Educate me on Mountain Bike clip in pedals

I've been doing a bit of mountain biking lately. My bike is nothing special, but I think I would benefit from having a more secure grip on the pedals. I know nothing about them. I'm not hardcore, I just go a few times a week to have fun and get some excercise. Are there different systems? I'm looking to do this fairly cheaply. Is this possible? Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm planning to make the switch this season, too. I've never used them before, but I bought a new bike last year and, even though I swapped over my old pedals, I can't just tap into them like I did on my old bike. I have a set of SPD pedals, so I'll get some shoes and give them a shot.

Clipless/clip-in pedals make for a fantastic improvement to your riding.

There are different systems, but they all do essentially the same thing. The most popular is Shimano's SPD pedal, and that's probably about the cheapest way to get into it. Unlike some other clipless pedals (Crankbrothers, for instance), SPDs have a spring tension adjustment, allowing you to clip in and out with greater ease, until you become used to being "locked" into the pedals. SPDs come in a few different models, from the cheapest 'entry-level' (which are perfectly fine), through to the high-end ($$$) 'XTR' variety. The dearer models use nicer materials & better bearings, but the basic design remains the same.

You will of course have to buy shoes, and that's where the greatest cost lies. Ensure you're getting 'MTB' shoes, rather than 'road' shoes, as the two types take a different sort of cleat, (the small metal piece, bolted to the sole of the shoe, which clips to the pedal.)

There's not a whole lot more to it than that, really. Position of the cleat on the shoe is important, but you can fine-tune that via trial and error, or pay extra at the bike shop, and they'll make sure you're set up properly.

I just use the clips that came on my bike. It's just a plastic piece on the pedal and a strap, which I just leave a little loose so I can get my feet out. There are better systems which use a special shoe that clips into the pedal. I suspect they run a bit of cash. I wouldn't consider riding without at least the toe clips. They make your pedaling a whole lot more efficient.

Just remember to get your feet out before you come to a stop. I had a friend who was distracted and came to a stoplight and couldn't get his feet out. Gravity got the better of him. It's not a good thing to be lying in the street with a bicycle attached to your feet.

There are a ton of different systems out there. You would need to pick up a set of pedals and shoes dedicated to it. It'll run about $100 for the shoes and pedals if you shop around.

Would you ever want to ride it again with regular sneakers? If so, you'll want a set of pedals with flats on one side and clipless on the other, or some SPD clipless pedals with big pedal pads.

If you don't mind not using sneakers again, there are a bunch of options. Shimano SPD's are ok, but doesn't really allow for alot of knee rotation, so my knees are sore after using them. I perfer 'Time ATAC' or 'Eggbeaters' since they both allow some freedom and you can choose which side you twist your foot to get out (away from vs towards the bike). I'm a recreational mountain biker, I ride when the weather and my schedule permits.

I used to run Crank Brothers Mallet clipless pedals, and if I had to go back to clipless pedals I would do the same, with some of the new Five Ten SPD-compatable shoes, since they give you enough grip on the pedal to ride through a section not clipped in, if you feel the need to. I do prefer to ride flats (PointOne Racing Podium pedals) with a set of non-SPD FiveTen shoes (I've used the original Sam Hill edition Impacts and am on a set of Freeriders now, really comfy, looks like a skate shoe and they're not that bad to drive in, either), and as such, I would suggest picking up a set of the SPD-compatable FiveTens, and a decent set of thin (~17mm or thinner) flat pedals, and ride for a while with that setup, then get a set of either Candys or Acids (my preference, has enough platform to let you ride not-clipped in through a section or if you have to unclip you can make a few pedal strokes before clipping in, if necessary), cut the little plug out of the sole of the shoe to reveal the SPD mounting holes, bolt your cleats up, and have fun. I made the mistake of going to SPD-based pedals too soon, and if you ride aggressively, you can certainly learn some bad habits, such as of pulling up on the pedals to get the rear end off the ground when trying to bunnyhop, which definitely does not translate well to riding flats, but if you learn to bunnyhop a decent height with flats, then move over to clipless, you will be a lot better off imho

EDIT: if you're just a recreational rider hitting the trails every once in a while, I would stick with flats and go the Five Ten/decent pedal route. look for something with screw-in traction pins, either long set screws, or if you can find them for a decent price, a set that have actual screws that thread in from the opposite side of the pedal. for reviews, just hop on mtbr.com and go to their forums, to the All Mountain, Downhill/Freeride/Dirt Jump sections, lurk around a bit, and see what most people are running for flats, and go with those. as far as shoes go, Five Tens are the ones to have, as the rubber they use will stick to the pedals like a set of brand new R-Comps on swept-off pavement. the ones designed to be SPD-compatable have a stiffer sole and thus will transfer power better, but they won't be as comfy to walk around in. the non-SPD versions are more flexible so they are more comfortable, especially in hike-a-bike situations, but they won't transfer power as well, due to the more flexible sole

+1 on the "Eggbeaters". I always rode SPDs on mine, but my buddy had Eggbeaters and after a really muddy or dirty ride, all of the extra space around his pedals let him keep clipping in with no problems while my SPDs would get caked in mud and make it difficult to clip back in if I stepped off. They have spring tension like Luke mentioned and allow for good knee float like Brotus7 mentioned.

I'm going clipless on my road bikes in the next couple of weeks. I'm sticking w/ toe clips on the MTB, though. Too much of a leap of faith there (and toeclips have worked for me for 20+ years now)

I already have a couple of sets of SPD pedals (got them for a song years ago), so I just have to find an SPD compatible shoe.

FWIW, Vans makes one called the Warner SPD. Looks like a regular Vans shoe, but has a cleat mount.

Long-time toe strap guys will be surprised at how much easier it is to get in and out of a set of good clips. Really. I swore by my toe straps for years, but eventually realized how much of a pain it was to get hooked in when starting on a slope.

Go for one of the Eggbeater variants (I use the original naked ones with no platforms) and you don't have to worry about flipping them over to get hooked in. Plus they have a really elegant design that is highly crud resistant and low wear. I've had to replace the bearings in mine, and it was a ridiculously easy job.

My wife used to run an SPD-style pedal and they were just too awkward for her to use comfortably. Now she's on a set of Crank Bros Mallet pedals, which are Eggbeaters with a big honkin' platform so it's easy to ride without clipping in. But it's now easier for her to get in and out, so she rides clipped in more than she did in the past. You can ride those in sneakers if you want (a total non-issue for me), and the naked Eggbeaters come with a plastic snap-in platform for that eventuality as well.

You can usually get a shoe/pedal combo at a good price from a place like Bike Nashbar.

Keith wrote: Go for one of the Eggbeater variants (I use the original naked ones with no platforms) and you don't have to worry about flipping them over to get hooked in. Plus they have a really elegant design that is highly crud resistant and low wear. I've had to replace the bearings in mine, and it was a ridiculously easy job.

agreed, I use the Eggbeater SL's on my bike, I love em!

I bought a pair of Eastern BMX magnesium pedals & replaced the allen-head studs with 12mm ones.

I just never could get used to being clipped in.

Eggbeaters all the way. i've used them since they came out, and I like them so much I even run them on my road bike - and that way I only have to buy 1 pair of shoes.

I started on SPDs and the eggbeaters are lightyears ahead. I'm out when I want to be but not before, and I'm in when I want to be. My biggest problems with SPD was that dirt clogged them and you couldn't get clipped in - and then they'd release at the wrong time. Nothing like having a foot come loose as you bunny hop a fallen tree, let me tell ya.

If you have to have a platform, one of the Candy or Mallet editions are okay, but you can'y beat the originals.

There's a ton of pedals to choose from but it's hard to beat basic SPD's unless you have alignment issues in your leg/hip.

Shimano M-520's start around $55, and shoes with a nice stiff sole such as the Specialized Sport Mountain shoes start close to $90. I recommend having a shop set up the shoes and pedals over having a friend do it.

At the shop we talk to a lot of people who chose to have a friend set up their cleats and they had a bad experience and are scared of them as a result. We follow msrp at the shop on product, but we do set up for free when you buy the items from us. We set you up on the trainer in the store and let you practice clipping in and out. We make sure your system is functioning properly and that you are not going to cause yourself harm with improper alignment. Improper setup could cause unnecessary knee pain and difficulty disengaging the cleat from the pedal. We have never had anyone return a clipless system that we set up for them in the 17 years I have been there. When you are set up correctly and you know what to expect, you'll love 'em.

I use Speedplays personally, but that's because I have alignment issues that cause me pain in my knee unless I have more than 15 degrees of float for my left foot, most people don't need or want that much float.

Edited because I didn't have time to add the hotlinks at work.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_519147_-1_202287_10000_202530

$25 for pedals/cleats

go to the mountain bike shoe section and you've got like ten options for mountain shoes at $40. some with stiffer soles, some with more flexible and different styles.

i've been riding Time ATAC pedals since 1997 or so, and I love them. they have a ton of float, which my knees really appreciate. i'm still on that first set of pedals, but my second set of shoes and third set of cleats. pedals probably have 2,500 miles of off-road use on them and are still going strong.

ultraclyde wrote: Eggbeaters all the way. i've used them since they came out, and I like them so much I even run them on my road bike - and that way I only have to buy 1 pair of shoes. I started on SPDs and the eggbeaters are lightyears ahead. I'm out when I want to be but not before, and I'm in when I want to be. My biggest problems with SPD was that dirt clogged them and you couldn't get clipped in - and then they'd release at the wrong time. Nothing like having a foot come loose as you bunny hop a fallen tree, let me tell ya. If you have to have a platform, one of the Candy or Mallet editions are okay, but you can'y beat the originals.

+1. Pretty much exactly. I've used most clipless systems over the years: Shimano 737's, 747's, 636's, Onza, Time ATAC, Speedplay (road)... and now use Crank Borthers pedals on all bikes, although I still have platforms on the DJ/DS bike and will swap between platforms and Mallets on the DH bike depending on my mood.

That said, all of the current offerings are pretty good.

Luke covered everything in post 3 above. I use Shimano SPDs for now. Shoe wise, I went to my local Pearl Izumi outlet and picked up some discounted MTB shoes that look just like trail running shoes. The shoes are great for walking around even with the cleat in them.

After picking up the shoes, my local bike shop did the rest with the SPD install. I even have the plastic pedal surround in the unlikely case that I forget my shoes. The tightness of the clipping mechanism is adjustable so you wont have to worry about being too tight or loose.

Love my clipless pedals and now feel naked when I just pedal on flats.

i've used SPDs and welgo knock off SPDs over the years... last set was nashbars (welgo SPDs)... I never saw a reason to upgrade... not the lightest weight but hey they held me in nicely... TIME ATACs are where it's at for muddy conditions i've always read... and i've read enough of uber clyds (250lb+ guys) not killing em... the egg beaters I never tried... I saw first hand a few times sub 200# guys snapping em (was riding behind a guy on his down stroke it just snapped)... so I never tried em... did hear of others that didn't like the small platform...

anyway you WILL fall at some point with em (it took me 10 year of clipless before it happend... but it eventually did)...

I took about 6 years off of riding and when I got the new bike it came with large flats... when I got back to clipless I was amazed at the control and power I had with clipless... and having used them in the past I had virtually no learning curve... clipping in takes a little time to get used to at first but un clipping was never a prob... even when I hit a rock mound and flew 10" over the bars lol...

the biggest thing with clipless is the shoes you choose... buy the best most comfy shoes you can afford... and by comfy that doesn't mean comfy to walk around in... stiff is good.

i'd start with some SPDs of some flavor and the best shoes you can afford.

The biggest issue with the softer soled "trail" shoes is that you want as stiff a sole as possible when you are shrinking the size of the pedal platform, so that you don't end up with pressure points on the bottom of your feet. At first they seem fine, but then as they flex more and more your feet will suffer from hot spots and numbness. I recommend a stiff-soled shoe for the best long-term performance and comfort from the system.

I don't doubt that there have been some failures, but I was 270+ when I started thrashing around on eggbeaters and have never even bent one. But then, I ride XC style stuff, not downhill.

Agreed on comfy shoes with STIFF soles. I've had good luck with Pearl Izumi and Nike, if they still make cycling shoes. DON'T buy over the internet unless you can test fit the same shoes before you buy. you will regret it.

clipless pedals lock your feet to the pedals, add power and control to the ride, get started for about $50, and are sweet as hell. You are going to fall over at least 6 times, and once while a hot chick is looking.

you now know everything there is to know about them

/thread

oh, and on a serious note, I like these:

AXO Filter - Im not sure if theyre available anymore, but theyre a very stiff soled shoe that acts like a real shoe when you cant make it up the hill, or need to walk into the bathroom cuz powerbars sometimes makes you have to poop. Theyre decent enough to drive in too if you drive to the trailhead. Mine are about 4 years old now, and pretty well beat up. But since I only ride offroad maybe 5/6 times a year nowadays, they will last still another season or 3.

Put me in the Crank Brothers camp. I have Candy SLs or Eggbeaters on all my bikes. I like the Time ATACs too, rode those for years. The SPDs are a solid pedal too.

Shoe fit is very important. Try on whatever you buy, and don't be concerned about heel lift when you walk. It's a stiff sole, you will have heel lift. This is not a detriment when you're pedaling.

Even if you buy the pedals online, it's worth the extra cost to go to a shop, try on the shoes and have some discussions with somebody knowledgeable. You will be miserable with poor fitting shoes. I have nerve damage on the ball of my left foot, it would be numb after 30 minutes of riding. Switched to shoe with more volume in the toe box and got some orthotics, and I can ride all day now. Point is to spend the money on a pair of decent (doesn't need to be the best) quality shoes that fit you.

Why not start with old fashioned toe clips?

It sounds like you are making the next step, and toe clips can be used with any shoe. The entry price will be like $15 for a pair of toe clips, instead of $140 for the clipless pedals plus a pair of shoes and cleats.

Don't get me wrong, clipless are better. But the next logical step for you might be the toe clips to learn how to work with the more secure footing without the higher pricetag.

I used toe clips happily for nearly 25 years, including many thousands of miles.

They are definitely worth the investment, you have far more control and power with clipless. I prefer SPD's over Crank Bros' but that's just me.