loosecannon said:The stance is perfect the way you have it. I actually plan to lower the rear of the car anyways. I don't have any braking data for you. Would it help if I found a car in AC that stops like my car and you could use that data?
I think what would be best honestly (for everything, not just brakes) would be a few reference laps at a road course if you have something like that. Then you can run this car against that and we can dial in the differences.
TravisTheHuman said:loosecannon said:The stance is perfect the way you have it. I actually plan to lower the rear of the car anyways. I don't have any braking data for you. Would it help if I found a car in AC that stops like my car and you could use that data?
I think what would be best honestly (for everything, not just brakes) would be a few reference laps at a road course if you have something like that. Then you can run this car against that and we can dial in the differences.
Do you mean I should run my actual car on a road course and we use that as reference? The only track anywhere close to me is Gimli and it's a Mod track on AC
In reply to loosecannon :
My real world lap times were a big part of what helped me dial in the AC version of my car. And not just lap times, but max speed on straights and speed in corners. Being able to compare to the same tracks in the sim and tweak the car model allowed me to get the performance very close.
In reply to loosecannon :
You probably could just do a number of 60 to zero (or whatever) tests and get a good number, then compare in AC and tweak accordingly. Faster (be safe of course) is likely better for less variability. Being non-ABS, that might be get "interesting". Maybe 60-20?
I will get some 60-0 times as soon as the snow is gone and will try to get some lap times at Gimli, too. The next closest track is Brainerd or Road America and those are unlikely this year but maybe next year. In the meantime, I hope there is a Mod of my car that maybe if 95% accurate that I can practice on until I can get some numbers and get it closer to 100%
Any form of comparison would be helpful.
In the brakes.ini file the brakes have a max_torque value. I'm not sure there is an easy way to measure that directly, but ultimately we want similar on-track performance to your car, so that would be the best comparison. Brake power required scales with the square of speed, so the higher speed you can test the better. Its very likely that with upgraded brakes tires are the limiting factor at low speeds.
I'll be hands off on this for the next 2 weeks. I put the latest iteration up on the drive (rev002), feel free to screw around and let me know what you think. The to-do list in the excel file is up to date as well if any of you other guys want to jump in and make some changes.
loosecannon said:
The brakes are 14" discs in front with 6 piston calipers and the rear are 10" discs with 4 piston calipers. The fuel tank is in the stock location under the trunk just in front of the rear bumper. The diff is a Torsen T2R. I had no idea that the cars could be so accurate to the real thing, that's amazing.
I could math this to approximate the brake bias, but... do you know which lockup first? Its probably easiest to adjust it on the fly in game and then lock in that setting. Same with the diff.
In reply to TravisTheHuman :
I have adjustable bias so they all lock up at the same time. My car has similar weight, tire and brake size to a C6 ZR1 Vette, does that help? Can any of that data be transferred?
The two similar Corvettes in the base game (you always need to be a bit suspicious of custom made cars):
Corvette C4 ZR-1:
MAX_TORQUE=2984
C7 Stingray:
MAX_TORQUE=3150
So, somewhere around 3000-3100 would probably be a good starting point.
OK, I set the brake torque at 3100 and uploaded a Rev002. I included the livery with it. I left the 002 in there, just in case. Should be good for some testing: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gt9NbVrpdPYGqYn5r2bUE5KE4C1KKE1u
I also added an alternate livery, which, you know, might be an inspiration for you 
In reply to aircooled :
Awesome, I'll try it out tomorrow and let you know how it feels. Hey, it just occurred to me, does this car work with the D-Box full motion simulators because my rig has the D-Box
I don't think that has anything to do with the car model. If other AC cars work with it, I don't think there is any reason this one would not.
BTW the car shows in the car listing as "Loosecannon Camao" under the "TBD" brand (depending on how you look it up) I have a crap ton of cars installed which can make cars hard to find sometimes.
aircooled said:OK, I set the brake torque at 3100 and uploaded a Rev002. I included the livery with it. I left the 002 in there, just in case. Should be good for some testing: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gt9NbVrpdPYGqYn5r2bUE5KE4C1KKE1u
I also added an alternate livery, which, you know, might be an inspiration for you
Hay!!!! 😁🤣🤪
Quick question. Am I correct in believing that the front bumper shadow is actually included in the livery, and it could be removed by someone that can do textures?
In reply to Piguin :
Yeah, that's I the skin. I can take it off easily.
Did you open up the model? If so, see if you can remove those chrome hood vents. The below number holes appear to be in the model also.
I have removed the vents, and reconstructed the hood but there is a mesh texture applied, probably also from the skin.
I have some reading to do regarding projection of the skin on the mesh since it gets distorted after messing with the polygons. My experience with blender has been with low poly flat shading, so I need to catch up to how normal people do things. :)
WIP
Ok, I had a chance to try rev002 and rev003. I tried rev003 first and the car would not accelerate, it was like it was running on 2 cylinders. Then I tried rev002 and it did the exact same thing until I turned the TC off. It accelerated just fine with the TC off but it felt slow. I ran a couple of laps of the Nordschleife and the handling and braking were very good. To see if the car was actually slow, I tried drag racing it and it's a full second slower in the 1/4 mile than my car. My car will do it in 12.0 all day long but I ran 13.0 with rev002. everything else is awesome, though. Just the TC and power need to be adjusted
I can do a quick % increase in power. Based on an online calculator, it looks like it needs another 100hp or so.
It doesn't look like TC is setup for the car, so if you are activating it somehow, that may be the issue. It can be setup to be adjustable, so that is a potential option.
There is no TC implemented yet. How did you turn it on/off? I wonder if something else is causing the issue?
The numbers seem correct, but honestly one of my first thoughts was "this doesn't feel like a 550whp car". That could just be due to 315 wide semi slicks though.
All the math is in the power tab of the spreadsheet if you want to take a look under the hood so to speak.
I can swap the TC files in tomorrow if you want. It will give you TC and ABS.
dean1484 said:I can swap the TC files in tomorrow if you want. It will give you TC and ABS.
I don't want ABS but different levels of TC would be nice because my car actually has 6 levels of TC. Are you giving the car 550 hp at the wheels or the crank? My car has about 675 at the crank and it feels like it. I also felt like the car was off by 100 hp. I feel like the lateral G's were correct for my car, the 315 wide semi slicks are a good stand in for my tires. When I first put the car in the sim. I just drove it, the TC was already active. I turned it off with a knob on the steering wheel.
558 at the wheels.
TravisTheHuman said:558 at the wheels.
well, all I know is that the real car feels faster and is faster in the 1/4 mile. If you can add about 100 hp and fix the TC, I think we have a real winner. I'm going to try it on an autocross course soon and will let you know how that feels
As someone who has some experience with simulations in an engineering setting but no experience setting up a racing sim I'm really enjoying this thread. I'm impressed with capabilities of the software you're using.
I just did a bunch of laps of the 2022 East and West Solo Nationals courses and tried a few different suspension settings and just couldn't tune the push out of it. Still fun, but pushy. I got within 2 seconds of the winning CAM-T times but think with a little less push, I could almost match it. What weight is the car set to? My car is 3300 with me in it, or 3100 lbs empty.
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