So why hasn't anyone tried to make a trailer trash Mclaren P1 out of a Trans Am yet?
I know I'm probably missing a lot of details here, but surely if you hack one of those hybrid Tahoe transmissions to work behind a turbo 5.3 and jumper some wires and divide by 0 enough times, something wonderful could happen.
No I haven't been drinking, and no I don't really know how hybrids work, of either GM or Mclaren flavor. I'm gonna go do some googles now.
I have been drinking, and thats sounds wounderful.
From the interwebs:
The GM 2ML70 2 Mode Hybrid system first appeared as a 2008 model in the Chevy Tahoe and the GMC Yukon and was followed by the Cadillac Escalade in 2009. The 2ML70 moved into the Silverado and Sierra 1500 series pickups, with all models using the 6.0 Liter gas engine.
The 2ML70 transmission is a four speed rear drive which can be configured in a two or four wheel drive application (Fig. 1). The 2ML70 does not use a torque converter; it uses a dampener assembly to smoothly transmit power from the engine flywheel to the transmission.
The 2ML70 uses a vane type pump with the dampener housing as the pump body. This system utilizes stop/start technology and therefore has a 12 volt auxiliary pump to keep the 1-2 clutch primed any time the engine shuts down.
The 2ML70 also utilizes three planetary gear sets, two rotating clutch packs and two fixed clutch packs. In addition it has two 60 kW electric motor/generators which can drive the vehicle on electricity only and can also recharge the 330 volt hybrid battery pack.
The transmission operation is controlled by a Transmission Control Module (TCM) which is located inside the transmission and the hybrid systems operation is controlled by the Hybrid Control Processor (HCP) located under the hood.
Find me a wrecked hybrid 2wd and I'll figure it out
120KW extra wouldn't be bad. Knowing OEM use of electric motors, that rating is probably the 1hr rating so much more can be had. It would be interesting to know the headroom in the controller setup. If the controller can be hacked to push the limits more you might be able to have a bit of fun.
Electric motor torque 242 lb-ft (320 Nm)
Crickey, that does sound fun. That should get you something 600+ combined torques at peak
What if you wire the electric motor to a switch, almost like a "push to pass" button? It would be KITT's "Turbo Boost" button IRL.
G_Body_Man wrote: What if you wire the electric motor to a switch, almost like a "push to pass" button? It would be KITT's "Turbo Boost" button IRL.
Sadly these are AC motors so they need properly timed pulses of lightning juice. That requires a complicated controller eliminating the "give er all shes got" flipping a switch method of making it go. Better for things like regen and spinning 12000 rpm, worse for fun.
I like the theory of it filling in for turbo lag better.
In reply to MrJoshua:
Makes sense. What about using the electric motor to torque-fill and having a ridiculous cam and a GT35 or two on the gas motor? If the turbos don't really spool up until 3000 RPM or so, it wouldn't be that hard to make the electric motors fill from 0-2k, the cam start to produce real torque from 2-3k, and then the turbos finally spool at 3k or so. A continuous wave of ridiculous sketchy power.
A quick search shows a lot more 4x4 versions available compared to the 2wd.
Not very challenge friendly unless you can find a good deal on a complete vehicle.
Transmissions are >$1000, and battery packs are also similarly priced.
I wonder if a variable frequency drive could be used to control the motors and bypass the hybrid module?
In reply to jstand:
Get a complete 2wd truck, sell the bed as an assembly, doors, mirrors, seats and lamps.
Shoehorn LS, hybrid setup and pair of junkyard HX35s into miata.
MrJoshua wrote: Sadly these are AC motors so they need properly timed pulses of lightning juice. That requires a complicated controller eliminating the "give er all shes got" flipping a switch method of making it go. Better for things like regen and spinning 12000 rpm, worse for fun.
You can still do that, but you have to tell the motor controller to "give 'er all she's got" rather than the motor directly.
However being able to drive in electric-only mode like the P1 can't be done with a regular drivetrain. One way is to have a dual-powertrain car like Nashco's hybrid Fiero where one axle is powered by the electric motor and the other by the gas engine.
The other way is with an exotic powertrain like the P1 or Porsche 918 - the P1 has two sets of clutches and flywheels in series like this:
Engine -- Flywheel -- Single clutch -- Flywheel (with electric motor on it) -- Dual clutch -- Transaxle
So the only purpose of the single clutch is to allow the car to drive on electric power only.
How much would the gain have to pay off to justify the weight increase? Between the complexity and relative rarity of the parts, and the fact that you'd have to carve out a space for the Tahoe-shaped battery somewhere in a chassis that was never designed for that, you'd have trouble convincing me that it was worth it. Seems like you could just play with turbo sizing, cam design, and boost levels for way less money, time and effort.
An S-10 is a better platform for a GM junkyard Hybrid. There is plenty of info out there on V8 swaps, and on electric conversions, and drag racing setups. You put the V8 up front, a flat battery pack in the bed (more weight over the drive wheels) and then it's just small details.
I thought this was going to be about that "hybrid" LS Next engine block that is a tradition SBC block that accepts LS-style heads
STM317 wrote: and the fact that you'd have to carve out a space for the Tahoe-shaped battery somewhere in a chassis that was never designed for that,
See also: Why inter-model EV battery swapping is a terrible idea (volume 1)
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