Learn me south florida

In reply to STM317 :

Appreciate it.  The job is in Fort Lauderdale area. 

STM317 said:

I've never been a resident, but I've spent a fair amount of time in South Florida visiting family. It seems to me that there are subtle differences between Atlantic Coast and Gulf Coast. My family on the Atlantic side is comprised of quite a few Yankees/gold chains/ "fuhgedaboutit" types, and that seems to be fairly normal for the area. My family on the Gulf coast is more typical relaxed, Midwestern types, and that's what I've seen a lot more of on the west side of the state.

I like the beaches on the Gulf coast better, and there's a bit less of a rushed, hustle & bustle feeling. YMMV, and if the job is on the Atlantic side, then living on the Gulf coast probably isn't an option anyway. Just hadn't seen where you were looking so thought I'd bring it up.

This has been my experience as well.  My grandparents were PA farmers.  They did the Miami thing for about 8 years.  I think they chose that area because it's just what you do and they didn't have enough money for Naples.  Then moved to Ruskin/Tampa/St Pete.  It's a whole different world on the gulf side.  Tomato farms, citrus groves, laid back people, rural areas.  And Duff's restaurants (which have sadly all closed) 

The more money you have the nicer is it. Otherwise, it's a crowded sauna with bugs.

Its terrible here . This pic was taken one week before Thanksgiving in 2010. I had just moved after being stationed in Nebraska for 8 years. I was in shock to be standing on a beach, in a t-shirt, shorts and sandals, in November. 

Some observations:

Taxes seem about average. No state income tax is nice. Gas is about average, if not lower. Utilities seem higher as you run the A/C about 9 months out of the year. Car insurance is stupid expensive. Housing isn't bad but it very area dependent. If its in an expensive area that was built up, you'll see a trailer house next to a McMansion, which is funny. Traffic can be very bad in places. My commute is 27 miles each way because its waaaaay cheaper to live in the suburbs. The "winter" brings all the snowbirds and seasonal migrating cotton tops. You can tell its that time of year when the roads are clogged with beige Toyotas and Buicks, going 10 MPH under the limit, in the left lane, with the left signal on, running out of state plates.

There is lots of outdoor recreation. Most of it requires a boat. There is some great kayaking though. Lots of hiking trails but no mountains.

Thats all I can think of at the moment. Its really not as bad as some people think it is down here. Yes, Florida man exists and the state politics are uhhh, yeah, I'm not getting into that. But besides the bugs, oppressive humidity and occasional hurricane, its really not a bad place to call home.

STM317 said:

I've never been a resident, but I've spent a fair amount of time in South Florida visiting family. It seems to me that there are subtle differences between Atlantic Coast and Gulf Coast. My family on the Atlantic side is comprised of quite a few Yankees/gold chains/ "fuhgedaboutit" types, and that seems to be fairly normal for the area. My family on the Gulf coast is more typical relaxed, Midwestern types, and that's what I've seen a lot more of on the west side of the state.

I like the beaches on the Gulf coast better, and there's a bit less of a rushed, hustle & bustle feeling. YMMV, and if the job is on the Atlantic side, then living on the Gulf coast probably isn't an option anyway. Just hadn't seen where you were looking so thought I'd bring it up.

This is also a decent review of the coasts at least from about, I dunno, I-4 on down south?

Does the company name start with a "C"? If so you are looking at a tough commute. 

I will write a few things later from my point of view. 

How old are your kids? 

Also mtn biking is fine here, unless you are into downhill. 

I usually go to Jonathan Dickinson park as I really like their trails and rather drive north than south, but Markham Park is top notch. 

In reply to Slippery (Forum Supporter) :

yup.

6, 9 and 11.

Slippery (Forum Supporter) said:

Also mtn biking is fine here, unless you are into downhill. 
 

I live in minnesota.  There are hills but no real west coast downhill stuff.  

Mr_Asa said:

Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:

I never lived there, but spent a lot of time there since my grandparents retired to that area.

I went back a few years ago to be certain how much I hated it.  Ok, hate is a strong word.  Not my style.  I grew up idolizing the Miami Vice series and I had these glamorous ideas of the hot cars, hot women, beach life, etc.  It is pretty much the complete opposite.  First, the crime has cleaned up a ton.  Coastal Dade used to be a bit of a murder hole, but not really anymore.

What I'm about to say is not denigrating anyone, I'm just trying to not be wordy so I'm cutting to the chase.  It's pretty heavily populated with old, upper east side Manhattan rich folks who are the kind of people who think they deserve more than the rest of the world, but they refuse to tip.  There are entire malls down there that have been abandoned that they have turned into antique malls.  They have valet parking in a parking lot that has weeds growing through the pavement, and the malls are full of things that I guess some people call antiques.  I call it old junk.  Of course, I'm from PA where an antique means a hand-hammered copper pot from 1790.  Down there "antique" means bakelite and a brass torchiere lamp from 1984.  I got tired of seeing 80 year old women with more makeup than Tammy Fay Baker in a Jogging suit and a walker argue with a Cuban antique dealer to negotiate $1 off an "antique" chinese clock that looks like a cat waving his paw because "hey, Saul, don't you think Bernice would like this" in a voice that sounds like two packs a day have been in and out of those lungs since 1932.

I won't really comment on large aquatic lizards since I think they're cool.  I will say that (also having lived in New Orleans) the hurricane fever is a bit more pronounced in FL.  In New Orleans, you might stay or leave, but if you go, you have about 15 major highways and 180 degrees of direction you can choose.  In FL, you have the turnpike or I-95, and you have no choice but north.  I'm not panicked about hurricanes.  I almost stayed in New-O for Katrina, but I'm glad I left.  My elevation was 3.  Three feet.  New Orleans has people who have lived through hundreds of hurricanes and they are salty bastards.  "A little breeze and some rain," they'll say.  Florida is pretty heavily populated with older, northern transplants who seem to feel the need to evacuate when a thunderstorm  rolls in.

I really do love what the town tries to be.  It just lacked a certain cohesive community feeling.  Rich old white people who don't seem to mix and mingle with the Cuban and Puerto Rican heritage in the area.

This mirrors pretty much all of my feelings and highlights why I wont go further south than I am except on holiday. 

Damn Yankees and F.O.P.s

Not all of us northerners are terrible Floridians. Fwiw I disliked the new York transplants before I moved. 

Mndsm said:

Not all of us northerners are terrible Floridians. Fwiw I disliked the new York transplants before I moved. 

Truth.

In reply to Mndsm :

Oh I know.  There are a couple transplants i know from the Big Apple that make quite respectable FloridaMans.  Its always the squeaky wheel, though.

Fueled by Caffeine said:

In reply to Slippery (Forum Supporter) :

yup.

6, 9 and 11.

I moved down to south Florida 25 years ago. We moved to Boca Raton specifically. 

South Florida, like most places has its nice areas and ugly ones. Same with the people. The biggest problem, in my opinion, is that there is a lot of transient people. People that come and go and never set real roots. 

I dont know a lot of details about what you are used to now or how expensive houses are up in Mn, but If I was in your shoes, given the area that you would be working and the ages of your kids, I would concentrate at looking for houses in these 3 areas:

- Boca Raton. Lets say west of I-95 and between Palmetto Park Rd. and Clint Moore. That will put you in excellent schools. 
- Weston. 
- Parkland. 

These three areas should put you in a 30' commute and your kids in excellent schools. Boca and Parkland would place you minutes from excellent beaches, Weston is further west and not so good for beach access. Boat ramps are everywhere, but you will probably pay to store a boat ... most of the areas I gave you have HOAs which are widespread down here. 

I would try and concentrate in these school districts:

Yes, it is THE Marjorie Stoneman. 

Do you mind sharing a budget you would be comfortable when it comes to a house? Or feel free to email me. 

I don't know how this will come across, but the above locations you can probably find things in the $450-500k range. Maybe I am way out of range, but if so let me know and I will be able to suggest different locations or ideas. 

Home insurance will be in the $4-5k range. The further west you go, the cheaper it is. Deffinitely cheaper west of I-95 and make sure its not a flood zone. 

Car insurance, budget $120/month for a newish car full cover, $500 deductible and 100/300k liability. 

Home taxes, plan on paying around 2% of purchase value. The first year it will be cheaper as you carry over the valuation based on the previous owner's purchase price. If the previous owner bought the house in the early 2000s the new taxes can shock you. 

Airports:

Ft Lauderdale - FLL -Easiest access, cheap and crowded. 
Palm Beach - PBI - Small, more expensive. You can go through TSA in 5' tops. I use it as much as possible. 
Miami - MIA - Only use it as a last resort or flying overseas. I use it once or twice a year and get there via TriRail. TriRail is safe, clean and has wifi. 


Not sure what else would be useful but ask away and I will try to answer as best as I can.

Hope this helps. 

Great info by Slippery! I'll add that if you intend on keeping your old home you won't qualify for "homestead" as far as property tax goes. The tax is roughly double if you don't get the homestead deduction. I learned the hard way owning my house in CT and a house in FL for several years.

I've never lived in FL, but to expand on Slippery's comment of "Make sure it's not a flood zone"...

As a transplanted northerner to the gulf coast, I don't think most of us really have a concept of "torrential rainfall". Oh sure, we think we do. We don't. Fortunately my wife lived down here previously & was able to impart that advice before we moved. 

The best example I can give is a couple years ago we had a storm one on morning. On the main 5-lane street through town, which isn't in a low-lying area, and is only 100' yards from the gulf, there was over a foot of water flooding it for several blocks after about a 20-minute storm. 
 

I'm no engineer, but my gut feeling is because there's so little elevation from sea-level(the highest spot here is about 22'-23') there is neither enough vertical distance to allow that much water to drain quickly, nor the volume in the sewers to hold it while it drains slowly. 

I'm more familiar with the gulf side but have a friend who started a family there and recently left for greener pastures. The area seemed very focused on appearances and I think he never felt like he was getting ahead partially thanks to the "keeping up with the jones" aspect. Have also heard it's a tough place to raise a kid, but that is probably dependent on more local issues like schools, etc. Good luck!

I was born in Stuart and grew upmin Ft Pierce. Unless you're ON the the water, or in a sleepy central FL town, I just don't see the point in living in FL. That said, temps over 90 literally put me into a rage, so maybe it's a "me" problem.

Definitely love where I live now (North Georgia.) Almost zero crime, GREAT public school 5 miles away, people are *generally* polite and respectful. Great place to raise kids IMO.

I need to visit a friend in Ft. Pierce who's batlling cancer, and am seriously dreading going there.

My shop is in Blue Ridge. Nearly half of my customers are folks from FL "by way of...." who moved "halfway back" because of the heat, crime, hurricanes, etc.

My $.02 YMMV

Best of luck!!!

Thanks guys. We shall see where this goes.  

Born and raised in FLL through college.  My parents still live there, I moved about an hour north 20yrs ago.

The Tri-County Metro is too much for me.  Both the Caribbean / 3rd world influx from the south, and the NY/NJ influx from the north, are constant.  It is a giant expanse of suburbia.  The predominant cultural trait is conspicuous consumption.

I am a boating addict, and the boating in Broward and most of Dade is not great.  Keys, Palm Beach north, and West Coast are much better for that.  Alligators are a non-issue: just assume if you are in fresh water (or brackish), they are too, and will ignore you.

There are some nice areas and neighborhoods.  Pick and choose for schools.  I wouldn't choose to move back, but would if I had to for work.  I much prefer the next size smaller towns outside of the Metro...Stuart is like Ft. Lauderdale from 50-70yrs ago.  With FLL as a base, there are a lot of other parts of FL to explore and enjoy on weekends.

Happy to provide more info, PM or email.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/learn-me-south-florida/110144/page1/

at least I'm consistent. OP too. 

In reply to MattGent :

funny.. I forogt about about that.  That's when DHL wanted me for a strategy position and then all of a sudden backed out due to some candidate from Germany entering the ring..

Boss calls me today.  You interested in leading a site around Miami?  
 

So weird. 

poopshovel again said:

I was born in Stuart and grew upmin Ft Pierce. Unless you're ON the the water, or in a sleepy central FL town, I just don't see the point in living in FL. That said, temps over 90 literally put me into a rage, so maybe it's a "me" problem.

Definitely love where I live now (North Georgia.) Almost zero crime, GREAT public school 5 miles away, people are *generally* polite and respectful. Great place to raise kids IMO.

I need to visit a friend in Ft. Pierce who's batlling cancer, and am seriously dreading going there.

My shop is in Blue Ridge. Nearly half of my customers are folks from FL "by way of...." who moved "halfway back" because of the heat, crime, hurricanes, etc.

My $.02 YMMV

Best of luck!!!

You grew up in ft. Peirce? That explains so much. 

Fueled by Caffeine said:

Boss calls me today.  You interested in leading a site around Miami?  
 

So weird. 

That's a tough one. I guess you can always commute from Weston depending on where in Dade this place is. 

In reply to Slippery (Forum Supporter) :

I think the site is miramar or around fll.