Parts of the Grosh need a ceiling. I still need access through the ceiling. A suspended ceiling would work, but I don't actually like suspended ceilings.
I'd like something that can attach pretty much directly to the studs if possible, but something I can pretty easily get through if needed.
Ideas?
The suspended ones don't always have to be that gross white tiles.
I saw one the other day that was lattice teak tiles and it was awesome.
Here's another cool one.
Corrugated steel.
Re-reading your post, if you are fastening straight to the ceiling joists and not suspending it, dropping the tiles will be impossible. You might have to go with screw up panels.
There are a lot of different kinds of suspended ceilings, including snap-lock grids and invisible grids (but they are pricey).
Some of the nicest are commercial metal strip ceilings- picture a high end car dealership, or an airport. Extremely pricey.
How about residential vinyl soffit? Cheap, clean, accessible. No good for dust resistance, or sound.
You could put any panel in a 2x2 suspended grid ceiling- plywood, Formica, stainless steel, cork, FRP, etc.
You could also use something like corrugated roofing, and just accept that access would mean you'd have to unscrew a panel.
What are you trying to accomplish, and what do you not like about suspended ceilings?
I mostly think they're ugly and ultimately fragile if you need to get in and out of them. I'm looking to lose as little height as possible in the one section of the building that has 8 foot ceilings, and be able to access wiring in that part, and looking to be able to pop my head through them and grab stuff in the part of the building that has overhead shelves. And of course I have some funky angles, a height transition, and I have to work around the suspension pieces of a garage door. A more traditional suspended grid could work in the 12 and 14 foot ceiling part I suppose, but the 8 foot section needs to lose as little as it can.
You will loose a minimum of 4" ceiling height with a suspended ceiling.
Screw panels direct to joists. Unscrew when access is needed.
Finish the ceiling the way you want, put in raceways or larger conduit to pull wire for future needs, and install access doors in strategic places.
You can always put in a soffit around the area that you might need to run stuff in the future. Just throw in some access points.
I'm not putting up drywall because if I did I'd make myself finish it properly and I don't want to do that. Just found this: Ceiling Link which looks like it could work well for the 8 foot room.
Here's your answer. You only loose about .5 to .75" of height, paintable, water-proof, mold-proof, allow access to pipes, and don't look like a grid when done.
http://zipupceilings.com
I know that you have seen my build thread. Had the same requirements.
Do it again, id use the same products, only cut down into 2x2 chunks with white screws. I think that would be perfect for your situation.
I have read your thread, and that's what has me looking for alternatives. I like what you did, but maybe, just maybe, there's another idea. 
I hope for your sake. Im so berkeleyingsick that ceiling.
And I still haven't finished.
I have a crapload of the standard fiberglass tiles and metal track(all white) that you or anyone else is welcome to for free. Probably 200-300 sq-ft of it.
Attach 1x4s directly to bottoms of joists. Cut drywall to 14-1/4" (assuming 16" centers) "strips." Finagle drywall "panels" into place.
You'll lose 3/4" and have access to any area.
If you have scrap "plywood" left over, you could rip that into 3-4" strips in lieu of 1x4s.
Cheap, easy and it doesn't have to be done all at once.
RossD wrote: Finish the ceiling the way you want, put in raceways or larger conduit to pull wire for future needs, and install access doors in strategic places. You can always put in a soffit around the area that you might need to run stuff in the future. Just throw in some access points. 
SketchUp! Awesomeness!
dimarra wrote: Attach 1x4s directly to bottoms of joists. Cut drywall to 14-1/4" (assuming 16" centers) "strips." Finagle drywall "panels" into place. You'll lose 3/4" and have access to any area. If you have scrap "plywood" left over, you could rip that into 3-4" strips in lieu of 1x4s. Cheap, easy and it doesn't have to be done all at once.
A little more than 3/4". 3/4" for the 1x plus 1/2" or so for the drywall. But either way, that's what I'd do as well if a ceiling was mandatory. For those areas where you said you would need to access shelves (still trying to visualize this part), go with hinged plywood panels.
Or... just paint the joists and sub-floor above white and leave it exposed. It's a shop, not the Taj Mahal... Plus, leaving it open will allow you to hang lights in the joist space, thus giving maximum head-room when swinging crap around.
Ian F wrote:dimarra wrote: Attach 1x4s directly to bottoms of joists. Cut drywall to 14-1/4" (assuming 16" centers) "strips." Finagle drywall "panels" into place. You'll lose 3/4" and have access to any area. If you have scrap "plywood" left over, you could rip that into 3-4" strips in lieu of 1x4s. Cheap, easy and it doesn't have to be done all at once.A little more than 3/4". 3/4" for the 1x plus 1/2" or so for the drywall...
No. Just 3/4. (I didn't explain it very well.)
Think of a drop ceiling. There's grid and tiles laying in it.
In this case the 1x4s under the joists become the "grid." The drywall is cut to fit between the joists, laying on TOP of the 1x4s, becoming the "tiles."
The 1x4s are attached linearly along the joists, forming upside-down "T"s, not spanning them.
If you are looking for cheap for a garage screw corrugated metal roofing to the joists. Any area that you have to get into can either be unscrewed or for easier/convenient access hinge that particular piece. Cheap/easy/effective and when the white side is exposed really reflects light into your workspace.
mazdeuce wrote: I'm not putting up drywall because if I did I'd make myself finish it properly and I don't want to do that. Just found this: Ceiling Link which looks like it could work well for the 8 foot room.
Son of a bitch. That could've saved me some time and money. That + toyman's corrugated steel tile suggestion = win.
In reply to ProDarwin:
That's the direction I'm leaning. The good thing about corrugated metal or plastic is that it naturally overlaps. I don't even need to do cross pieces.
Zombie thread, canoe removed
SVreX said:You will loose a minimum of 4" ceiling height with a suspended ceiling.
Screw panels direct to joists. Unscrew when access is needed.
Thats what i did with my shop.
Do NOT make the pieces 4x8. Cut the panels to 4x4 and make pife easier on yoursrlf.
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