Glad to hear you're OK, and thanks for the reminder! Hope you have a speedy recovery!
Glad to hear you're OK, and thanks for the reminder! Hope you have a speedy recovery!
Tables saws pretty much stay put. Death wheels are left handed, right handed, aimed at your hootus, above your head, an inch from your face. So many exciting ways to maim yourself with the Death Wheel.
Never used a table saw above my head.
Patrick (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :
Table saws only have 5% of their utility with the guard on
...and only 5% of their dismemberment capacity.
KyAllroad (Jeremy) (Forum Supporter) said:einy (Forum Supporter) said:Appleseed said:The Death Wheel is the only tool I truly fear.
That, and the radial arm saw for me.
During my 4 years in the emergency room it was a toss up between circular saw and table saw. They both remove digits faster than you can blink.
i'd have to give the title to the table saw honestly. Frigging brutal machines.
Thought I had read somewhere that sliding miter saws had overtaken all other home improvement tools for quickly removing/maiming body parts.
Heal quickly! Thats gotta be a painful experience.
Not to threadjack but if the abrasive cut off wheel is so dangerous, is there a better alternative? Someone mentioned a bandsaw/portaband or a sawzall and thats good thinking but what about using a metal cutting disk vs abrasive disk? I cant recall hearing injuries related to the metal (diamond edge) blades.
NoviceClass said:Thought I had read somewhere that sliding miter saws had overtaken all other home improvement tools for quickly removing/maiming body parts.
I'm trying to figure out why people say that sliding miter saws are so much safer than radial arm saws. What is different?
In reply to Grtechguy :
A radial arm saw is operating on a fixed plane. A sliding miter saw is trying to bounce back up into it's "rest" position.
At work we got rid of our radial arm saw years ago. And replaced our table saw with units from SawStop. They are freaking magic!
captdownshift (Forum Supporter) said:Email sent via forum software, and no it's not a picture request, I forgot that you're in the tidewater and know of a vehicle for sale down there that someone on the board needs to end up with.
i heart GRM.
dude, can you still walk? because i need a walkaround on a car that's in your general vicinity.
In reply to Grtechguy :
There is also something about the power level and the stationary nature of it.
A sliding miter saw has a small table. If you are working the trigger with your right hand, your left hand is probably holding your work steady. It's probably not resting on the table.
A radial arm saw is designed for fast production cross cutting, and usually is set up with a large table. You don't have to hold the work in place, and the machine promotes working fast. If you are pulling the trigger with your right hand, your left hand is probably resting on the large table, and it's easy to forget when you set it in the path of the blade and whack off a hand.
Table saws and circular saws are the 2 tools that most frequently have their safety guards tampered with. Well... not counting hand grinders!
The circular saw is prone to user dumbness. Users can't figure out how to use 2 hands to make a cut (with one temporarily holding up the guard for unusual cuts). They jam wedges in the guard to keep it up, which leaves the blade exposed on the bottom side where they can't see it. Perfect for hootus removal. As a carpenter with many years experience, I can tell you this is NEVER necessary. The guard works fine. Learn to use the tool properly.
Yes, table saws are less useful with their guards in place. Mine is removed too. But everybody knows they've removed the darned thing, and still insist on sticking their fingers near the blade without using a push stick.
Guns don't kill people. People kill people. Table saws don't remove digits. People remove digits.
It's not the machines that are dumb.
CarKid1989 said:Heal quickly! Thats gotta be a painful experience.
Not to threadjack but if the abrasive cut off wheel is so dangerous, is there a better alternative? Someone mentioned a bandsaw/portaband or a sawzall and thats good thinking but what about using a metal cutting disk vs abrasive disk? I cant recall hearing injuries related to the metal (diamond edge) blades.
That's what tried to cut my thumb off
Wait...table saws have guards? Jesus, how old is the Old Man's Delta saw?
Back when I was in college there was half of a large cutoff wheel stuck in the roof of the auto shop.
CarKid1989 said:Heal quickly! Thats gotta be a painful experience.
Not to threadjack but if the abrasive cut off wheel is so dangerous, is there a better alternative? Someone mentioned a bandsaw/portaband or a sawzall and thats good thinking but what about using a metal cutting disk vs abrasive disk? I cant recall hearing injuries related to the metal (diamond edge) blades.
The gash on my wrist was from a diamond edge blade. If they bind, they don't break; the grinder kicks and then takes off in whatever direction it pleases. My wrist happened to be in the path.
Do we know if the binding and kicking causes the breakage of the disk or if the breakage of the disk causes the binding and kicking? It all sort of just happens when it happens so I'm always curious.
But I have heard the box cutter is the most dangerous tool by # of injuries.
Oh I forgot my other fear. Drill press. Shop teachers always go on and on about how they'll rip the work around and do nasty things, so use the vise. Well I used the vise, and it still ripped the work out, sliced my hand pretty good (breaking my thumb in the process) then threw the piece through a warp in spacetime, and imbedded it in the door that was behind me. Everyone says get back on the horse, but I haven't used it since.
that little scar is my reminder to fear the drill press.
In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :
Every time I've had binding or kickback with a cutoff wheel it has been due to the workpiece causing the damage. Usually it is when trying to cut a piece of tubing or other large stock, and the cut pinches the disc as you get deeper. A pre-damaged wheel tends to come apart in an explodey fashion rather than binding and kicking in my experience.
Try getting hit with a 3600 psi pressure washer. I have a 2.5 Inch by 1.5 inch scar the shape of the Nike sneaker logo on my left hand above my thumb. Dug in and spit out the flesh while also removing a nice flap. That one sucked and they could not stitch it due to infection concerns. Them things are not to be underestimated
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Today hasn't been the best (nothing new or scary, just residual damage) but most days I'm capable of doing a walk around without issue or hesitation.
Oof... Heal up well and quickly. And thanks for reminding me to dump all the spare wheels of dubious manufacture and storage in the trash.
This thread is convincing me to just overwork Dremel tools instead of using death wheels as much as possible. I've had a Dremel cutoff wheel blow up on me and it's not something I'd ever want to scale up 10x.
In reply to fereder :
Canoe
So this resurfaces just as I'm planning to use a cutoff wheel. Is that a sign?
In reply to slantvaliant (Forum Supporter) :
Yes. Be damned careful with it. Please.
The only tool I fear is a manual lathe.
Oh. and this particular circular saw:
Why this one?
You'll need to log in to post.
