RoughandReady
RoughandReady HalfDork
9/25/14 7:43 p.m.

Just finished up a round of B230FT/B21FT camshafts earlier this week. I've been offering them for sale on Turbobricks.com, and I thought I might as well post them up here.

Cams are ground from new CWC blanks with pre-hardened lobes. All cams have slotted ends for head mounted distributors. Great mild street cam for stock or near stock turbo engines (upgraded turbo, more boost, etc). Works well with stock valve train.

Specs:

Intake valve lift: .414

Exhaust valve lift: .472

Intake duration @ .050": 226°

Exhaust duration @ .050": 254°

Lobe separation: 113°

This grind is very similar to an RSI Stage I Turbo Camshaft.

All of these cams will come with a one years part/workmanship warranty. Cam break in lube will be included with the cam, and you'll have to break in the cam correctly. You will also need to re-shim your lifters for the correct valve lash. Warranty will be void if you run the engine out of oil, as that is no fault of the cam itself. Otherwise, if any problem should arise, I will either send you a new cam or give your money back (your choice). All cams will come with a written and signed warranty statement.

Three cams are available (Five were ground, one is sold and I'm keeping one).

Price is $250 shipped via Fedex Ground.

Email at Roughandreadyrebuilds@gmail.com.

Woody
Woody MegaDork
9/25/14 7:47 p.m.

I don't need one of these, but the idea of cam grinding fascinates and puzzles me. How exactly does that happen?

RoughandReady
RoughandReady HalfDork
9/25/14 8:16 p.m.
Woody wrote: I don't need one of these, but the idea of cam grinding fascinates and puzzles me. How exactly does that happen?

A master lobe is made, basically looks like a giant cam lobe. The machine works it back and forth in time with a grinder on the lobe on the camshaft itself. It's a cool process to watch. We start with blank cams with huge raw cast lobes. I've done some regrinds for some friends though, it just reduces the base circle on the lobe. On a regrind through, if the OEM isn't the best (cough cough GM) or not a steel billet, you have to have the lobes hardened again (which is expensive and takes a while).

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