Options for interior garage walls

So continuing to figure out my garage stuff, I am looking at interior wall costs. I had quoted out getting someone to install all the drywall but I am trying to continue to reduce costs and I was wondering if there where other options I should consider.

Drywall: Has the whole fire-resistant thing going for it. But there is no way in hell I am dealing with drywalling a 40x20x16 garage myself (after doing 3 walls of an 8x10 room with normal height ceilings and that taking forever) so that will mean paying someone to do it and then I have to paint it. Gets beat up easily.

Metal sheeting: I was thinking about this option since I'd think it would be fire-resistant. Would I need to put extra supports in though? It seems like it would be cheaper since I figure I'd do that myself. Worried about echo. Also hanging stuff might be a pain.

FRP Paneling/ bathroom paneling of some sort: Seen this done in a garage. Guy locally showed me his garage where he had done this. It was kind of nice because basically everything was a dry erase board and it would be super easy to install it seems

Plywood/OSB: Not a fan of this because of lack of fire-resistance

Or I guess I could do some combo of the above options like maybe metal or drywall or FRP bottom 8 ft of walls, plywood top 8 ft of walls and metal ceilings? Any opinions? Other options?

I need to know the answer to this.

I'm also here to absorb more than to advise...

I hadn't ruled out ply/OSB yet, but will definitely be looking into The Word on whether it's a fire danger, and that could easily nix it.

I also definitely haven't ruled out hiring out the drywall. Folks who know what they're doing put that stuff up fast, and better than I seem to be able to do given way more time. It's not not a budget line item, but it might be a great value if you can swing it. I'm also really curious about some of the heavy drywalls and isolating mounts in terms of keeping neighbors happy.

Not sure if it helps, but I explained why I chose drywall for my shop here:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/project-backyard-shop-wiring-and-interior/

Oh, and I just became aware of the existence of drywall lifts for walls, though I'm not sure whether they're good for above-living-room-height walls...

Tom Suddard said:

Not sure if it helps, but I explained why I chose drywall for my shop here:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/project-backyard-shop-wiring-and-interior/

Yeah it makes sense I just really really hate doing drywall work.

I am kind of tempted to put up 1/4in drywall for the first 8 vertical covering that with some cheap FRP paneling so I don't have to do mudding and tapping, the top 8ft put up some thin plywood/osb and then a metal ceiling. Only thing I am not sure about there is if the metal ceiling could support insulation.

In reply to 93EXCivic :

Sheet metal is a no-no. It transfers heat too quickly and a fire on the outside will quickly ignite on the inside.  
Paneling is also a no no, most is not fire resistant. 
Yes you could use Dur-rock   and then put tile on top to achieve fire resistance but your wallet will sure be complaining about cost. 
 Face it,  sheet rock is fast and safe. If it takes you too long to do you aren't doing it right. If you watch professionals you'll see a few of the tricks and technics but much of the skill and speed comes from practice.  
#1 recommendation use a panel lift and start on the ceiling. You can then flip it sideways and put the top row in place. 
#2 recommendation is use Dur-rock on the bottom. That way if water gets in the garage you're not replacing sheet rock. It's also slightly more fire resistant. And with sparks bouncing on the floor that's nice. 
tapping and mudding.  There is technic and a little skill.  Start on the top work down. 
 

the technic is long pulls of the taping knife the length of the seam. Don't overload your knife of put too little on.  Make sure you stir the mud completely.  . a little hand drill ain't gonna do it. You'll need a big Milwaukee hole hawg  with the proper mixing blade.  It's not done until it's semi soupy - no lumps or thick clumps.   
 Don't try to work off ladders. If you don't have the lifts and you're not comfortable on them. Set up benches and planks or plywood. 
remember you'll be looking up and need to just walk along without looking down to check on your footing. 

Your first pull should be long and smooth,  the full length of the tape.  Once all the seams are done do the corner mudding. I use a corner trowel but some don't.  Same rules apply to the ceiling corners. Then do the vertical corners. And last the vertical  seams. Always be working   towards the floor. 
 

Let that dry overnight. Then use the dry blade  to scrape off any lumps, bumps, or mistakes. 
the mud you put on last night will shrink.  And this coat will  be light and faster. 
 Let dry overnight and to the dry scrape first. Then do the final sanding. 
if you've done a good job of application the sanding will go very quickly. 

I just did drywall, cost to paint was astoundingly high...like $3k just to paint it. I think it is 1900sq ft of wall surface though

Jesse Ransom said:

I'm also here to absorb more than to advise...

I hadn't ruled out ply/OSB yet, but will definitely be looking into The Word on whether it's a fire danger, and that could easily nix it.

I wonder how well a fire retardant paint would work on OSB/ply like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Firetect-WT-102-1-gal-White-Flat-Latex-Intumescent-Fireproofing-Flame-Retardant-Paint-Coating-for-Wood-102W-1/307899625 The best thing about OSB is that it would be it is easy to hang stuff and it won't get beat up like drywall.

In reply to chandler :

Painting a garage  assuming it's empty and one color should take a couple of hours per stall.  few painters earn much over $20-25 an hour. But  some contractors give them transit pay. ( some dont). 

Slatwall? I got a whole pickup truck full for free at a retail store doing remodeling.

[URL=https://app.photobucket.com/u/NOTATA/a/05b53996-5069-4d81-b347-6e06f4236899/p/1f92e126-0671-4bfa-8b33-a38847d2852a][/URL]

93EXCivic said:

I wonder how well a fire retardant paint would work on OSB/ply like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Firetect-WT-102-1-gal-White-Flat-Latex-Intumescent-Fireproofing-Flame-Retardant-Paint-Coating-for-Wood-102W-1/307899625 The best thing about OSB is that it would be it is easy to hang stuff and it won't get beat up like drywall.

That's a compelling point. I'm going to try to keep track of where I'm flailing the claymore and all, but a shop is a shop, and I'm pretty much guaranteed to dent the drywall ten minutes after the paint's finished. Curious about that fire retardant paint... Hope it doesn't have to be flat, which is guaranteed to get filthy instantly and be utterly un-cleanable... Pretty sure flat paint sucks dirt off fingers from a distance like electrostatic powdercoating.

In reply to Jesse Ransom :

Sheet rock is so easy to repair.  Minor dents can be corrected with spackle and a putty knife. Major holes can be fixed in about 15 minutes if you know how.  If you really want put steel up, First put up a layer of sheetrock to provide the required fireproofing needed. Then  cover the sheet rock with whatever you want. Depleted uranium if you have some laying around. 

Jesse Ransom said:

That's a compelling point. I'm going to try to keep track of where I'm flailing the claymore and all, but a shop is a shop, and I'm pretty much guaranteed to dent the drywall ten minutes after the paint's finished. Curious about that fire retardant paint... Hope it doesn't have to be flat, which is guaranteed to get filthy instantly and be utterly un-cleanable... Pretty sure flat paint sucks dirt off fingers from a distance like electrostatic powdercoating.

I think that one is meant to be a primer. But it seems like there are multiple options.

Another vote for drywall. But you don't really have to bother with all the taping and mudding for a garage. Or, if you do, you don't need to get a great finish. Then grab a roller and a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz primer and give it a coat. Hides the seams, makes everything look consistent and really brightens up the space with minimal effort. I did that in my current garage and was really happy with the results. My previous garage had an unfinished drywall ceiling and the guy I sold it to painted that white - I wish I'd done it myself after seeing it.

In 2017 i did my new shop in smooth galvenized 4x10 sheet metal panels.  What a joy.

I put up all the walls in a few hours.  1" screws with small rubber backed washers.  Can be cleaned with a hose if i wanted.   Not worried about  denting or dirtying sheet rock.   No paint.   No mud.  No sanding.  I have hundreds of posters, banners, and stuff hung on the walls with magnets.  Easy to clean.  ...and shiny, helps the lighting.

At the time i bought it wholesale at $30 per sheet.  So cheaper than sheetrock finished.

If I have my way, I will never use drywall on any home or garage project ever again.

Material prices have gone crazy in the last 6 months since I was shopping, so I have no idea what any of the common materials cost right now or how they relate in price to each other.

Metal "liner panel" is fast to put up and easy to remove if you ever need access, durable, fire resistant and easy to clean. No finishing needed, and the bright white color and glossy finish really brightens a space. But it's not easy to hang things on because of the ribbed profile, and if you have shelves, there are gaps at the back that small things will inevitably roll/fall into.

OSB/Plywood has many of the same attributes, but it's less fire resistant and comes unfinished of course. It is nice to be able to hang things pretty much anywhere (assuming you choose appropriate thickness). Price has jumped a bunch lately.

Drywall gives a smooth, finished look and is fire resistant but it's the least durable and hates moisture. Might be the cheapest option though, especially if you don't tape/mud it.

I ended up deciding on OSB (smooth side out, oil based primer and painted) with a course of FRP paneling on the bottom 4 ft:

The paint and paneling are reasonably reflective and should make it easier to keep clean too.

^^^ What he said.

Spousal unit and I are about to break ground on a home build, and lumber is up 65% and OSB 145% from the original quote in April to August.

STM317 said:

Material prices have gone crazy in the last 6 months since I was shopping, so I have no idea what any of the common materials cost right now or how they relate in price to each other.

Yeah. It sucks but it is what it is.

Keith Tanner said:

Another vote for drywall. But you don't really have to bother with all the taping and mudding for a garage. Or, if you do, you don't need to get a great finish. Then grab a roller and a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz primer and give it a coat. Hides the seams, makes everything look consistent and really brightens up the space with minimal effort. I did that in my current garage and was really happy with the results. My previous garage had an unfinished drywall ceiling and the guy I sold it to painted that white - I wish I'd done it myself after seeing it.

Do you have any pics? You didn't do any mudding or taping?

What are "garage walls?"

(There is drywall behind everything someplace but I haven't seen it in years)

Timber frame the walls and  there is no taping  or mudding.    

Drywall is sadly probably the best answer, material per board is cheaper than OSB or any paneling.  You could also install and then pay someone to tape/mud if you don't want to bother with that.

A combo of drywall walls and metal roofing/sheeting might be a good compromise for cost and ease of install.  If you can find a local shop that makes them, can get any length you want within reason. The panels are easy to mount with some "furring strips" across joists or rafters (cant remember the right term) depending on the spacing.  Come in already painted white, so that also eliminates having to paint the ceiling.  As far as flame resistance, pole barns are entirely metal sheeting construction, take that as you will.

This guy used aluminum soffit panels, also an option.

Keith Tanner said:

Another vote for drywall. But you don't really have to bother with all the taping and mudding for a garage. Or, if you do, you don't need to get a great finish. Then grab a roller and a 5 gallon bucket of Kilz primer and give it a coat. Hides the seams, makes everything look consistent and really brightens up the space with minimal effort. I did that in my current garage and was really happy with the results. My previous garage had an unfinished drywall ceiling and the guy I sold it to painted that white - I wish I'd done it myself after seeing it.

Another option for drywall finishing is a knockdown coating.  I still can't get photo upload to work on this site so I can't post pictures but that's what I did in my shop and it's more durable than straight drywall, hides minor dents and is quick and easy to do.