While continuing the cleanup effort in my shop I came across my Granddads woodstove. Decided to get it reassembled because, hey what else am I doing right now...
My maternal granddad died when I was three (1978), I dont really remember him but my mom says i take after him. Anyway, for several years near the end of his life he lived in a one room brick shack on the Flint river in south Georgia. His only source for heat and cooking was an old cast iron wood stove. About three years ago my uncle passed away and we had to clean out his hoardtastic property. I found all the pieces of Granddad's wood stove half buried in the yard. It's been laying in my shop since then.
All the pieces are there except the top block plate. One leg is mismatched though and isn't really the right mounting.
A little work with a wire brush and some 1/4" bolts got the tree original legs on.
Here's a close up of the two legs. The originals flange turns horizontal, the other one turns vertical
After staring at it a while I asked my self how Grandad would fix it? Well, he'd bodge it of course, so that's what I did. Its a little wobbly but it should be fine.
I still need to find a block off plate to go in the hole in the cook top. It's a 7" round. I may get a cheap 8" skillet for now.
My intention is to actually use it outside next winter. I'd love to throw up a little lean-to or something in the back yard to sit around the stove and cook on. Or I may set it up on the patio if I get the wood deck out and the concrete one poured.
That's a really cool find! East Coast Mojo has posted about cleaning and derusting antique cast iron cookware. Might be worth looking around for those posts.
I've done that with old cookware. I was considering taking this back to bare metal and polishing it out with wax stove black, replacing all the hardware and seals. The body disassembles into cast flat pieces but it will take some good sized plastic totes to soak it with rust remover.
But I kind of like the heavy rust patina.
Of course if I use it outdoors I can't decide if it's better to clean it and wax it, or just figure it will rust anyway and let it be rusty.
I'd remove the rust by electrolysis and put it back together. A plastic container big enough for the largest piece and a battery charger will do it.
Cool build. Need to borrow the metal detector from whoever just got one to find that piece....
So in terms of finishes for stoves that old- were they all just waxed? I remember getting a wood stove in the 70's and how much it stunk as the paint slowly burned in.
Have fun with it, and make some great memories. And make up some memories of your grandad.
Nice score! I have a little parlor stove on the patio for those evening drinks by the fire 
In reply to EastCoastMojo (Forum Supporter) :
Nice! What kind of finish is on it? Looks like it's holding up well.
In reply to ultraclyde (Forum Supporter) :
It appears to have been painted, but later this year I will probably apply some Stove Black to it. Any high temp stove paint should work fine, but I would recommend getting the rust off first. Here's a link to my electrolysis thread if you're interested. You would need to disassemble the stove again, but the process is super easy once you have the setup.
Thanks! After reading the entire thread I think I may attempt this.
The biggest obstacle to disassembling the stove is the long rods that clamp it top to bottom. There are four but one is rusted in half. I could use threaded rod cut to length but I think it would look out of place. I'd rather find smooth rod and thread just the ends, but that's gonna be a process.
I also noticed a crack in one of the side castings a couple inches long. It looks old, but I'm a little concerned about it. I may build a test fire in the stove before I disassemble it. If it blows up at least I havent done the work yet lol.
In reply to ultraclyde (Forum Supporter) :
Well, if you can source a big enough tub you can do the whole stove at once. My gut says your granddad would just use it as is.
I may have a spare stove eye around here someplace, let me see if I can find it and if it's the right size I'll let you know.
Edit: found it, mine measures 8" so it sounds like it won't fit. I would check the local flea markets once those open up again, there's always a couple folk at mine with random cast iron bits for sale. You'll want a lifter too.
Since it's a cool morning and corporate emails are slow I decided to go ahead and fire it up. Using a cheap Lodge pan instead of an eye.
And since it's working so well I made espresso. Took a little thought to find the right spot with enough heat.
Definitely needs a damper and chimney pipe, bit once its burning its nearly smoke free.
Looks like there are parts out there. I suggest putting some sort of grate on the floor of the box, even if it's 1/2" rebar welded ala tic-tac-toe style. The heat will burn through the bottom of the box. Fire brick is pretty inexpensive.
In reply to 914Driver :
Funny, the article you linked to specifically says no grate is needed once you build up an ash layer. The stove in the link is the exact same model i have too.
But yeah, i thought about it. We'll see what I come up with.
I find the fire burns or at least lights better with a grate.
Rons
Reader
4/14/20 1:07 p.m.
One could also bodge together a smoker attachment- you know just sayin'
Now that's an interesting point......
I think my next step is sewing a waterproof cover for it because I don't want to move it again right now. It's heavy!
I think I'll keep using it as is for now and hunt down an eye, flue, and chimney when things open up again.
A grill cover for a small size grill may work for you. I measured my stove and just searched on amazon until I found one the right size. 
You've inspired me to pull mine out and do something with it; the firebox needs to be rebuilt. Between the inner and outer walls is a gap that moves air up the skirt , between the walls and out the top. All the silver used to be nickel plated. (the front got bashed in by a teenage driver.) 
That's a really cool piece. Nickel plate may be my all time favorite finish.
I actually remembered I had a grill cover for a 22" kettle that someone gave me. Its TIGHT around the stove but long enough I cut a flap to stick out and cover the damper. Works fine for now.
As I continue cleanig up my shop I've discovered all those extra materials I saved from other projects and then hid from myself. Turns out i have enough raw materials here to do a LOT of projects!
Could you fill that hole with a floor drain cover? 7", cast iron.
Think I wouldn't even think about using a woodstove with a crack in the body in an enclosed place. There is a guy on the Harley lightweight forum I'm on who repairs cast iron cylinder fins by brazing. Don't know if that would work or not.
It looks like this store in Florida had a Ranger stove. The door looks identical.
https://palatka.americanlisted.com/32177/art-antiques/cast-iron-wood-stove_28515533.html
I don't think I'd use this thing in an enclosed space period, crack or not. The crack is about 3" long and looks ancient. In fact, it may just be a flaw in the casting. I can't tell that i goes all the way through, but...it's pretty rusty. It may have rusted shut lol.
I thought about picking uo something like the drain piece to use fo a little extra heat cooking but I need a solid one for general use to help control the airflow.
I have made a horrible mistake.
I showed my girlfriend this thread and ECM's rust removal thread. She is now scouring Craigslist and Facebook marketplace for similar items.
And I'm sure once the swap meets, antique stores, and flea markets open back up she will be looking there as well.
