My nephew has requested assistance in building his Visible V8 model kit. Does anyone know of any special tips/tricks/pitfalls?
My previous polymer powerplant project experience includes my brother and I building a Visible Wankel long ago.
Thinking about that one led to finding this trip down memory lane:
Do they still make that Visible V8 model, or is this an old one? I always thought they were cool.
The only thing I can think of is to be careful using model cement, it makes a mess on clear plastic parts.
I got the Visible 4-cylinder kit for my nephew for Christmas a few years ago. He and his dad and I built it at the kitchen table Christmas day - it was a lot of fun.
My 13 year old is just finishing up a straight 6. It's pretty simple with good instructions but he still needed help a couple times. Mostly from going too fast and not reading the instructions.
Just like I do with my motors, last night he was taking the head off for the third time.......
The only thing I can add after doing some model building after taking a long time off:
I am not sure anyone even used tube plastic cement anymore. The way to go is a sort of brush on very liquid cement. Much easier to use, less messy and will seep into cracks if needed. Less likely to mess up the clear plastic (because you tend to use less and it's easier to get is where you want it) which is a bit bonus for a kit like that.
Another way you can go is with super glue type cement.
+1 on super glue instead of regular cement, and clean all the mold seams and attachment points well. In some spots it will make a difference in how smoothly it moves. And remember to have fun.
stuart in mn wrote: Do they still make that Visible V8 model, or is this an old one? I always thought they were cool.
Of course they do:
http://www.amazon.com/Revell-Visible-V-8-Engine-Scale/dp/B00004YUXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388420311&sr=8-1&keywords=visible+v-8+model+engine+kit
I still have my old Visible turbo-4 model from 30 years ago.
If you use super glue, use the gel, not the liquid. It's a lot easier to control where you put it, so you don't end up gluing yourself to your model. Otherwise, use liquid cement. Tamiya, Model Master, and Pro Weld are good, but they tend to craze clear parts. Be sure to have good ventilation. They have some nasty stuff in them, like MEK.
BenB wrote: If you use super glue, use the gel, not the liquid. It's a lot easier to control where you put it, so you don't end up gluing yourself to your model...
Important Point: Don't get it on your Hotus!!!
BenB wrote: If you use super glue, use the gel, not the liquid. It's a lot easier to control where you put it, so you don't end up gluing yourself to your model. Otherwise, use liquid cement. Tamiya, Model Master, and Pro Weld are good, but they tend to craze clear parts. Be sure to have good ventilation. They have some nasty stuff in them, like MEK.
I worked in a plastic factory for a year before going to college. Nasty place, reminiscent of pre-industrial revolution. We had to use MEK to clean out the machine hoppers - that stuff made me so high I once fell off a step ladder and knocked over several cartons of little plastic balls which scattered all over the factory floor like thousands of marbles. Almost got fired for that one.
I actually wouldn't recommend super glue for anything with moving parts. Its easier to work with, dries WAAAAY faster and, in gel form, is pretty easy to control BUT used on polystyrene it forms a very brittle bond. I haven't built any of the "visible" motor models, but I never use superglue on anything I don't have to because the bonds tend to pop, especially if subject to any sort of force. Also, if you use it in any sort of an "enclosed" area, it will craze the plastic worse than model cement, especially if the plastic has any oils from his skin on it. (On the other hand, your son will get a "how do the police dust for prints" lesson, so maybe that's not a bad thing)
I'd have him use this stuff http://www.testors.com/product/0/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic, take his time and keep his work clean. (Important lessons if he ever decides to build a "non-visible" V8!)
aircooled wrote: Another way you can go is with super glue type cement.
Super glue is a disaster anywhere even near clear plastic. The fuming for fingerprints stuff you see on TV? Yep, works pretty much just like that (though admittedly less so unless you use a whole bunch).
Are there any more modern models like this available?
Ummm.. Memories... Don't use petroleum based oil as a lube. It's bad for the plastic parts. Don't be tempted to use more voltage from more batteries or maybe a slotcar or train transformer to make the engine spin faster. Seriously...
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