of ownership of some of those cars will not exactly be cheap. Between fuel and insurance, that may totally offset the depreciation of another used car that is cheaper to operate.

There's more to the math than just value.

Klayfish
Klayfish UberDork
2/8/17 2:13 p.m.

You may not make money out of it, but the NC Miatas are starting to fall into this range. I just bought a super clean '06 GT for $4850. Certainly don't think it will go up in value, but don't think I'm going to lose my shirt on it either.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 2:16 p.m.
alfadriver wrote: In reply to mtn: Free? The cost of ownership of some of those cars will not exactly be cheap. Between fuel and insurance, that may totally offset the depreciation of another used car that is cheaper to operate. There's more to the math than just value.

But that will be true of any vehicle. And since I don't drive much, my fuel costs are minimal even with a Suburban.

Using local gas prices, MPG figures from Fuelly, actual insurance estimates, and my driving habits the difference in a Suburban and a Corolla was about $200 a year more for the Suburban. If I double my mileage driven, I'm at about $500 a year difference.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ SuperDork
2/8/17 2:19 p.m.
mtn wrote: Using local gas prices, MPG figures from Fuelly, actual insurance estimates, and my driving habits the difference in a Suburban and a Corolla was about $200 a year more for the Suburban. If I double my mileage driven, I'm at about $500 a year difference.

Then berkeley it, just do the 2 door GMT400- parts are incredibly cheap and you can walk into any NAPA/PepVanceZone and they'll be in stock.

Dave
Dave Reader
2/8/17 2:22 p.m.

Classic Wrangler style Jeep

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 2:22 p.m.

Perusing the local craigslist... Anyone know what the going rate for a 150k mile Miata LE would be? Owner describes the rust as "minor rust on bottom of both rear rockers and small spot on Left Rear Fender above the tire".

Or, in other words, what is the least it could be worth? Interior is in decent condition.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 2:23 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ wrote:
mtn wrote: Using local gas prices, MPG figures from Fuelly, actual insurance estimates, and my driving habits the difference in a Suburban and a Corolla was about $200 a year more for the Suburban. If I double my mileage driven, I'm at about $500 a year difference.
Then berkeley it, just do the 2 door GMT400- parts are incredibly cheap and you can walk into any NAPA/PepVanceZone and they'll be in stock.

This is the plan that I've been working on recently. Just haven't found one that has been good enough to make me look at it.

Bobzilla
Bobzilla UltimaDork
2/8/17 2:25 p.m.

Here, a truck. Any domestic full size truck will retain value.

alfadriver
alfadriver MegaDork
2/8/17 2:31 p.m.
mtn wrote:
alfadriver wrote: In reply to mtn: Free? The cost of ownership of some of those cars will not exactly be cheap. Between fuel and insurance, that may totally offset the depreciation of another used car that is cheaper to operate. There's more to the math than just value.
But that will be true of any vehicle. And since I don't drive much, my fuel costs are minimal even with a Suburban. Using local gas prices, MPG figures from Fuelly, actual insurance estimates, and my driving habits the difference in a Suburban and a Corolla was about $200 a year more for the Suburban. If I double my mileage driven, I'm at about $500 a year difference.

If you drive that little, why do you need so much car? Honest question- I know we are enthusiests and all, but sometimes a cool car isn't really worth it.

mtn
mtn MegaDork
2/8/17 2:49 p.m.
alfadriver wrote:
mtn wrote:
alfadriver wrote: In reply to mtn: Free? The cost of ownership of some of those cars will not exactly be cheap. Between fuel and insurance, that may totally offset the depreciation of another used car that is cheaper to operate. There's more to the math than just value.
But that will be true of any vehicle. And since I don't drive much, my fuel costs are minimal even with a Suburban. Using local gas prices, MPG figures from Fuelly, actual insurance estimates, and my driving habits the difference in a Suburban and a Corolla was about $200 a year more for the Suburban. If I double my mileage driven, I'm at about $500 a year difference.
If you drive that little, why do you need so much car? Honest question- I know we are enthusiests and all, but sometimes a cool car isn't really worth it.

Because I drive enough to need a car, and if I need any car I might as well be able to go have fun in it every once in a while. I've got an Accord right now. My first ever appliance car that is "mine" and not shared with someone. It is a wonderful car, but I just miss having something that is cool in some way.

mazdeuce
mazdeuce UltimaDork
2/8/17 3:08 p.m.

Early SN95 with the 5.0. Find a clean one and take care of it and they should retain all their value. The downside being whether or not you want to spend that much time in an early SN95 and can resist modding it.

Furious_E
Furious_E Dork
2/8/17 3:33 p.m.
mtn wrote:
Klayfish wrote:
mtn wrote:
Klayfish wrote: You're not getting a GTO or C5 for under $7k unless it's a total basket case.
C5 and GTO can both be financed though.
True. Only caveat to that is finding the right place to finance it. Many lenders don't want to finance a car that old, or if they will, interest rate will be high. But if you're financing it and can make it work, those would be my personal choices.
I work for a bank and am a member of 3 credit unions. I got connections

Yup, my CU is super cool about financing some oddball stuff. Not that I've really taken advantage of it too much (yet, anyways) but I have questioned them about it pretty extensively. Their policy is that they basically don't care how old or how many miles, as long as they say it's worth at least $3k.

There's a ton of stuff we at least semi-regularly discuss that should fit the bill, as many of our favorites seem to be at the bottom of the curve already. Miatae, any gen MR2, E36/E46 M3 (as well as their more sedate siblings), 'Vette, GTO, Camarobird, Moostang, 300ZX , RX7, early WRX, early Boxster, 996, Aristocrat class sedan, FJ80 Landcrusher...I could go on.

I don't think depreciation is going to be a major expense on any of those, especially at the mileage you're putting on. I'd be more concerned about operating costs. Which is least likely to need a major repair or a ton of deferred maintenance over that period? In that regard, I'd think the MR2, Miata, or any of the 'Merican choices are pretty safe.

SEADave
SEADave HalfDork
2/8/17 3:34 p.m.

The first car that comes to mind when people talk about cars that don't depreciate is any Porsche 911. Definitely not gonna find anything but a major project for $7k, but you said something you could finance is ok. Buy it right and no reason to think you can't sell it for the same amount in 3 years, especially considering the small amount of miles you drive.

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