I know a young guy that had storm damage to his shingles and since his father owned a carpet business I suggested he get some carpeting and roll it down over the damage.
I know a young guy that had storm damage to his shingles and since his father owned a carpet business I suggested he get some carpeting and roll it down over the damage.
Datsun310Guy said:I know a young guy that had storm damage to his shingles and since his father owned a carpet business I suggested he get some carpeting and roll it down over the damage.
Storm damage is covered by homeowners insurance . All you pay is deductible. ( usually about $500 ) This is one area to get a professional roofer involved before you call your insurance company. Their estimating and documenting services are free up to the point of the actual work. They know how to present it to the insurance company so your claim won’t be denied.
You have one year from the date of the storm to make your claim. Rain is not likely to be sufficient. High winds that tear off tabs or hail damage . Often hail damage or high winds will primarily one side and not the other. A good roofing guy knows what to look for on the undamaged side and how to document it to get the whole roof replaced.
Same with siding.
Do you have any idea why the roof is still leaking after putting new boots in?
Seems to me that taking off some shingles near the valley and correcting the problem would be a lot cheaper (especially DIY) than a total re-roof. And shingling over a leak may not fix the leak at all.
In reply to frenchyd :
This isn’t storm damage, it’s a worn-out roof.
In reply to Pete Gossett :
Doesn't matter. It's a construction question. Therefore, all responses that wander off the topic are fair game, as long as they eventually get to financial, jaguars, politics, and Disney princess castle roof pitches!
The last roofer that did my roof (the good one) told me that I would save around $1000 doing the roof myself. 3 of the 4 roofs on my house are steep. No way was I doing it myself. They did the whole thing in two days and were gone. He also did it for what the insurance paid.
spitfirebill said:He also did it for what the insurance paid.
Funny how THAT works...
When I talked to a few roofers before i decided to do it myself their first question was always "how much is your insurance going to pay?". (Or the slightly more shrouded "who is your home insurance provider?" And "what is your deductible?".) No jackhole, I want to know how much you would charge to do the work, not that you can charge the full insurance amount.
I understand it's probably rare that someone wants to pay out of pocket and the roofer is just assuming, but some of us aren't actually going through insurance.
Robbie said:spitfirebill said:He also did it for what the insurance paid.
Funny how THAT works...
When I talked to a few roofers before i decided to do it myself their first question was always "how much is your insurance going to pay?". (Or the slightly more shrouded "who is your home insurance provider?" And "what is your deductible?".) No jackhole, I want to know how much you would charge to do the work, not that you can charge the full insurance amount.
I understand it's probably rare that someone wants to pay out of pocket and the roofer is just assuming, but some of us aren't actually going through insurance.
Outside of hurricanes I'd say a good 75% of my roof claims come in from roofers going around door to door telling the people their roof needs replacement. The majority I meet have been doing roofing less than a couple months so you can imagine the quality of the inspections.
I am routinely surprised how many people sign contracts without really reading what it says or what the price is.
Edit:. My job only keeps me on them for about half and hour to an hour at a time essentially just inspecting, photos and measurements. It gets pretty hot especially in the FL summer. It'll burn exposed skin with more than a few seconds contact and can start to burn your feet through your shoes. After 5 or so inspections in a day I am pretty much wore out.
I've done it, but not in 20 years. It can be done. It does suck.
No good pointers other than think like water. It's just a long hard slog from start to finish.
If your time and pain is worth the $5k difference, and you honestly think you are physically capable of doing it, go for it. If not, pay someone. Getting half way through and changing your mind would suck.
Remembering the pain, I paid to have my last roof done.
OK boys, grab your underwear:
I live near Seattle (building boom with labor shortages and fastest real estate appreciation in the country), but we are on a island which exaggerates this. One friend had a comp roof tear off and redo, contracted with Home Depot, came close to $1000/ SQ (100 sq ft). I was astonished, but heard of another neighbor who got a similar "job" done.
I'm a design /builder basically aware of prices, but ...
So instead of trying not to do roofing , maybe there's a new lucrative career path.
In reply to coexist :
Ever see an old roofer?
He was probably 32...
In reply to Robbie :
I thought it was pretty funny (strange) too. The roofer was not happy with what the insurance company was paying, but he did it anyway.
Layovers are bad, IMHO. If you can, you could tearoff and reshingle one slope of the roof at a time. If all your leaks are on one slope, then you may have solved the problem.
If you want a cheap solution, I've used Leak-seal spray for a leak that I knew the origin of, or if you want to do the whole roof, I've used Thompson's waterseal in a garden sprayer to extend the life of a roof.
Wish I was there to help you out!
In reply to FIYAPOWA :
Thanks!
At this point I’m going to try & more accurately identify the source of the leak, possibly with the assistance of a hose and/or power washer. Then I can decide whether the whole roof needs to happen right now, or can wait until spring as planned/budgeted.
I would also agree a roof over is not the best idea. The ones I see are usually going bad within 10-15 years. There are issues with heat, leaks, overdriving nails etc. vs going down to the decking you would see 15-25 years depending on the shingles. This is in FL where the sun kills shingles faster than other parts of the country.
Roof overs last about 1/2 as long as a redo. I was watching a flipping show the other day and the house they were doing had 4 layers. There is no way they wouldn’t have noticed during the walk around.
For single story ranch you might be able to set up some pallet racking on the ground and have the pallets of shingles just set on top at roof level. That's what I did for a shed once and it worked well.
My dad always used an old 40' grain conveyor hooked up to the tractor, which was often raised and parked so he could tie a harness to the end of it too. I remember when he brought the thing home and we all thought he was a little nuts, but it worked really well.
I've done a few roofs over the years. We're going metal on this house after seeing Mom and Dad's metal roofing. It's not difficult mentally, but it's too much for these old bones to do anymore.
Pete
I am on lunch and I can answer some of your questions.
1. The price you were quoted for the roof is reasonable.
2. "Only 4 / 12" Bad way to look at it. People get lax about lower pitch roofing and this is where accidents happen.
3. The height is also deceptive. In the roofing world heights between 6' and 25' are the most dangerous as it does not look all that high but in reality, if you fall from where you are going to get seriously hurt. Over 25' or so and the odds are you will die under 6 feet and the odds are you are just going to be really pissed off.
The short of it is be careful and take a good hard look at your ability.
As for roofing materials. (this is based on a complete rip and replacement)
1. On that low a slope I would consider using 100 percent ice and weather shield over the whole roof. Yes, it will add $500 or more to the job but at that low, pitch ice dams are a real issue. I will spec this on shingle roofs at that pitch or lower.
2. Yes you need felt #15 is good #30 is better
3. As for shingle type. Look at the local code. Here in MA, the min is 30-year shingle. The old 25's and 20-year shingles are a thing of the past. Now there is the matter of quality. Again you probably don't need the very best shingle. They can be very expensive however don't go with the least expensive either. Warranties are prorated so even if you don't get the full-service life from the shingle and you win your warranty claim, in the end, you will get pennies on the dollar. Also how long do you pan on being in the place? if it is 10 years you can go with a lesser grade. However, if you plan on being there for 50 then you should consider stepping up to a better shingle.
If this is a go over then you need to look at the warranties of the shingle manufacturers as many will not warranty a shingle that is installed over an existing shingle roof and items #1 and #2 are not relevant as well.
Hope this helps
Dean.
is there a way of checking for leaky areas when its not raining ?
it will probably not rain here for another 4-5 months,
last year I got some drips at one place on a cross brace , so not sure where its coming from,
its an old house and the next owner will probably own a bulldozer so if I can keep it dry for another 5-10 years I would be happy......
thanks for your idea
In reply to dean1484 :
Ice dams in MS?? 
Wife, to hubby: "When you gonna fix that leaky roof?"
Hubby: "When it rains, it's too wet to fix the roof. When it's sunny, my roof's as good as any man's roof!"
At this moment my 3 options are:
I certainly have no desire to reshingle it all myself, but neither do I care to do my own auto repair. It’s just a matter of budget vs. finding competent, trustworthy & affordable “professionals”. In other words, I’ll do it if it needs done now & I have to do it, but I’d much rather not.
Im going to take reference measurements of where the water is leaking into the bathroom, then transfer them with chalk onto the roof & take a couple pics. I’m beginning to think the water might not be leaking in where I thought it was.
#1 AND #4
californiamilleghia said:is there a way of checking for leaky areas when its not raining ?
it will probably not rain here for another 4-5 months,
last year I got some drips at one place on a cross brace , so not sure where its coming from,
its an old house and the next owner will probably own a bulldozer so if I can keep it dry for another 5-10 years I would be happy......
thanks for your idea
Your best bet if the underside of the roof is accessible in the attic is to go up there with a lot of light and look for stains.
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