Streetwiseguy wrote:
I are watching with big interest, for I still own an 82 Camaro. Next, get to work on adapting something onto the drum brake rear for me, ok?
Have you done any master cylinder math yet?
i might be putting the bits and pieces that are left over from the 94 Caprice i used to own on the back. i already added a lot of lightness to the caliper mounts by getting rid of that silly parking brake stuff:
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/226794_10152438855285441_40294255_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/307510_10152439001655441_1269918946_n.jpg)
also might run 84-86 Vette front rotors on the rear with the Caprice brackets and calipers..
or i might go with the same application as the fronts- 2000 Camaro- just to keep everything easy to remember..
as far as master cylinder- with the rear drums, it'll be a master cylinder for a 77 Chevelle with manual brakes because that's what i used on my 71 Nova a decade ago and becuase power brakes are for girls and old people..
if i go rear discs it will be a late 60's Corvette manual master cylinder and then tune from there...
novaderrik wrote:
that is a blind hole with the tap hovering over it in the pic.. i run the bridgeport nice and slow and let the tap pull itself into the part, then if it does bottom out the tap just spins in the chuck until i can flip the switch the other way and let the tap pull itself out of the part.. but i always try to not let it bottom out.. might not be the "proper" way to do it gets the job done..
I wasn't critiquing your methods, just remembering things I have done!![](/media/img/icons/smilies/laugh-18.png)
I've detonated a tap in a high dollar part using a bridgeport because the spindle didn't stop when I wanted it to! I promptly moved the part to an old, haggard Cincinatti radial drill, removed the tap and finished it up. I liked how I could "coast" the spindle on the radial drill and it had enough of a flywheel effect that the tap wouldn't seize up in the hole yet I could throw the lever and switch directions in the blink of an eye.
Man I miss working in that shop!
here's a few pics of how the bracket holds it all together:
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/35525_10152608242540441_1257443754_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421950_10152608242460441_946059086_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/58828_10152608242480441_304053312_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/379370_10152608242430441_1709963885_n.jpg)
it only took me 3 tries before i nailed down the final hole placement.
just need a few minor parts, blast and paint everything, pack the bearings, and put it all together..
I'm now wondering what it would take to get this done on a G body. Hmmm...time for some research.
Clem
just hung everything up and fogged some semi gloss black Rustoleum on it all..
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/485237_10152616184940441_1950144079_n.jpg)
ClemSparks wrote:
I'm now wondering what it would take to get this done on a G body. Hmmm...time for some research.
Clem
pretty sure i've got the brackets and camaro brakes sitting around somewhere for that job, as it was the same for my sonoma. i never bothered on the truck because it was so light it stopped fine with stock parts.
here's my final mockup pics.. everything fits, everything clears, and i just need to pack the bearings, install the grease seals, and shorten up the Dorman caliper mounting bolts for a Ford application:
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/521349_10152619416000441_1897937422_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/64764_10152619416215441_738443132_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/559838_10152619416115441_1857060599_n.jpg )
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/307319_10152619416555441_1127366259_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/207334_10152619416810441_2016600716_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/13889_10152619416925441_967726617_n.jpg)
oh, yeah, i'm also going to paint the aluminum calipers the same black as everything else once i know they don't leak... just wanna make them disappear...
one other thing i might do is to shoot a fog coat of black onto the rotors to keep them from turning that lovely orange color from rust.. but i might just leave them bare to give everything that "i'm stock, nothing to see here" kinda vibe...
here's a parts list, for anyone that wants to replicate this. these are all NAPA part numbers..
2000 Camaro:
front rotors 4886641 (2 req)
caliper, front left: SE524A
caliper, front right: SE243A
brake pads, OE premium grade: SS-7618-X
86 Camaro:
front rotors to make hub (Bendix) PRT1233 (2 req)
(NAPA site is down as i type this, but that's the rotor part number i found at Summit)
wheel bearing, front inner: BR6 ( 2 req)
wheel bearing, front outer: BR34 (2 req)
wheel grease seal: 19984 (2 req)
spindle lock nut kit: 630-1523 (2 req)
dust cap: 730-2438 (2 req)
misc stuff:
bracket to spindle:
M12X1.25 X 20mm long grade 10.9 bolts (2 req per side)
caliper basket to bracket:
M12X1.75X 30mm grade 10.9 bolts (2 req per side)
or
Dorman/Motormite Ford caliper bolts: 13898 (2 req)
didn't take any pictures of it, but i test fit a couple of wheels on it today...
a "rear" 16X8 Trans Am GTA wheel cleared the caliper by about .060 on the outer edge of the caliper, and the front of the caliper rubbed the spokes until i put a 3/16" spacer in there.. but it clears, so that's cool...
while i was out in the barn rooting around trying to find the wheel spacer, i stumbled across a 15X8 steel wheel from a mid 80's Chevy pickup that i had crudely attempted to drill the 5X4.75 bolt pattern in to check fitment on my Nova way back in the day, so i grabbed that... it wouldn't slide over the studs for some reason, but it sure looked like it would fit if it did... might have to grab one of the other wheels and take it to work to drill the stud holes to the proper bolt pattern on an actual mill to see if it clears.. if it does, then that opens up the world of some 15" wheels to clear these big brakes- oh how i'd love a set of 15X10 Aero stock car wheels on it with some 295/50/15's just to make it look super badass ![](/media/img/icons/smilies/evil-18.png)
Wally
UltimaDork
2/24/13 11:32 p.m.
If the 15" aero wheels fit and I can re drill my Monte hubs for 5x5 wheels this could solve a few problems on my SS.
why would you need to drill to 5X5? you can get the wheels in any of the popular rwd 5 bolt patterns. unless you think you need the expensive NASCAR spec wheels for some reason...
Wally
UltimaDork
2/25/13 8:42 a.m.
I don't need them, but I was given a set of used ones. I'd like to use them if I could.
ahh.. i see... but you'd need to redrill the brake rotors, too, which makes things just that much more complicated when you need to get rotors down the road..
made moar progress... if you call pressing in longer studs "progress".. makes for good pitchers, tho..
Dorman 610-323 studs.. about a buck a piece at NAPA..
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/531972_10152796268985441_1058378280_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/378220_10152796272445441_1790284076_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/431827_10152796277005441_1409854770_n.jpg)
![](https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/317469_10152796281065441_1360713470_n.jpg)
looks like these things will be going on the car in a couple of weeks- kinda lost ambition to do anything to the car since winter will not end... but now it seems like it's warming up and the driving season is upon us.. that, and i've got a 20 year class reunion in a few weeks and there's nothing better than a ragged 86 Camaro to make people you didn't like 20 years ago envious of the progress you've made in life since the last time you saw them and i can point at the big shiny brake rotors and say "i did that"...
rebelgtp wrote:
ClemSparks wrote:
I'm now wondering what it would take to get this done on a G body. Hmmm...time for some research.
Clem
My thoughts as well.
G body swap would be exactly the same with the exact same parts... the F body spindle was based on the G body spindle, except modified for the mac strut in the F body.. so you cut off the same stuff, drill/tap the same holes, make the same brackets, and make the hubs the same...
I will have to keep this in mind if I do a pro touring build.