Vigo wrote: No flaming from me! I'm hot rodding a FWD dodge after all!
No that I know of. I only test them by backprobing the wiring connector and reading the voltage swing. thought you might've tested it before you took it apart.
I didn't think you would flame me. I thought I would get flamed by your legions of Vigo groupies.
I didn't think you would flame me. I thought I would get flamed by your legions of Vigo groupies
I have those?! Maybe i should spend some time in front of a mirror and see what i'm missing. 
Awesome build, can't wait to see the finished beast 
I remember in high school a classmate had the 2 door version of that car, I thought I was cool in my Z24 and tried to race him at a stoplight...you can imagine my surprise 
I need a ride in this car at the Challenge.
Would you believe that even though I've had my CSX for over 3 years, I've never driven a Turbo Dodge?
Does your wideband not have narrowband simulation?
Nice build. I like the car.
Swank Force One wrote: Does your wideband not have narrowband simulation?
No, and that's pretty annoying. This is not a wideband i would have went out and bought, but it came in the parts deal. Autometer 5779. It does have a 0-4V output that is completely useless to me, though!
Would you believe that even though I've had my CSX for over 3 years, I've never driven a Turbo Dodge?
Wow, ye have LOTS of faith! I dont know if i could stand to dump time and money into them with no idea what it was going to get me. Don't get me wrong, i HAVE cars that have sat for years that i've never driven since buying, but usually i will go test drive someone else's before i buy. Anyway, i have no problem letting other people drive the car as long as they dont break my shifter as im rolling slicks over to the car and i dont get to make any good drag passes as happened in 09. 
Right now im working on the external walbro255 pump install. Gotta look for some 3/8-24 hose fittings.
In reply to Vigo:
I have only been in one TD my entire life, and that's my Team External Combustion teammate's '85 GLH (he's PunKid over on Turbo Mopar). That thing in stock T1 form made quite the impression on me. I've been in it after he converted to T2 and it was hilariously fast.
I've always liked the Shadow, but after attending a SDAC show back 5-6 years ago, I knew I had to have one and was hooked. When my CSX came up for sale on here locally, I jumped at the chance. The fuel injectors on it ALONE were worth what I paid for it. I pretty much sat in the car, fiddled with the pedals and shifter to see if I fit, and paid the money and dragged it home.
What the heck happened to cause that poor little Sundance to faceplant like that?!
I'm guessing 2-1 downshift from high rpm during a burnout, or an accidental transbrake application. Not totally sure.
Bout to go get the damn fuel pump fittings ive been stuck on for a couple hours. Supposed to pick up some Cherokee springs at 430.
So i got some Cherokee springs and some fuel pump fittings.
$30 bought me a pair of lift springs for the front of a cherokee of unknown brand and lift amount, as well as a pair of stock cherokee springs the guy threw in. I took a stock k-car rear spring with me to compare and everything looked workable.
I don't know if anyone has actually done this before or if it's something i made up. I have rear springs from a 67 Caprice coupe in one of my other cars.
I measured the stock wire diameter as ~.525 and the cherokee springs as ~.640. The actual coil pitch is pretty similar.
Also got the external walbro255 mounted. I cut 4 slots in the spare tire well with a cutoff wheel, stuck a flathead in them and bent them in the appropriate directions, and threaded hose clamps through the slots. I put a 90* fitting on the pump inlet because i didn't like how it was going to look without it. The ID on that fitting stepped down to something i didnt like so i ran a drill bit through it so it has a consistent ID.
I was having a hard time finding fittings because the pump is tapped for a 3/8-24 straight thread. Eventually i figured out 1/8 npt (which is a tapered thread) is 3/8-27 (iirc). CLOSE ENOUGH. So i went to lowes and got me some NPT fittings.
Still need to run the wiring for the pump. Im going to run a ~12ga dedicated power wire from the alternator charge post through a relay down the passenger side of the car. Maybe tomorrow.
Like the thread. How many build days left? 5? Yikes.
Counting today? I think 7?
I'm supposed to get a 3-bar map in the mail today. I need to get the chip burner back from my friend's house so i can get a proper computer calibration burned and installed.
I take E36 M3ty pictures at night.
Barely visible in this blurry image is the 12ga power feed coming off the alt charging post. It runs along the AC low side hose (where there is a fuse holder you cant see) to a relay i mounted next to the AC drier. The relay coil is energized by a wire going to the coil positive terminal and grounded through the mounting bolt. So, from there on the wire is only hot when the ASD relay is on. The wire basically follows the fuel lines from the firewall all the way back to the external pump.
Supposedly we are going to get a lot done in the next 2 days.. Should be fun.
Got my 3-bar map sensor and it is ok as far as i can tell. I havent burned a 3-bar cal for the car yet. There are still some 'basics' that need to be nailed down before we start tuning. But it won't be long, now..
I pulled my motor today. Is your old lady car gonna hang?
E36 M3, who knows. But it has started every time i've tried for the last couple weeks, so that's good. 
Got a lot of stuff done today!
Replaced the dead 3-wire o2 sensor with a 4-wire o2 sensor i pulled off a motor that has been sitting in the rain for at least 4 years. It works.
Reset the fuel pressure closer to where it should be with normal fuel trims.
Zip tied all the vacuum lines under the hood.
Made an overflow bottle.
Put a working radiator cap on the car.
Painted the gauge panel black and screwed it down.
Fixed the driver's door power window that decided to break a week ago.
Found out i lost half the odd-ball fasteners required to reassemble the back seat. 
Knocked the rust off the ugly quarter panel and began "repairs".
Chopped and installed the Jeep springs.
Installed a rear sway bar.
Vacuumed the interior and reinstalled some trim stuff.
Took the car on a ~7 mile test drive. "Yup, it works. Stupid rich. Need more boost."
Installed a better driver's seat for 'high performance driving'.
Jeep springs. Got the cut right on the first try for once!
Surface rust removal on 1/4 panel.
Gauge plate. Wish we had time for nitrous install so i could add some switches to that empty space!
Seat we swapped in. It's from a Daytona Shelby Z, i believe. It has power adjustable 'wings' on top and bottom and an inflatable lumbar adjustment. When i brought the Aries to 09 Challenge it literally had h-body (Lancer et al) seats in it and i was so unsupported i had to drive with one arm hugging the outside of the door for support. This one actually tightens up enough to feel very sporty with the wings. I have a matching pass seat and would like to eventually get them upholstered to match the car.
More work and pics tomorrow!
Looks awesome! Really like the black gauge panel. Wait till you see mine. Not so nice.
The black panel is actually clear acrylic with some coats of spray paint.
Well, Matt and I sat down with a chip burner and got a 3-bar map / 550cc injector cal in the car and more or less functional.
Found out my knock sensor is on the fritz so i've got to replace that.
The calibration is supposed to have an anti-lag+staging limiter functionality which i want so i can brake-boost up to at least 10-12psi. So far tonight it did not work but i MAY have seen a coolant temp problem when scrolling through scanner stuff to find my messed up knock sensor data, so i will investigate that first. The anti-lag is set to only come on with coolant temp over 100f.
Also thought there may have been a boost control problem since i was getting 5psi and then creeping to cutout/15psi on stock cal. I think the boost controller was just turned down too many turns and making me think it wasnt doing anything because it was out of its working range. I got my minimum boost up but i think it is still creeping. I won't figure that out for sure until i have a good knock sensor in it.
Gonna go back out in a few minutes and see if i can verify coolant temp signal and change out the knock sensor.
Lancer Shelby/Shelby Lancer
So i found out the CTS is fine, no easy fix on the anti-lag... I am wondering if the ECU is not getting the brake switch signal for some reason. Anti-lag is supposed to activate when the brake switch sees you on the brakes, above 2200 rpm, above 100f coolant temp, above 4.0v TPS, at which point it retards timing by an adjustable amount (i have it set to -8 degrees). I can switch the brake switch input to something else like an ac or cruise control input, but i have to reburn the chip to do that so i will wait until i have some fuel/spark changes to make before i bother with it.
I also decided to drive the car 40+ miles to go pick up its rear bumper from my friend's house instead of changing the knock sensor. I'll do that in the morning.
The power is way off right now due to running way too rich and having timing retarded from the false knock counts.
On a hard right turn i have a bad wobble/bind feeling from the front left. I think the axle might be bottoming out. I'm going to try to shift the drivetrain over a little bit and see if it clears up. These cars have probably an inch or more of side-to-side adjustability in the mounts.
We did not get the rear axle welded up with a plate to box it in. The jeep springs are not as stiff as i would have hoped for, but still a good improvement for $30. The combination of the unwelded axle, mild springs, and external swaybar is that it's STILL pretty pushy. I guess if it won't turn at the autox i will put the street tires back on the back and air em up to 60 psi.
I can brakeboost to 7 psi now. If i can't fix that anti-lag or get it any higher with the boost controller im just going to advance the cam gear!
I am so looking forward to seeing this car in G'ville. The Turbo Dodge contingency (mafia?) should all pit close so we can offer help, share tools, etc. I'm bringing a generator and air compressor and air tools. If someone has a small 110 welder they can bring we can run it if necessary.
Vigo wrote: We did not get the rear axle welded up with a plate to box it in. The jeep springs are not as stiff as i would have hoped for, but still a good improvement for $30. The combination of the unwelded axle, mild springs, and external swaybar is that it's STILL pretty pushy. I guess if it won't turn at the autox i will put the street tires back on the back and air em up to 60 psi.
cough Cheap/easy K-Car rear sway bar cough
All available at the local Home Depot Racing Supply Store. Get a few pieces of steel so you can add/remove plates to tune the oversteer (two should be sufficient in combination with your springs).
Sounds like you're in good shape! Good luck!
You'll need to log in to post.
