Replace a subframe?

You think this could be a problem?

Seems that to replace it you take the car apart to it's major components, swap out the frame, then reassemble car. UGH. Perhaps a patch weld over the whole thing?

Is that a subaru?

when i did fwd stuff i used to use a 4x4 across the strut towers with straps or chains to hold the drivetrain up, then drop the subframe out from under it

I just changed the subframe in my track car. Not that big a deal, I think it took 2 hours last time. Granted, that's a Miata and I've worked on them once or twice, but still.

Definitely support the engine from above and just drop the subframe down. I can see how it would be a challenge on some cars, but most of the ones I've worked on make it relatively easy.

All you need is a can of Great Stuff and some black Plasti-dip, and it'll be as good as new.

Trick will be finding another one that isn't just as rusty in the junk yard.

I would say definately replace. If you really think anything you buy locally will be just as rusty maybe find someplace in Cali or Arizona on car-part.com that will ship.

I didn't see where you said what car this is, but I just removed a subframe from an AWD RAV4, and it is fairly straightforward, just disconnect the lower ball joints, six bolts and it's out.

Given that much rust in that spot, how much else is not going to unbolt/rebolt successfully?

Is this the Florida Jeep?

That flex pipe looks like it is about to bite the bullet too.

I do subframes all the time, support the engine from above, left everything hang.

You don't think you remove the drivetrain in order to change a rack and pinion, do you? Of course not.

tr8todd wrote: Trick will be finding another one that isn't just as rusty in the junk yard.

Junkyards (read: LKQ) stock Southern subframes for popular applications. There was a time when I did a string of N-body subframes after the rack mounting tabs would shred. Call 'em up, clean Southern subframe delivered the next morning.

I remember doing a bunch of Taurus subframes but I can't remember why. There was a year split around 01-02ish and half the time they would give us the wrong one.

It's really not that bad of a job once you get all the cage nutted bolts out and are over that anxiety. Jack the car up high as you can and set it on some cribbing blocks or 6 ton stands(stability is important here, yanking on the biggest bolts on the car). I did one in the driveway once, in February.

engine support bar makes it an easier job.

Just have your minions do it!

Also stockpile lots of PB blaster and soak the car in it before starting the job. I'm currently one rusted steering rack bolt away from getting the subframe out onto the floor with my project.

In reply to Kenny_McCormic, I had to look where you live. You're crazy! That's impressive. Good advice about getting the car up as high as possible!

In reply to XLR99:

When I did that, when I was still in high school, I actually lived farther west in the middle of the state, with lake effect snowfall. I got in a wreck and took out the pass front corner(pretzeled the strut, upright, and tie rod), and knew the subframe was also pretty bad, and had a good subframe ready to go so, I did both. Took me about a week of working on it (half an hour out, half an hour in, repeat until dark) after school, it was that or keep riding the berkeleying bus. The 500 watt halogen work light under the car helped.

Take measurements and replace the stamped with a lightweight tubular DOM subframe put together by a local fabricator, powder coat and install.

At 280,000 miles I had a rack problem and decided that it was time for other items to be replaced/upgraded at the time. Bushing were a good start, but the sway bar bushings were not available for my model, but the GT larger bar was...so I found a junker with the correct cross member that also had bigger brakes and did a bench build with new rack, bushings, ball joints, front axle bearings, struts with upper mounts, of course tie rod ends. I even bought lower motor mount because they were suddenly right there and easy to reach! Rotors, calipers and soft brake lines got on the list too. I spent about 3 months gathering parts as the original rack was a bit worn and had a rattle but still drove safely and I had to find stray cash for all the parts. Once I had it together it took about 2 hours to swap these units and was utterly simple with no knuckle busting or cussing. Felt like a new car!

Cross member swap? Easier than the dang heater core!

Bruce

In reply to Kenny_McCormic:

Interesting how the horror of riding the bus will motivate teenagers .

captdownshift wrote: Take measurements and replace the stamped with a lightweight tubular DOM subframe put together by a local fabricator, powder coat and install.

Because $1500+ for a one of subframe that won't fit right because nothing one-off ever fits right, and might be weaker than stock due to ill-advised tube placement, is way better than a $400-500 subframe that will fit without screwing around...

It's on the Kia Rondo (hard to believe I know, considering the awesomeness of the Rondo. I am assuming German spies did this to it to sully the Kia name). My head is pretty sore from slapping it so hard: SUPPORT THE ENGINE FROM ABOVE!! DOH!!!!!" That really changes the entire project, can;t believe I didn't realize that. Now to find a rust-free subframe...

I'd make sure there isn't some sort of odd warranty there. Sometimes car companies (Ford)(Toyota) decide that having parts (rear axle) (frame) break in half (Windstar)(pickup) is bad publicity, and they pay...

Yes, do that, there may be a TSB/recall on this, I remember hearing about KIA going through a lot of subframes a while ago(my dad wrenches on them). Usually it's a poke it with a screwdriver test and shoot it full of rustproofing grease if it passes, you'd fail and get a new one.