I've done two decks in the last 2 years at different properties. I've been using butyl rubber joist tape under the decking because it seems like it could only help to keep moisture off of the framing, and may even protect the screw holes a little.
Anybody have any long term experience with it?
SV reX said:In reply to Dusterbd13 :
If there is no rot or sagging, there is no need to worry.
None seen above ground, but i haven't smacked it with a hammer or screwdriver yet to see how soft they are or aren't.
In reply to STM317 :
I haven't used it, but it seems like a good idea. Butyl tape has been a mainstay in commercial construction for decades.
I just had my deck rebuilt. New decking is composite, but they didn't have to replace any of the wood structure, except for one post which had rotted at the top. That structure was built in 1991, so I guess finding good lumber matters.
I have heard that a lot of lumber today is being grown faster than before, resulting in grain or "rings" being much less than desirable compared to the wood offerings of 50 years back
Which parts need replacement? 
Stueck0514 said:I have heard that a lot of lumber today is being grown faster than before, resulting in grain or "rings" being much less than desirable compared to the wood offerings of 50 years back
You're right. We, as a nation, decimated old, slow growth forests many years ago. The good side of that is sustainable forestry management is prevalent now and it's treated more like crop farming. The down side is much younger trees make up the bulk of the softwood lumber used in building, hence the growth ring count is much lower. From a lumber business standpoint, the best market is exporting. I could go on about it, as it's a sore spot for me, but it's perhaps a subject for another thread.
In reply to lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) :
Two stringers, couple rail posts, some decking that I've found so far.
A gratuitous photo of old growth, there are better examples locally, however that one is about 50 feet from my house and I just went outside and took the picture.
In reply to carbidetooth :
I think you and I share similar opinions on this, but I think it's debatable whether it has developed good forestry management practices.
We've allowed a for-profit industry to take over the job of forestry management. It is directly profitable for that industry to develop the fastest growth methods, which produce the weakest timber. It is also directly profitable for that industry if their products wear out more quickly so they need to be replaced more frequently.
I don't think that is a good cycle.
(but planned obsolescence seems to be part of every industry)
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
It doesn't matter which specific parts are rotting, the advice is the same. Replace it with good material, don't buy from Lowes or Home Depot, read the labels, and coat all cuts with preservative as you are reconstructing.
The only thing that would change that advice is if you replace a load bearing post that is in contact with the ground (or buried in it). Then you need full ground contact material, and a good approach to securing to the footing.
Yes, faster growth material (wide growth rings) will deteriorate more quickly. If you purchase #1 grade material, the grain is tighter. (but still not as tight as old growth)
lotusseven7 (Forum Supporter) said:Which parts need replacement?
The bean. Always get a new bean.
Y'all don't have them down there, but Menards has good stuff available special order, better than the local lumber yard. Even the good ol' CCA (with arsenic!). It'll outlive you. The website has a lot of good information.
Side note about treated lumber: lots of good info already. If you look at the lumber tags from earlier, you'll see the numbers 0.019 pcf and 0.15 pcf. That is basically the retention rate of the preservative, measured in pounds of chemical per cubic foot of wood. The really good stuff is 0.60, even up to 2.50 for saltwater immersion.
In reply to llysgennad :
Good word. I forgot to mention the PCF.
In reply to llysgennad :
Pretty sure the EPA restricted the manufacture of CCA treated products for residential use in 2003. I'm surprised to hear Menards still has some...
In reply to SV reX :
It's used for post-frame ag buildings a lot. Usually in stock in KC and other big stores, but it's easier to have it delivered.
I'm not saying anyone should use it for their deck. Definitely not. Nope.
In reply to llysgennad :
Can confirm need for ag building usage. The fastest post deterioration I've seen is not swamp-land porches or salt water pilings, but the barns posts in horse stables getting pissed on by (literal) racehorses.
I would also be cautious about power washing any wood deck. Moreso if it's painted/stained. Too much pressure will shred the soft wood fibers.
My house was built with a small 10x12 back deck in 2018. It's mostly covered but all decking boards are 2x6 treated from the local lumber yard. Fast forward a few years and the missus wanted a bigger deck. So we hired a contractor to construct the addition, which for the most part is great except the decking 2x6 boards. Pretty sure it was Lowe's due to supply issues. They split like crazy and in general shrank more than any lumber I've ever seen. I plan to replace them all in a year or two with higher quality like the original section as it's quite distinguishable between the two products. The feel and finish are so much better for the local stuff with the an obvious higher quality treatment. This thread has confirmed my suspicion of what was used.
This web location seems to have good info on how to choose treated wood. I didn't know CCA was still available. Not as rot resistant as creosote treated but better than most of what is out there.
2 x 8 x 12' Critical Structural CCA .60 Green Pressure Treated Lumber at Menards®
Nearest menards is 6 hours each way. After all the things I hear on here about them, I wonder if a trip would be worth it?
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Not as far as I am concerned.
You are not supposed to use the CCA for a residence, and you aren't even replacing any structural elements. There has to be a place near you that sells acceptable material.
When I redid the decking on my deck a long time ago, I made sure I bought KDAT lumber. I felt it was a higher quality, but worth the cost. KDAT= kiln dried after treatment. It is more stable and when you hammer a nail into it it doesn't squirt out water. Unfortunately, COVID killed the place I bought it from as well as a couple more lumber yards. The lumber was also the last CCA lumber they were getting in. Look for a legit lumberyard.
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