There is a very rough local Miata to me that I'm considering buying to part out. This is one of the big ticket items on the car.
Any idea of the value? It's a complete running kit.
There is a very rough local Miata to me that I'm considering buying to part out. This is one of the big ticket items on the car.
Any idea of the value? It's a complete running kit.
I'd say you could probably get $1000 - $1500 out of it if you pushed it hard on ClubRoadster or something. I heard they loved Powercards.
Hmmm, depending on the rest of the condition of the car and how much I can lowball him, that may be enough to make it feasible to buy the car.
But out of curiousity, what would it take to make the S/C work on the 1.6?
ALso how can I tell if it has a Torsen?
z31maniac wrote: Hmmm, depending on the rest of the condition of the car and how much I can lowball him, that may be enough to make it feasible to buy the car. But out of curiousity, what would it take to make the S/C work on the 1.6?![]()
A thirst for a lot of punishment without much payoff.
In reply to z31maniac:
Only real way to tell is pop the diff cover open........I'd ask for reciepts or install pictures, otherwise, it doesn't have one.
Depends on what comes with it - I just paid $1500 shipped for an MP45 JR kit that also came with the MSD ignition retard box and an FM Voodoo box. This might be at the high end but I bought it from a Miata/race shop and not a private individual.
About the conversion to 1.6 - you used to be able to buy the appropriate brackets from Moss. I'm not sure you can anymore as I'm pretty sure the kit is NLA. If the car has a Powercard, you'll probably need a different one unless your 1.6 is a 1993 CA model with sequential injection. If it has an MSD, that can be transferred no problem.
yamaha wrote: In reply to z31maniac: Only real way to tell is pop the diff cover open........I'd ask for reciepts or install pictures, otherwise, it doesn't have one.![]()
I thouhght there was something with the CV's that would tell you if it was a Torsen or not.
It's "supposedly" an M edition car.
I'm really not THAT interested in the S/C, my eventual plan is a built 1.8 VVT engine.
z31maniac wrote:yamaha wrote: In reply to z31maniac: Only real way to tell is pop the diff cover open........I'd ask for reciepts or install pictures, otherwise, it doesn't have one.I thouhght there was something with the CV's that would tell you if it was a Torsen or not. It's "supposedly" an M edition car. I'm really not THAT interested in the S/C, my eventual plan is a built 1.8 VVT engine.![]()
There's a whole write up on how to tell if a car has Torsen or not in the Miata FAQs or something. It seems to revolve around solar positioning and how many squirrels gave birth that day.
If it has leather and a stick, it'll have a Torsen.
The CV flanges will help you spot a 1990-93 VLSD, but the Torsens look the same from outside.
Yikes, well.......it was even rougher in person than it was in pictures. It did run pretty well though.
I offered the kid $1750 (he was asking $3k), I figured at that price I could sell the S/C for $900-1000, engine/trans for $500, ricer wheels with decent tires for $350-400.......at that point I'd have a free hard top.
But even the hardtop was rough and there was some stuff in the back that looked like it was broken? Both sides looked like this, what's the deal?
I couldn't tell the brand of the roll bar, so didn't figure that in to what I would offer him, figure it would be another $200ish maybe, but the leather seats were murdered and the only good panels left were the hood and driver side door.
Even the hardtop looked like someone had dragged a steel toothed take across it, HARD.
That's the little bracket that keeps the softtop from bouncing up when the hardtop is in place. I'm not sure how you'd break it! You could probably replicate it in fiberglass or just cut it off pretty.
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