hey construction guys!

[URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150610_172116_zps62icglgi.jpg.html][/URL]

So I want to cut a big ass hole in my foundation.

Foundation is block filled with concrete and rebar. I want to enlarge the current opening to where you see the black lines between the ladder and licence plates.

Im thinking that I will need to knock out the row of block above the current opening and build a header in there prior to renting a concrete saw. Because I was taught you always need a header above any opening.

So, before I do something stupid, tell me how you'd do it and why.

You only need a header if there is an unsupported load.

Can't tell from your pic.

There's no space above the existing opening for a header (lintel), so I am guessing there is no load.

But you need to do a little more homework.

What you were taught is useful, but not true.

It's kind of like telling someone they should always buy name brand tires. It's not a bad idea, and won't cause harm, but it may cost money when it is not needed.

BTW, if there is a row of block above the opening (which also doesn't show in your pic), it's probably not really block. It's more likely header blocks, which are filled with concrete and rebar horizontally ( but look like regular block when finished)

I wouldn't rent a concrete saw for that.

Ok, so what exactly do you need to help me make an informed, non stupid, non labor/money wasting plan?

And the current opening appears to have just been beat of the wall. Theres a 2x? Laying along the block between the modular house and the foundation.

I doubt it is load bearing.

Look at the ceiling framing. The joists. Ok, some guys call them "studs".

Check BOTH sides of the wall.

Are the joist parallel with the block wall in question, or perpendicular?

Is there anything that looks important sitting on the wall above that opening?

Not the flat 2X. That's called the sill. It's not load bearing.

Is there anything above sitting on the sill? Floor joists, posts, columns, studs, etc?

Or do you have basically the equivalent of 1 single floor joist sitting on top of the wall, running the same direction as the wall?

By "modular house", do you mean what most people would call a "mobile home", or is it more like standard construction that was built in a factory then craned into place?

Will do after church tonight. Ill also try to get better pictures of the area.

Thanks for being willing to help.

Is this a basement? Is that a door to the outside, or a crawl space under another part of the house?

Can you draw a basic sketch of the floorplan above (bird's eye view of the wall layout)?

It would probably mean more than a picture.

I'm assuming that you are extending the door opening downward, right? It looks to me, from the pic, that the existing door was installed when the foundation was built. If so, the load has already been calculated and the header is already in place. So no I wouldn't cut out the existing header.

Off the top of my head, it looks like the opening will be taller than a standard door. So I'd recommend framing the door opening with 'king studs' and 'jack studs' then make a header from 2x8's on edge. Placement of king studs, jack studs and header for a door opening:

The king and jack studs must be on solid support, such as a foundation slab etc. If they will touch a concrete slab at the bottom, use treated wood. You can add more header lumber to close any gap at the top, thus helping support that existing header.

In reply to Curmudgeon:

He said the black mark between the ladder and license plates.

That would make the opening wider. If there is a header, it would need to be recalculated.

He also said the current opening appears to have been beaten out of the wall. That would not be original construction.

Yeah, went back and looked at the pic again and I see the black mark. I'm not there to see exactly how the thing is built; I'd be careful about making it wider than the existing opening or offset from it.

It could still be done with the king stud/jack stud method, though. The block should be 8" thick, meaning the king and jack studs would be 2x8 instead of 2x4 and that adds a lot of compressive strength.

Just had another thought: What's on the other side of that door? If it's a crawl space and is backfilled to the wall up to the bottom of that existing door, I'd be real leery of digging anything out of there. You'd want to get a foundation expert to look it over.

In reply to Curmudgeon:

I agree.

But it's completely unnecessary if there is no load.

I'm a believer in overkill in situations like this. I'd rather drop ~$50 on extra wood now than discover, six months from now, that something is sagging.

I agree with Curmudgeon.. better to pay a little more now than a lot more later

I don't mind agreeing, but it still doesn't hurt to think a little bit.

If you never try to analyze the load, you have no idea what you are doing.

Who says there is a floor underneath to support king studs? Who says this will be a walk-through door? Maybe that wall in subterranean, and trying to cut a door through will just expose additional lateral loads.

He didn't say he wanted a door or a walk-through. He said he wanted a big ass hole.

Understanding the problem would be useful before trying to offer a solution.

AND...

If the wall above the door is masonry that extends a few more feet (where we can't see it), then a wood header supporting a masonry wall above is pretty much inappropriate.

I just figured out why I don't think it is load bearing.

The orientation of the Thermo Ply would seem to indicate that the joists run right to left in the picture.

AND, it doesn't look like there is a lintel above the door. If there is, it's only about 4" tall, or fully above the wall.

SVreX wrote: I just figured out why I don't think it is load bearing. The orientation of the Thermo Ply would seem to indicate that the joists run right to left in the picture. AND, it doesn't look like there is a lintel above the door. If there is, it's only about 4" tall, or fully above the wall.

no wonder you have so many posts, 75% of the thread is you

i want to know what's on the other side and see a pic of the door open before making a suggestion. but you can cut a pretty nice hole with a diamond turbo blade on a 4.5" grinder plus a hammer and good chisel.

I always use a shotgun for big shinyhappypeople.

so i had a noe long description and story typed out. and lost it when I switched over to photobucket. this is why I hate technology.

so, short version: modular home. house built in factory, brought to location on flatbed, hoisted onto foundation with crane. 2x6 floor joists, full truss roof, 12 inch thick center wall down the house where the two halves meet. house is a ranch style. supported all the way around with a cinderblock foundation. the end of the house with a basement, which is my shop, is dug out of the dirt and rock. at 17 feet, they hit bedrock and stopped the basement. paperwork I found in the house originally called for full basement. guess they didn't want to pay extra.

the floor joists run parallel to the wall I want to cut open.

the wall I want to cut open goes the the crawl space, which is roughly 6 foot tall. perfect parts storage, which is what ive been using it for. problem is getting in and out requires me to stand on the very top step of my ladder in the picture, and kind of wedge myself through the hole. the markings on the wall are roughly 6 inches above the dirt floor on the other side of the wall. so its a challenge. and after dad fell last week, I really am making an effort to make things safer and easier for me so I don't wind up with the same kind of accident.

as near as I can tell, there is no lintel. it goes joists, fine screen, thermoply, pressure treated 2x?, block. that's it.

I want to widen the opening, as well as make it not a drop off to floor on the other side. there will still be a small ledge in the opening, but I can deal with that.

pictures:

opening currently. looks like they cut some lines and beat it in with a sledge. theres still tons of busted up block all around in the crawl. [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150610_203556_zpsffmxkxmb.jpg.html][/URL]

picture of the crawl, which is craigslist worthy: [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150610_203641_zps0q0jorwa.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150610_203633_zpswmdf5e9a.jpg.html][/URL]

picture of the current above opening area: [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150610_203611_zps0ck3tptv.jpg.html][/URL]

overalls of the shop. the I beam is the center divide/support for the house. where the two halves meet. [URL=http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dusterbd13/media/20150603_171926_zpsnxmpavyw.jpg.html][/URL]

so, hope this clears things up so we can make the safe and economical plan.

Michael

oh,and I think my crawl pictures make me look like some kind of hoarder/pwt. im glad I trust you guys.

god, im looking forward to getting lights/shelves/organization in there....

you don't need a header. nor is that top row of block above the hole doing anything. cut it and be done.