Learn Me Studio Lighting

Well, as the topic states, I need to learn about studio lighting (for still photography).

I'm taking more and more pictures for both magazines (as well as most of the school sports teams), and as I grow as a photographer I'm becoming more and more comfortable with artificial lighting. I'm also beginning to realize that when properly used, artificial light can help almost any picture.

I've been getting by with a few speed lights and Nikon's rudimentary slave system, but I'm tired of it all. I need more lights, and brighter lights, hopefully without paying $500 (or more ) per light head. I'm also tired of waiting forever for speed lights to recycle, and I'd like to be able to easily attach umbrellas/soft boxes/etc.

I need at least 3 lights capable of lighting a car or two at night.

So, I've realized that proper studio strobes are the logical choice. I did some research, and I think I've got a pretty good idea of what all the terms/designs are.

Monolights are single units with one flash head and one power pack connected as a unit, correct? And the competing format is one central power pack with a few flash heads connected to it.

I've used monolights before, but never a central power pack system. However, I don't really like monolights. They teeter on top of tall stands, and if you need a lot of heads they are expensive, because you're essentially buying a new power pack for every head. I like the idea of one central power pack where you can adjust output, as well as the relative low cost to add additional heads. For these reasons, I've basically ruled out monolights and decided on a power pack/ flash head system.

So, because I'm buying used, and have only a $300-$500 price range, I'm looking at used light kits on eBay. The big names seem to be Novatron, Speedotron, and Profoto.

Novatron seems to be the cheapest, besides the chinese crap on there, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. I like that the heads use normal light bulbs for modeling lights, and new flash tubes seem to be fairly inexpensive. However, as far as I can tell the reflectors don't come off, and I've heard some not-too-good things about Novatron build quality.

Profotos are the most expensive, but also have the best reputation. Unfortunately, their price puts them far out of my budget, so I'm not really considering them.

Speedotrons seem to be the happy medium. Fairly plentiful, fairly cheap, but decent quality. There also seems to be a wide range of accessories for them. I think I'm going to go after a set of these.

So, what does the peanut gallery think? I know you read a lot of my rambling only to find I've already reached a conclusion, but I thought it would be a good idea to run my ideas by the smart crowd on here before I made any moves. Is there a magical path I've completely missed? Please tell me!

In reply to Tom Suddard:

Tom, "bounce lighting" is your friend. Even small lights can illuminate a large area if your reflectors are shiny enough. Don't point any lights at your target, point them at the reflectors (usually, cheaper than high intensity bulbs). Take some time to adjust the reflectors, and you'll be OK. Pouring a bunch of light directly into a shot will give you "redeye" if you're shooting people, or too many reflections if you're shooting something as shiny as a well-waxed car. It takes some time to set it up..you have to set up the lights beforehand. You can't get the shot you want in an instant...you have to get enough light into the scene to take a good one. If you've done enough work to get the artificial light right, using a flash will just berkely things up.

http://www.photography.com/articles/taking-photos/bounce-lighting/

Many moons ago, I completed a class in Studio Lighting on my way to a Career Studies Certificate in Photography. With that and $5., I can walk into any Starbucks and buy a cup of coffee.

Browsing through the B & H catalog, I see that lighting has changed a lot in the years since, along with virtually every other aspect of photography. The only advice I feel qualified to give is pretty standard.

If you plan to stick with it, get the best stuff you can afford. The cheap stuff will fall apart. Hardware will break. When you need the equipment to perform, it will choose that moment to berkeley up.

Oh, and don't forget to budget for a good lightmeter/flashmeter.

In a previous life I owned a photography studio. I personally like the monolights, but there are big differences. You can get smaller, lighter units. My studio system however was a Norman with a central pack, and my travel units consisted of a monolight system, or a backup Novatron system. The Novatron worked just fine, in fact I still have it 20 years later, and they are only on their second set of flash tubes. The modeling lights last much shorter however as they are on pretty much when the lights are on, unless you switch them off.

The one thing you do want no matter what system is some adjustability. You need to get one with a power control as you do not want all the power the same for the most part. You don't want the same f-stop on the background that you do for the main light, nor do you want the same f-stop with the fills either. Adjusting the light is much friendlier than moving them.

You can also go with a constant source light but they are hotter. You do get a better feel for the final image though and they are easier to "light" as a result. Most subjects don't care for them though due to the heat. But you also don't need a hand held flash meter.

Don't forget that reflectors can also be your friend. I always had aluminum foil with me no matter what, you never know when you might need another reflector and it was a cheap and easy source. The lighting can be a bit harsh though. Also, a good softbox is a much have in my opinion too.

Good luck!

Have you checked out the Strobist web site and group on Flickr? Strobist is kinda the GRM of the photography world. Those people will be a big help if you're budget minded. Even if you're stepping up to a "real" studio system there are a gazillion amazing DIY ideas on there.

FWIW, if you don't like waiting for small lights to recharge, add a DIY external battery pack.

Tom Suddard wrote: So, because I'm buying used, and have only a $300-$500 price range, I'm looking at used light kits on eBay.

Craigslist may be better for this kind of stuff. eBay is kinda played. Buying local means you can get a quick tutorial from the PO while you evaluate the condition of the gear.

I belong to another site that has a photography forum. Very GRM stuff. Lots of light painting and a ton of home built devices. I'll PM you the site because I'd rather not mention it here.

I am currently a professional photographer so you may just be able to throw my advice out the window...but here goes. If you are trying to go for 3-5 hundred bucks check out the Alien bees lights. They are made by Paul C. Buff who also make White Lightning. You might be able to find 2 or 3 on ebay or craigslist for that price. Think also about investing in good heavy light stands. If you are going to be photographing outside you don't want the wind blowing them over. Also get some sandbags to help with that. Umbrellas come pretty cheap but if you want soft light on a car buy the biggest ones you can afford. Profoto lights are really expensive, very good, but very expensive. If I can answer any questions, please feel free to PM me.

the strobist web page is fun... but it sounds like he's trying to move away from speedlights to a proper strobe system...

FStoppers (great bts info on all things lighting) Scott Dukes Blog(great automotive photographer who gives good bts info)

In reply to friedgreencorrado:

Don't worry, this thread isn't "ZOMG I want better pictures so I'm going to blindly point a ton of expensive equipment at my subject," it's more "I need to take professional quality pictures no matter what the conditions are, and I feel like a real strobe setup would be a great asset when properly used." This isn't my first rodeo.

In reply to 1988RedT2:

I was planning on picking up a good light meter, but I don't have a clue which one to get. I haven't really relied on one since my film days. Any recommendations for which brand/model to get?

In reply to racerdave600:

Adjustability is one of my primary concerns, dealing with the ancient equipment in my under-funded photo class made me appreciate just how much I rely on being able to adjust light output when I'm in a studio.

The tin foil tip is a great one! Thanks!

In reply to ppddppdd:

Yep, I read strobist daily. That website is what got me started with the little portable flash units. It's a great site!

In reply to Jerry From LA:

Thanks for the tip! My local craigslist is full of studio gear. I'm going to look at (that'a a euphemism for buy) a 4 head Novatron system on Saturday. How does an 880 plus power pack, 4 adjustable heads, a few assorted stands, light boxes, reflectors, and umbrellas, and all the necessary cords sound for the price of $250? The gear appears to be in fairly good shape, I knocked the guy's price down from $500 to $250 with one phone call.

In reply to Derick Freese:

I got your email, thanks!

In reply to Jim_Photo:

Sandbags. Got it!

In reply to Donalson:

Exactly!

Oh I forgot: Thanks to everybody for contributing! This is a great thread full of good ideas, you're the reason I keep coming back to this site.

Light Meter: L358 Best Meter I've ever put my hands on.

^^ What Jim said. Get a good meter. I am partial to a L508 or L358.

If you want to shoot large objects like cars, you either need lots of light, or just a few with some skill at balancing your daylight in for fill. I used to do big car shoots in studio and out (once shot an easy rider spread too!), and there are many ways to skin the cat. Get whatever is a good deal locally, and don't be afraid to mix and match. If you want to do some table-top product shots, one light will do it 95% of the time: top-back softbox.

Tom Suddard wrote: In reply to Jerry From LA: Thanks for the tip!

You're welcome.

.Almost everything in our house came from craigslist at a fraction of the original purchase price. We get to inspect the merch before we buy too. It's a lot more fun looking over a piece of gear, evaluating it and talking to the owner about its history than sweating out a bid situation or hitting the "Buy it Now" button and praying it's as represented.

eBay Motors is the only part of eBay that still works anywhere near as well as it did just a few years ago.

Your seller dropped his drawers because you may be the only one locally who showed any interest in his gear. Keep that in mind when you go see it.

Jim Cunningham Photo is going into my Rolodex, thanks. (I'm in Pittsburgh and hire photographers for work occasionally)

Not much to offer in the way of advice because I was a video guy, other than video lights are very different from still-photo lights. And to photograph cars properly, you need one of these things overhead:

I just realized that I forgot to give my favorite group of internet friends an update!

I bought the lights! $250 for a Novatron 440 plus with 4 heads (all one or two stop adjustable), 4 light stands, extra bulbs, light head extension cords, a light head splitter cord, 7 umbrellas, a slave plug thing, a sync cord, a power pack cord, and a huge amount of helpful advice from the guy I bought it from. All of it is in nearly perfect condition, with the exception of a few scratches on some of the stands/ power pack.