So driving to work I kept hearing a thumping noise from rear end. 1/2 mile later jeep comes to a stop with bad trans. I replaced the trans and take it for a test drive still hearing thud from rear. Almost like something binding. No whines and the thuds are not constant. I can't make it thud even happens at standard speed in flat land. It only happens while moving. Could it be the rear end? Go same time as the trans??
Is it 2 or 4WD? If 4WD, did you take a look in the transfer case when you swapped the trans?
4wd. Transfer case looked good no excess play, chain looked good.
OK. I lost a NP231 once from low fluid. The seal leaked when driving. Never left a puddle in the driveway.
Which rear is in it, and does it have a limited slip?
Have you put the rear up on jack stands and put it in gear to see if it makes the nose?
How do you check level in transfer case? Yes had it on stand and never heard noise but also in a 2 mike drive only heard it once. It's a Chrysler rear end
If I remember correctly you need to pull the fill plug to check the level.
I've seen the bigger Chrysler 9 1/4 limited slips fail and causing some carnage. I think all the 8 1/4 limited slips use a clutch pack setup not a cone setup. When the clutches fail it should just make the slip a while lot less limited. I've had cone limited slips do all other kinds of binding when they failed.
I just need it to go 30 miles. I was thinking of putting the front drive shaft back in and taking out the rear drive shaft but won't be able to do that till after work.
If the transfercase started to slip would it effect the rear wheels?
Sorry I had to call it a night last night. I'll jump back in now. Maybe some of the others will see the post too.
Is it the part time 4WD Command-Trac transfer case (NP231) or the Select-Trac (NP242) with the full time setting?
If the shifter on the transfer case isn't adjusted properly it could be trying to partially engage the front. That can cause some binding-like issues.
Humor me.
Disconnect the t-case linkage and manually shift into 2WD and report back after a drive.
Those transmissions rarely go out, the shifter bushings do. The shifter bushings could be, kinda toggling between 2WD and 4WD HI.
Maybe I missed it, but could you describe when/how the clunk happens? Do you feel it or hear it? Other symptoms associated (i.e. hard steering, pull to one side or the other, anal seepage, hesitation/rough running)?
Rob_Mopar wrote: Sorry I had to call it a night last night. I'll jump back in now. Maybe some of the others will see the post too. Is it the part time 4WD Command-Trac transfer case (NP231) or the Select-Trac (NP242) with the full time setting? If the shifter on the transfer case isn't adjusted properly it could be trying to partially engage the front. That can cause some binding-like issues.
The 231 is part-time only, the 242 has a full-time setting (available on some cherokees), the 249 was full-time and available on Grand Cherokees, but some were swapped into XJ's.
It's a 242. Clunking happens randomly. But what I noticed this morning was a grinding sound that last 2 seconds where I had no power. I tried putting it in 4 high and had nothing but grinding (from stop) then 4 part time with same result. When I put it back to 2wd had a bad clunk that jolted the whole car but was back in 2wd. Still having the random clunk as driving. The fluid is pretty bad looking and was a little low I topped it off.
GrantMLS wrote: It's a 242. Clunking happens randomly. But what I noticed this morning was a grinding sound that last 2 seconds where I had no power. I tried putting it in 4 high and had nothing but grinding (from stop) then 4 part time with same result. When I put it back to 2wd had a bad clunk that jolted the whole car but was back in 2wd. Still having the random clunk as driving. The fluid is pretty bad looking and was a little low I topped it off.
It sounds like a t-case issue. That popping could be the chain jumping.
If I get a 231 can it just be swapped in as a quick temp fix till I get a 242? Don't care bout 4wd just need it drivable
A 231 should be easier to find. I think it's a direct swap. It's been a while since I looked into it. One of the guys here will know. If you go this route, just run it with the 231. Don't worry about finding/rebuilding a 242.
If you can find one in a yard or somebody parting out an XJ, grab the transfer case linkage too.
I think the 231s actually tend to last longer as well. Mainly because the option isn't really there to run it in 4wd all the time. We've had ours for a year and a half, it's been in 4wd maybe 4 times.
I'm guessing the t-case isn't seeing much stress. 
GrantMLS wrote: If I get a 231 can it just be swapped in as a quick temp fix till I get a 242? Don't care bout 4wd just need it drivable
I stink the linkage will have to be swapped, that's about it. I think the light will still work properly. Just grab the case, linkage and bezel and you should be good to go. And yeah, I would just leave it as the 231.
Ok thanks just got a 231 just gotta make it 10 more miles to swap it in!
Let us know how it goes for sure.
Got it installed, went for a 5 mile drive and so far smooth as can be. Now it has to get me 30 miles to my Audi to see why it won't start!
Do you work really fast? Or is a t-case on an XJ not a big deal?
1.5 hr. very easy to work on. Dont even need to jack it up
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