What did I do to destroy my chain so quick?

I've only ridden the 1980 CM200T a few times this year, but I could tell something was amiss. Upon deceleration I would hear a non-rhythmic "ting-ting-t-t-t-ting..." WTH? Turns out my chain is binding at random links. It took quite a bit of force to straighten some of them out.

What caused this? There is less than 1,500 miles on it. I lubed it way more frequently than the chain it replaced. I installed this chain new together with new gears, 40t stock on the rear and 16t up one one the front. Could this be the cause?

On the cover there is a knife like tab that bolts to the cover. I'm not sure but I think it acts as a keeper or follower for the chain. There is a shinny wear mark on the face. I used some white grease to check and it is hitting some links in their centers. But is this because the chain is screwed up, or did the follower mess up the chain? It is the correct sized chain, but could it have larger outside dimensions than the previous chain? The new chain was from Bikemaster.

I'm at a loss, as the chain seemed fine all last summer. I stored it in a semi heated garage this winter.

Help?

A larger front gear would be easier on the chain, not worse for wear. If you had good new gears installed at the same time as a good chain then I would assume the sprockets aren't lined up or the tension on the chain is all wrong.

Agreed on the misaligned sprockets.

O ring or non O ring chain? What are you lubing it with?

Bikemaster 428 HD, Roller, non-O ring. Lubed with PJ1 Black Label chain lube. I'd say once about every 400 mi.

If in fact the sprockets are misaligned, is there anyway to align them? Or is it just manufacturing tolerance stacking? I still have the original sprockets, and the configurations are no different.

Would a non-parallel rear axle accelerate the wear?

This wasn't noticeable until after I brought it out of storage from the winter. Coincidence?

Pull the chain off and soak it in oil, then let it hang to drain. Used oil will work.

Excellent. I will try this shortly. Thanks. If it still binds, its toast, right?

In reply to Zomby Woof:

I've been known to put it in a coffee can of used oil, and put it in the campfire, keep it just cool enough to not light off, let it boil for an hour or two. Don't do this with an o ring chain and don't let the can fall over!

if a chain is giving you and issue i would replace it. if it breaks while riding u can go down. if ur sprockets arent aligned right or if ur rear wheel is off it will try to bend the chain from side to side and chains arent meant to do that. good way to check is just look down the chain and use something straight as a guide. if its not u might need an offset sprocket or something along those lines

this is the new chain i put on my kz550 over the winter

You can check for misalignment with a straight edge or even a ruler along the rear sprocket. It should point to the front sprocket in the same area. I actually doubt this is the problem myself.

As long as you're doing this, admire the sprockets for wear. Not just the normal wear, but for side wear. If they are way out of alignment, you'll see some polishing or wearing of the sides.

Myself, I'm going to say rust. Water's gotten in there, and the links have rusted. Usually from sitting outside in rain storms and daily dew, damp sheds, etc. Spray on chain lubes are typically very thick, and tend not to get deeply into the chains, particularly into the links themselves. Hence the endless arguments on what type of lubricant to use on chains.

Taking the chain off to get it into a coffee can of grease or oil should give some indication of what's going on in the chain pins. I've heard of this method as well to try and cook grease into the chain. Give me an o-ring chain any day!

What kind of free play is in the chain with the wheel on the ground?

Doubt that misalignment of the sprockets would lead to kinks in the chain. As someone already said, there is rust in the joints.

Soak the chain in a can of used motor oil as suggested, and I like Kenny's idea of heating it too, I've never tried that, but I might next time.

Also, I've learned that you definitely get what you pay for with chains. I'm not familiar with Bikemaster, but I know from experience that a premium chain will often cost less in the long run. When I was racing dirtbikes I could get a whole season and then some from a Regina chain.

Motion Pro sells a nice tool but I find myself still liking my home made tool better. Go to the hardwear store get a length of 1/4 inch key stock. normaly come in 15-20 in sections. Clean one side with iso alky add a drop of Super Glue. Now clean the non edge side of a single edge razor blade and stick it to the key stock. Use a "C" clamp of a spring clamp to hold it to the rear sprocket in between the chain blade should be on the inside (sprocket side) now rotate the rear wheel until the blade is about to make contact with the chain if the blade slips into the link just kissing the link but not pushing it to the side the wheel in inline with the front sprocket. I'll normally "dykem" the swing arm and adjuster and then scribe new lines as factory stamping can be way off. this way minor adjustments made during the next few rides can be done quickly.

For storage over the winter, I'd use "chain wax"

Check here.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

I ran your numbers and the front sprocket is hitting the same link on EVERY revolution. That is apparently very hard on a chain.

singleslammer wrote: Check here. http://www.gearingcommander.com/ I ran your numbers and the front sprocket is hitting the same link on EVERY revolution. That is apparently very hard on a chain.

I can validate this, we had a problem with that on some dual sports we were modding at my shop.

The chain is in the oil as we speak. We'll see in a day or three. BTW, they do make O-ring chains in 428 size. I might opt for one.

I messed up on the sprocket teeth. Its actually 16T front, 35T rear. Stock was 15T/35T.

If you have a spare mason jar you can put a fitting in the lid and draw a vacuum to aid the removal of the air in the link and the oil penetrating the links. Before you go o-ring chain make sure it will fit!! lots of older bikes don't have the additional room at the counter shaft case area and some even at the rear shock.

Problem I see with just soaking it in oil is you've done nothing to get the rust grit out of there. I'd have suggested cleaning the chain first, then soaking the clean chain in oil. For cleaning, I'd have suggested something like a vinegar soak and swishing to get the rust off the steel, and then hopefully swish at least some of it out.

Boiling oil? That just makes it thicker when it cools because you're boiling off the more volatile parts. I don't see a gain from the practice.

It reduces the viscosity, and the ability of the oil to penetrate the chain.

If it has rusted inside, and that's what it sounds like, there's nothing you can do but lube it now, and hope it frees up. If it does, then use it until it wears out, then go with an O ring chain. Good point by Dwarf. It never occurred to me that it wouldn't fit, but a little internet research should give you that answer. It sounds like you don't ride the bike a lot, so if you do go O ring, you may never have to buy another chain. They last many times longer than a non O ring, and require very little maintenance, as the lubrication is inside, and kept there by the O ring's seal.

True, the boiling oil is thinner while boiling. Between that and the motion of it rising and falling from the heating/boiling, it will do a better job of penetrating into the links. I was thinking of afterwards. If you end up with essentially goo and tar, that's not going to be good for lubrication.

It may be a bunch of nothing anyhow, as I've really no idea how fast or how much of the thinner portions of the oil will be driven off by boiling the oil on a stove.

If you plug 16/35 into gear commander, you still get a 1 rev on the front sprocket. IE the same tooth is hitting the same link ever Rev. I think that you should considering dumping the 16.

That much of a difference between a 15 tooth and 16 tooth sprocket?

Two words . . . . . O-Ring. It'll cost significantly more at the time of purchase, but it'll live longer and need less maintenance.

Done and done. I put it on about a month ago.