Vacuum Canister help. In line?

My 70 F100 is up and running. However my vacuum assisted brakes are not doing so well with the .598 lift hydraulic cam. Frankly it's terrifying. I have enough vacuum for the trans.

I can mount a regular old vacuum canister or even a chrome Jegs one, however space is limited and my engine bay is cluttered with wiring and hoses.

The question is... Can I just put an air compressor check valve on a screw type 3/8 in line fuel filter (gutted or not) in line and use that for a capacity booster. Or am I missing something?

Just wanting a little feedback.

There's no magic to it, it's just a container with a check valve on it, intake on one side and brake booster (and other vacuum-powered stuff) on the other. As long as the fuel filter doesn't collapse it'll work. Volume is important though, an inline fuel filter might be too small.

Might want to go to a junkyard and shop around for the vacuum pumps used on turbo bricks and the like. Probably can get one cheap. darn effective.

^ good idea, it's compact, and you won't have to worry about vacuum being depleted due to extended low-vac intake conditions or having a reservoir the size of a teacup.

Electric vacuum pumps are 280.00 new and just as big as a regular canister plus they add another hot wire and ground. If they were smaller it may be a little more viable. Not too many turbo buicks in the junkyard. I'd have spotted it by now. If you see any used online I may look harder into it.

Fuel filters for fuel injected/diesel applications would never collapse. They are steel. I was thinking 8oz capacity may get me by but wasn't sure. I have spare check valves for my air compressor.

Thank you for quick responses. I have a 4 wheeler to fix, truck bed welding then trailering to Evansville and driving my Met to Nashville in store before I get to this project.

I'm pretty sure i paid something like $35 for the vacuum canister i run on the Escort for similar reasons.

Can you do away with the booster and use a manual setup from an earlier truck or a set of Tilton/Wilwood double hung pedals from a wrecked circle track car?

Maybe just a longer pedal... or move the pivot to add leverage, etc?

Swank Force One wrote: I'm pretty sure i paid something like $35 for the vacuum canister i run on the Escort for similar reasons.

ZX2's have a nice small one for the heater doors. Behind the glove box.

Could you seal up a frame rail and use it as vacuum storage?

http://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/2011/11/03/working-in-a-vacuum/

I just found a very interesting twist on a vacuum canister. It is a single port canister with a vacuum line 'T' I don't believe they are utilizing a check valve but I believe that would round out such a unit nicely.

Thursday when I buy a battery and a cpl 4 wheeler tires I plan to get a vacuum gauge. If I'm pulling 13 plus ill put on this canister. If not I will be getting an electric unit. Probably off an Audi or Saab and hard wiring it.

I like the frame idea but I doubt I'd Seal the whole thing. However I'm not above stashing a pipe in there with this single port design.

FranktheTank wrote: Electric vacuum pumps are 280.00 new and just as big as a regular canister

I've no doubt you can find massive vacuum pumps that do cost upwards of three hundred dollars, like you say. That's why I said go to a junkyard and shop for ones from like a turbo brick and such. They are small, about the size of a coffee cup, and cost in the neighborhood of $20-40.

If doing a hot and ground wire really are daunting, on that I can't help, other than to say it's really not that bad a job running those two wires.

This is what i used, with a vacuum gauge from Summit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-X7-UNIVERSAL-CHEVY-BLACK-VACUUM-RESERVOIR-KIT-/271184692029?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f23de033d

Whole setup including gauge ran me about $45, with no fab work, and no time invested other than clicking a mouse button.