Saab guys - what's this all about? This is a trick - selling his floor jack and ramps? That's not right.
Car runs ok but on occasion, it stalls on acceleration which is not uncommon for these.
I can also negotiate including some of my tools as well like ramps, floor jack, jack stands.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/d/darien-saab-900-turbo-1990-manual/7089397104.html
![](https://images.craigslist.org/00m0m_8Smlwq9IUFi_1200x900.jpg)
mtn
MegaDork
3/9/20 5:56 p.m.
Oh this is tempting. I shouldn’t even entertain the thought though.
What's the common acceleration stalling issue?
Dunno about acceleration stall, but on the SAAB 900 Turbo I flipped about 8 years ago, the distributor hold-down bolt backed out just enough for the distributor body to rotate all the way and screw the timing so bad that it barely ran and made no boost at all. Putting it back to the factory spec and tightening the bolt was the only mechanical thing it needed.
If the oil fill cap is not clicked on both clips, that happens. I drove all the way to a Dealership to have a Tech giggle at me....
Disregard my dumb comment.
Sounds kinda maf-ey to me.
In reply to clutchsmoke :
This is a pre-gm SAAB, no ignition cassette here. They came in on the 2.3 liter transverse engine SAABs.
To the OP, I don't know of a "common" stalling under acceleration issue with C900s. By 1990 they had most of the teething problems figured out, so it's not likely to be a manufacturing issue.
Stampie
UltimaDork
3/9/20 9:45 p.m.
Mine never had problems accelerating. In fact I once barked the wheels going into 2nd which was pretty good for 80's cars. If this were local I'd be offering $800 and love every minute of hunting down the problem.
Or, if the coil is weak, they will blow the spark out at high boost levels. That can be reproduced pretty easily under particular conditions- generally high load, low rpm.
I really should put mine back together...
Powar
UltraDork
3/10/20 8:53 a.m.
If it is only doing it during hard accel, it could be hitting overboost. When this happens, it hits hard and cuts power. You can bypass the switch if you're confident you have enough fuel that it won't blow up. The switch is under the steering column.
if you want to lay out the cash, you can upgrade the injection/ignition system to T5 from the late 90's 900s/9-3s. The bonus being that even though it is a factory system, it's adjustable with a laptop and an adaptor
If by "acceleration," the seller means "while accelerating and between shifts," then it could just be a broken turbo bypass valve. He later says "stalling/hesitation," so not sure what he means, exactly; hesitation could just be an old fuel filter, dying Hall sensor connector...
A '90 will have overboost controlled by the LH2.4 ECU; earlier LH2.2 had the switch.
Buyer will get a perfectly good odo cable that probably doesn't need to be installed; the odo is often repairable by recrimping a pot metal gear that no longer grabs a shaft.
As a West Coaster, former New Englander, seeing rust in the arches like that makes me cringe ![surprise surprise](https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/static/ckeditor/ckeditor/plugins/smiley/images/omg_smile.png)