In reply to Enyar :
Buy a brad nailer. It does the job in a hundredth of the time and to perfection that hand nailing does. You can buy brads in all sorts of lengths and never bend one because your hammer missed.
No more hammer dents either.
Plus when you're done with the ceiling you'll have a million other tasks for it. It's a tool you'll love for its simplicity.
No you can't shoot brads across a room. It won't fire until it's in place and you pull the trigger. Even if you pull the trigger if the nailer isn't against something to trip the safety it won't fire.
frenchyd said:
No you can't shoot brads across a room. It won't fire until it's in place and you pull the trigger. Even if you pull the trigger if the nailer isn't against something to trip the safety it won't fire.
Sure you can. Just hold the safety back with one hand and fire with the other.
Wait, I was wrong, don't do that.
ultraclyde (Forum Supporter) said:
Generic question for Paul about air infiltration and backers...could you use some kind of house wrap type barrier layer instead of rock? I have no idea if that's a good or bad plan, codes, or whatever. Just curious.
It's so humid where we are that I would be concerned about mdf on a ceiling in a bathroom, maybe the kitchen too. But I tend to be over cautious.
Hmm... It depends...
Different house wraps have different performance properties. Most house wrap prevents bulk water from penetrating while still breathing enough to allow humidity in a wall to dry and pass through. Some are also air infiltration barriers.
An actual vapor barrier like polyethylene wouldn't work. It would keep moisture from exiting the wall cavity and could cause rot.
For housewrap to function well as an air infiltration barrier the joists would have to be sealed, etc. This could be tricky with no sheathing underneath. I'd also be concerned about other details, like how hot the can lights get that are touching the house wrap (and if the stuff will burn)
Its weird reading stuff I wrote 5 years ago... lol!
In reply to Enyar :
How did your ceiling turn out?
Enyar
SuperDork
2/24/22 8:49 p.m.
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to Enyar :
How did your ceiling turn out?
Great! You're right it's weird to read old posts. Glad to see all the old posters still trucking along though! Miss this forum,
Just walked over and snapped this pic. Floors are coming next
Enyar said:
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to Enyar :
How did your ceiling turn out?
Great! You're right it's weird to read old posts. Glad to see all the old posters still trucking along though! Miss this forum,
Just walked over and snapped this pic. Floors are coming next
Nice reaction time there. drag racer?
(I'm kidding - don't even know how to watch a thread myself)
MDF isn't "that sensitive" to moisture in the air. It pretty well takes standing water or the wet bottom of a flower pot before you can do damage to it once it is painted.
I used MDF for my window sills and all trim throughout the house and in 15 years the only spot in the whole house where there's even the slightest hint of an issue is a kitchen window sill that gets wet regularly and my wife has set multiple flower vases/pots on.
But with all that said, I'd never do a wood ceiling again. The sound bounce back and echo is horrendous when compared to drywall. AND that popcorn on the ceiling serves a purpose!! It diffuses the sound and really quiets the sound travel
Just a fyi, you always put fire taped drywall on all walls and ceilings surfaces under paneling to keep a fire in a room from penetrating into the attic space or wall studs (well, at least for a 1/2 hour). It will also help starve any fire of oxygen and hopefully save the house or garage. 1/2" for 16" o.c. and 5/8" for 24" o.c. Ceilings should be type "X" which has fiberglass fibers to give it added strength during the fire.
