I figure I'll take a couple impacts, a full set of metric sockets and wrenches, and a breaker bar. What else am I going to need to get the heads off?
I figure I'll take a couple impacts, a full set of metric sockets and wrenches, and a breaker bar. What else am I going to need to get the heads off?
Should be pretty straight forward.
The quick connect fittings on the fuel rail are the only thing I can think of off hand that may catch you off guard. You can make a tool to deal with those from a 20oz soda bottle cap, or just leave the fuel lines attached to the rail. Expect to break exhaust studs. Some of the inner head bolts can be tough to find if the motor is really sludged up.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Cause I don't have a cordless Sawzall?
Do the studs break off flush in the head, or at the flange?
Yes
Don't worry about it, they're easy enough to deal with on the bench either way. Weld a nut on there and they'll zip right out, the heat helps break them free. Just remember to chase the threads afterwards.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
You need one. I remember the first time I used one in the junkyard. It saved me 30 minutes in 60 seconds.
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
Well, other than the lines where else might it be a help in this particular instance?
Bolt snaps seem random some break flush some break at the bolt head. I would plan on having to pull the manifolds possibly. A few dental picks are good to take for electrical connections. Also what casting numbers are you searching for?
In reply to OneSickGNX :
I know there are some 706 heads at the local yard. They'll do for what I need.
Just try to avoid the castech castings then, I don’t think 862 heads had as many problems and should be equally easy to find.
In reply to Mr_Asa :
I'd cut the fuel lines and exhaust after the manifolds. Wiring also. Then once I get the head out I can remove the manifolds much easier. If I need more room to get in there the core support can be cut away easy enough.
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