Time to build a bike or not?

I currently have a Fuji Cross cyclocross bike which I have converted to road use (road wheelset/tires, aero bars, etc) but lately I have gotten the itch to build/tinker on a bike I have thought about for a while. My idea is something like this: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington1_IX.htm

Take a road bike with stem shifters and swap the drop bars to bull horn bars like these: http://www.profile-design.com/profile-design/products/base-bars/aluminum-base-bars/airwing.html

I would go to time trial brake levers as well. I like drop bars but don't use them as much as I thought I would. It might be easier on my back as well. I could probably get a decent return on my Fuji Cross. Do I dare pull the trigger and do it?

I can guarantee every part on your Fuji would outlast everything on that BikesDirect bike and you would be better off replacing parts on the Fuji. Stem mounted shifters are universally crap.

If you want to try TT bars find some cheap used flat bar shifters in the same speed as your current bike, add the bars and brake levers. If you find you really like it, sell the road shifters you took off and probably come out even.

I'd echo asterisk's thoughts there. The bike you linked to is certainly worse than your Fuji. You would be better off keeping your frame and switching controls and bars than starting over with that Windsor.

The TT bars will probably have you stooped over more than you are on your drops currently. I would say experiment with a higher stem, and if that doesn't help try moustache bars or maybe a riser bar. Get your hands up higher and that may make you more comfortable.

It's hard to give advice for you not knowing your details. How big are you? What size frame is the Fuji?

The bike is a 50 cm frame and I am about 5'6-5'7ish..

If you want something similar but not quite drop bars, maybe you will like the"Gary Bar."

I bought one simply because it was on sale for cheaper than the regular drop bars when I needed something to put back o my road bike. They are quite comfy; a bit wider than drop bars, but higher up than the drops on regular bars. It is intended for offroad use, but it doesn't matter as far as I am concerned.

TT bars are built to emulate drops when you are riding on the brake hoods... they eliminate A LOT of hand positions... not a bad thing when you are riding in a controlled very fast short burst environment... not so good when you are out for varied lengths of time in all kinds of riding...

for those that know me on here they know i'm a tall fatty... about a year ago I sold all my bikes to help fund a mission trip but my roaddie I was on a 65cm steel lugged frame and could have gone a bit larger (if I could have found something larger)... I built it up with bar-con shifters (bar end shifters) a raised stem and a shallow drop "compact" drop bar... it put the drops in reach in spite of my gut (including the shifters) and the flat bar section was very upright while the hoods gave me a nice laid out feel... yes it looked funny but so does my fat arse in bibs... I don't ride to look the part... I ride for myself and because I enjoy it.

if you want to build something then I'd try and find something used and build up (higher end steel from the 80's or 90's is great fun and rides so nicely)... biggest prob is the hippster crowd nabs em up pretty quickly.

but even buying used the biggest rule in cycling is fit... yes you can massage a frame that doesn't quite fit you... but even a few MM can make a HUGE difference in if you're comfy for hrs on end or you are in agony within min... (and thats where the LBS plug comes in... they should be able to properly fit you to a bike)

i'd keep what you have for now or if you do sell sell to buy something used and build from there... i'm still impressed with some of what bikes direct offers for the price... but even their higher end bikes need properly gone though by a competent mechanic... what you get is the basic tossed together bits by someone in china so it'll fit in the box... (the same as your LBS gets em)... the difference is when your LBS gets the bike they go though and true the wheels, verify

TT bars are built to emulate drops when you are riding on the brake hoods... they eliminate A LOT of hand positions... not a bad thing when you are riding in a controlled very fast short burst environment... not so good when you are out for varied lengths of time in all kinds of riding...

for those that know me on here they know i'm a tall fatty... about a year ago I sold all my bikes to help fund a mission trip but my roaddie I was on a 65cm steel lugged frame and could have gone a bit larger (if I could have found something larger)... I built it up with bar-con shifters (bar end shifters) a raised stem and a shallow drop "compact" drop bar... it put the drops in reach in spite of my gut (including the shifters) and the flat bar section was very upright while the hoods gave me a nice laid out feel... yes it looked funny but so does my fat arse in bibs... I don't ride to look the part... I ride for myself and because I enjoy it.

if you want to build something then I'd try and find something used and build up (higher end steel from the 80's or 90's is great fun and rides so nicely)... biggest prob is the hippster crowd nabs em up pretty quickly.

but even buying used the biggest rule in cycling is fit... yes you can massage a frame that doesn't quite fit you... but even a few MM can make a HUGE difference in if you're comfy for hrs on end or you are in agony within min... (and thats where the LBS plug comes in... they should be able to properly fit you to a bike)

i'd keep what you have for now or if you do sell sell to buy something used and build from there... i'm still impressed with some of what bikes direct offers for the price... but even their higher end bikes need properly gone though by a competent mechanic... what you get is the basic tossed together bits by someone in china so it'll fit in the box... (the same as your LBS gets em)... the difference is when your LBS gets the bike they go though and true the wheels, torque everything properly and obviously assemble everything else properly...

Bike canoe.

pedals, paddles, whatever it takes.

Bicycles are more damage resistant than canoes.

All good advice. Barcons are great. They're almost bacon, so there's that. Plus they are stupid reliable because they can fall back to friction shifting if the derailleur or something gets bunged up bad. I love 'em.

Bastomatic is probably right. Bars are almost always better off a lot higher than anyone really places them. Get a long stem with shorter reach to get those bars up and close and all of a sudden you'll understand how great drops are. Bar placement relative to the seat and pedals is incredibly important.

P.S. If you like GRM, you'll love Sheldon Brown. RIP.