Ok guys. I know one of you knows what works best for this. I've read about it and you take thread and wrap it then epoxy the thread, but what is the best technique? What tools to use to hold it, thread to use, epoxy, blah blah blah?
Ok guys. I know one of you knows what works best for this. I've read about it and you take thread and wrap it then epoxy the thread, but what is the best technique? What tools to use to hold it, thread to use, epoxy, blah blah blah?
I've built hundreds of rods, but never finished the ones in progress after starting autocross.
I'm not able to reply more right now, this will get you started.
In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Stumbled across mentions of Mudhole. Looks like a good shop
In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
If I didn't know you better I'd wonder about that link. Wait I do know you better.
Okay, I'm back. I'm going to do a quick rundown of what I can think of. Watch some YouTube videos and see what other resources you can find to go with my cursory summary.
You need some single edged razor blades or an exacto knife with some spare blades. Cut the thread over the old guide foot so you don't damage the rod blank. Start at the edge of the thread wrap closest to the middle. Once you get it cut, you often can unwind it out to the end. It appears that your rod also has an underwrap, as is common on heavier rods. The underwrap is a layer of thread around the rod underneath the guide, visible between the wraps holding the guide feet. It's obviously wrapped before the guide is attached. You might be able to salvage the underwrap, or you can replace it.
Another possible concern with this rod is that it appears that the guide wrap proximal to the handle also serves to secure the diamond wrap. If you expose the ends of the diamond wrap, I think you'll be okay, as the epoxy on the rest of the wrap should hold it in place so you can wrap over it again.
Prep your new guide by using a flat file to put a taper on the end of the foot so the thread wrap transitions smoothly onto the guide from the blank.
Position the guide in place with a thin strip of masking tape. You'll need two wire coat hangers to support the rod while you rotate it with your fingers to wrap the thread on. You can bend the hangers to grip the edge of a table or support the rod above the table. The rod will be suspended in the hooked part of the hangers. you will be able to line the guide up after it's wrapped, if it's off a little bit. Just remember to do it as a last step before you coat it in epoxy.
Your spool of thread can sit in a coffee cup. You'll need something to keep steady tension on the thread. I used a New York City phone book, running the thread through the book to the rod.
Start your wrap a set distance from the end of the guide foot, trapping the end by doubling it back and wrapping over the loose end. on my saltwater rods like that one, I used to wrap the thread about an equal distance of the guide foot from the tip of foot. Keep steady tension on the thread, pushing it against the preceding wraps so that they're tight against each other with no space between them.
Wind the thread onto the rod, then when you're about ten wraps from completion, wrap a loop of approximately 20 pound test monofilament under the thread. You will finish the wrap, then cut the thread and pass the end through the loop. Pull the loop back under the completed wraps, and cut it off tight against the wrap.
The rod building thread comes in two basic types. The simplest thing to do is to buy NCP thread. This means non color preserver. Normal fishing rod thread, becomes somewhat transparent after it gets coated and saturated with the epoxy. Using NPC thread will save you a step and some expense by not needing to use color preserver.
Buy rod epoxy from Mudhole, it's UV stabilized and won't yellow and deteriorate as quickly as other epoxy.
after you brush on the epoxy, the rod will have to be rotated slowly so that the epoxy doesn't sag. I used to do that step by hand. Also, it takes about 20 to 30 minutes before you can stop completely. I would keep a watch on it every couple of minutes after about the first 15 or so so that if it started to droop I could turn the rod over.
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