calteg
HalfDork
11/29/15 4:59 p.m.
Our fancy new dryer arrived today. The power cable is 4 wire, but the wiring block thingie appears to be 3 wire. I have a few concerns before I plug it in and zap it all to hell. The first photo is how I currently have everything set up.
1) still confused about how to wire the ground.
2) The black and red wires don't matter, as long as they're on the outside of the wiring block? The diagram shows "L1" and "L2", but I have no idea which is which
3) What the heck is the guy in the red circle? None of the diagrams show it anywhere. That's how it was setup when the dryer arrived. So far I've just left it alone.
I'm guessing that the little circled guy is an internal ground connection. Just leave it as is.
rusty
New Reader
11/29/15 6:55 p.m.
It's good the way you have it. You need some sort of connector where the cord goes through the hole. Don't mess with the circled ground connection.
Well, not that I know anything about this, but if I read their pictogram correctly - it appears that since you have a 4-wire cable, you need to disconnect their factory ground(in the red circle) and connect it to the center/neutral terminal on the wiring block.
I could be completely wrong, but that's how I'm reading it .
In reply to petegossett:
I interpreted the diagram in such a way that the connection that goes to the wall is supposed to be bolted to the non-circled ground screw as it is in the pictures. There isn't really an electrical reason for the second ground to be under the same bolt.
Mike
Dork
11/29/15 7:40 p.m.
Is that a Samsung? It looks exactly like what I did three months ago with mine.
rusty is right, you should have a little metal dohickey that maybe looks like a duckbill. It retains the cord and provides strain relief, so pulling on the cord won't be pulling on your electrical joints. It goes through the hole and screws together.
As memory serves, I removed the ground strap wire (the circled wire) and put it on the center bus of the junction block, per the sticker. Don't drop any screws - I remember being paranoid about that. Gotta love it when the manual and the sticker don't match.
IANAE (I am not an electrician) so, as expected with commenters on the internet, no warranty. If you break it, you own both halves.
petegossett wrote:
it appears that since you have a 4-wire cable, you need to disconnect their factory ground(in the red circle) and connect it to the center/neutral terminal on the wiring block.
I agree. Move from the chassis to the center terminal.
rusty
New Reader
11/29/15 8:17 p.m.
I would't move the circled ground wire. It is just a chassis ground and is meant to stay there.
calteg
HalfDork
11/29/15 8:24 p.m.
Mike wrote:
Is that a Samsung? It looks exactly like what I did three months ago with mine.
rusty is right, you should have a little metal dohickey that maybe looks like a duckbill. It retains the cord and provides strain relief, so pulling on the cord won't be pulling on your electrical joints. It goes through the hole and screws together.
As memory serves, I removed the ground strap wire (the circled wire) and put it on the center bus of the junction block, per the sticker. Don't drop any screws - I remember being paranoid about that. Gotta love it when the manual and the sticker don't match.
IANAE (I am not an electrician) so, as expected with commenters on the internet, no warranty. If you break it, you own both halves.
Good eye! Yes, it's a Samsung dryer. Not that you can tell, but the white (not beige) wire that is front and center is also internal to the dryer. I believe that one is the ground strap wire. The Lowe's guy who dropped it off said "both common wires go in the center"...I assume that's some sort of code for the ground wiring?
This random video seems to backup the way I currently have it wired:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6R7b4QiZNs
T.J.
UltimaDork
11/29/15 8:26 p.m.
It looks like it matches both the sticker on the rear of the machine and the picture in the instruction manual assuming the white wire that is not from your pigtail connected to the neutral terminal is connected to a ground on the far end. I can't see where it goes in your pic.
L1 is typically black and L2 typically red, but it shouldn't matter. You have it the standard way.
Hal
SuperDork
11/29/15 8:41 p.m.
pinchvalve wrote:
petegossett wrote:
it appears that since you have a 4-wire cable, you need to disconnect their factory ground(in the red circle) and connect it to the center/neutral terminal on the wiring block.
I agree. Move from the chassis to the center terminal.
Make that 3 votes for moving to neutral terminal.
calteg
HalfDork
12/1/15 12:10 p.m.
Hal wrote:
pinchvalve wrote:
petegossett wrote:
it appears that since you have a 4-wire cable, you need to disconnect their factory ground(in the red circle) and connect it to the center/neutral terminal on the wiring block.
I agree. Move from the chassis to the center terminal.
Make that 3 votes for moving to neutral terminal.
Alright, I contacted Samsung directly and they sent me this:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzNs6ippro8qcWo0cjZHNmJ1T3c
Based off that photo I believe ya'll are correct, and I need to move the internal ground to the center terminal. So the next question is, what do I do with the internal neutral wire (the white wire, front and center in the photo in my first post)?
Power cord is 4 wire? Wire it up like the 4 wire diagram and leave the extra neutral wire where it is. You're only dealing with around 44KW of energy. What's the worst that could happen?
calteg
HalfDork
12/2/15 2:51 p.m.
Alright, so the ultimate solution was to wire up the internal ground and both neutrals to the middle terminal. Worked like a champ. My neglecting to secure the drain hose properly was another matter entirely...