mtn said:DrBoost said:I'm selling all my Magnepan speakers.....
full 5-channel setup. AND a pair of 3.3s
Details?
I have a pair of 3.3 that are in excellent condition. 9/10, maybe 9.5/10. I also have a full 5-channel MMG set up. MMG for the front mains, MMGC for the center, MMGW for the rear channels. These are as incredible in home theater as Magnepans are in stereo. I have the original boxes for all of the MMGs, not for the 3.3s.
z31maniac said:DrBoost said:I'm selling all my Magnepan speakers.....
full 5-channel setup. AND a pair of 3.3s
I probably don't want to drop the thousands it would cost for the speakers and shipping. But would you tell us why you're wanting to sell them?
I am moving and my new house won't have a room that would suit these. At the risk of sounding like a total duche, I would rather sell them to someone that will be able to hear them at their full potential than have then constrained. I'll build some speakers, or maybe pick up the Emotive Air 1 speakers I mentioned above.
I initially bought the MMGs, loved them, added the MMGC and MMGW because I really like home theater. Then somehow the 3.3s appeared in my theater.
I'll miss them. Gawd are they glorious. The thing about Magnepans is they NEVER get tiring to listen to. You know how you have a car that is so quiet, comfortable, and composed that you're cruising along at 100+MPH without even knowing? Same with these. Put some clean power through them and just enjoy. I was listening to some Dire Straits with some bourbon one night and I realized I had the volume up high (the door was rattling). I got the dB meter out. I was pushing 103 dB. The they sounded just as crisp, clean, and perfect as they do at a reasonable volume.
z31maniac said:I'm trying to figure out how to solve a few problems at once with our current living room setup. Neither of us like the current entertainment console, I want a larger TV, and I've killed 3 Polk subs in the last 6 years with loud movies and music.
Are there any good options to replace to my older Polk towers, with tower speakers that have built-in subs? It would give me much needed wall space for what we want to do.
Should I do a wireless sub behind us instead? But that basically puts it in our bar at the back of living room. We also have very tall ceilings in this part of this house.
Sorry, kind of stream on consciousness there, just hoping for some ideas.
Here's a link to a review of the emotiva Air 1 line. You could skip the towers and replace them with the bookshelf speakers to get them off the floor. I have really come to like Emotiva stuff recently.
In reply to DrBoost :
Your link isn't working.
Did you have them on a console, or have them mounted to a wall? I'm really considering all options because there is really no point in selling the house in the next 2 years given the crazy real estate prices, just means we'd have to buy high as well.
My better half has had another idea about that, but I'll start a different thread for that.
Oops, here's the link.
https://youtu.be/fQNY2GLDYaE
Mounted on the wall? The Maggies? I do have the rear mounted on the wall, ut typically Maggies want distance from the rear wall.
In reply to DrBoost :
Ope, sorry. Conflated two different posts.
Do any of you guys have any experience with SVS stuff?
Folded horn for the sub?
That will loosen up the wallpaper!
I was going to suggest looking into transmission line subs if you wanted decent output in a non-rectangular room that size. The purchasable monster sized subs are all hideously expensive(that monoprice Monolith 15 being the cheapest, and the SVS equivalent being over twice the price), and most home theater subs seem targeted at rooms smaller than what you are working with. Check out the Picowrecker sub design if you are open to building your own cabinet..
travellering said:I was going to suggest looking into transmission line subs if you wanted decent output in a non-rectangular room that size. The purchasable monster sized subs are all hideously expensive(that monoprice Monolith 15 being the cheapest, and the SVS equivalent being over twice the price), and most home theater subs seem targeted at rooms smaller than what you are working with. Check out the Picowrecker sub design if you are open to building your own cabinet..
I have exactly zero wood working tools and zero wood working experience. I barely have a decent set of tools for a car don't own after everything like that was stolen out of our garage last year.
Damn it, I'm in a real crossroads of how to go forward.
The comment above about "you want loud, move some air" is so true. There is a damn good reason that AC/DC doesn't use Bose speakers.
A unique solution I saw years and years ago in college land was basically 4x downfiring 18s in a coffee table, each sub off a 1500 watt Crown amp (the good ol days, pre digital), weighted down with a whole pile of sand above the subs in a false bottom and a marble top. It wailed. It was like you were front row Motorhead, and it would drop low, being 18s. Thats probably a bit out of the budget and Wife Acceptance Factor, but holy crap it was cool. You knew you made it when the neighbors would come over asking you to turn it down since it was knocking things off the wall.
My system nowadays is pretty simple. Old-ass Sony ES (remember those) receiver, some decent USA made speakers (Phase Technologies) and a Chase Home Theater (also out of business) 18 with a 1000 watt amp, and HSU 12" midrange. Sadly its all now upstairs in the "we watch youtube videos" TV and never gets much of a workout.
travellering said:Check out the Picowrecker sub design if you are open to building your own cabinet..
I built one. That sub is INCREDIBLE!!! One 10" and a measly 150 watts and it rattles the doors in their frames!
if you're interested, I'd sell you mine and the amp that powers it.
Here's the sub before putting the side panel on. 
In reply to DrBoost :
Damn! I know those transmission cabinets SLAM, but doesn't save me any room on the wall. :)
In reply to z31maniac :
Yeah, small it aint.
to be a nerd, it's not a transmission line, but a close cousin. It's a tapped horn
the driver is in the mouth and the throat of the horn. You get a 10 dB bump by the design. That's how a 150 watt 10" sub can keep up with the maggies that are being fed more than twice that much power.
There is a tapped horn design I want at the theater. It's the size of a refrigerator, but it puts out 138 db between 17-23hz with 150W from a single cheap 18".
If I have a thunder SFX, I want people to FEEL it. I would straight up slide that thing under the seating risers, but I'm afraid the number of upholstered seats that would need urine extraction might not be cool.
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:There is a tapped horn design I want at the theater. It's the size of a refrigerator, but it puts out 138 db between 17-23hz with 150W from a single cheap 18".
Got a link to the plans? My new home theater design is in rattling around my head and there might be room for something like this...
In reply to Honsch :
I went back to my original post in an audio forum in 2016, but the link is broken.
If you google 17hz tapped horn you'll get a ton of results though. One of them I was looking at was called a "lil wrecker."
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
The pico wrecker is based on the lil wrecker. The pico used a 10" instead of the larger driver. Tapped horns and transmission lines are amazing.
z31maniac said:Do any of you guys have any experience with SVS stuff?
SVS subs are pretty insane for what you get. The only complaints I've ever heard against them were the same complaints towards most low-distortion subwoofers; they don't "sound loud". They're definitely pressurizing the room though! I'm usually able to tell when a subwoofer is playing, but with the SVS stuff they're so seamless (especially with the DSP models).
If you are looking for something great this may help you
In reply to z31maniac :
Did you ever get your sub issues sorted out? What keeps blowing up with the sub, the speaker or the amp? That Polk Audio PSW12 is only rated at 100 wpc. With the size of that wall, it's obvious that you need a 96" tv hanging on it.
Mount the bottom of the tv so that it is higher than the tower speakers and get a narrower amp rack table to free up more floor space under the tv so that you can get a bigger or more subs at that location. I bought my son's car sub which consists of 2 Alpine Type R 10" 300 wpc subwoofers in the tiny twin 1 cu. ft. car sealed enclosure that where in his car pushed by a 150 wpc stereo audio amp. I quit turning up the volume at 112 dB.
I want to get a new Crown XLS1002 2-Channel 350W Power Amplifier with Onboard DSP $385 in case I want to push the Alpines to their limits Two Alpine R-W10D2 R-Series 10-Inch Dual 2 Ohm Subwoofers bundle $450. The linked components are configured at 4 ohm per channel; each Alpine 2 ohm dual voice coil is wired in series for a total of 4 ohms and the Crown amps rated power is stable at 4 ohms.
JL Audio would be another car sub to look at but I don't know anything about them.
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