I like the ramp truck idea. You can load the boat and trailer onto the ramp and tow the Airstream to your camping destination. Drop the Airstream then drag the boat to the water, or substitute race car for the boat. Build an extended cab for the family and off you go. It's just that easy right?
About the Jiffy Mix, add in fresh jalapenos and cheese to the mix and you have some delicious Mexican cornbread.
Honestly, I feel like your much better off keeping a gooseneck set up on the truck. And build a bed with boxes for storage and space for a spare tire or two for Ferdinand. The gooseneck trailers tow sooooo much better than the bumper pull ones, and it's not very hard at all to convert an existing bumper pull to a gooseneck set up. It's also a lot easier to get a lowered car into a trailer than it is on to the back of a ramp truck. I'm also willing to bet that some trucking company or hotshotter would pick that thing up from you when your done with it if you went with that kind of setup.
Big and gnarly. Driveble. AC. I can see this being my only truck at some point if I can do a good enough job with it. At least my summer truck. Use it to run to town. Bring it to local car shows and let kids climb up in the cab. Tow project cars home. And yes, it's set up perfectly for a gooseneck.
Wore out two wire wheels today. I'm starting to hate wire wheels. I need to stop at harbor freight and buy more wire wheels.
Wirewheels, throwing tiny shards of steel into your shins since the Roman Empire.
Too bad they are still the best way to strip stuff.
FWIW. I quit buying HF wire wheels in favor of Forney wheels.
They seem to work better, but definitely also last many times longer with fewer bits stuck in my bits.
Available at most independent hardware stores. I get them at the steel yard for like $7 for the cup brushes. Standard wheels are a tiny bit cheaper too, but I rarely use them.
Are you using knotted cups or just the plain wheels? I find the knotted cups last much longer.
My shirt and stickers arrived! Thanks, it's great and going to the track meet tonight at my daughter's school.
You might also want to try a needle scaler air tool for the rust instead of or before you use the wire brush. I think the air ones are under $20 at hf.
And shirt and stickers made it back to Ferdinand's old home.
Sunny approves. 
In reply to bluej :
That's the best thing I've seen all day! What a happy dog! I needed that.
In reply to Hammeringman :
Made me smile too!
If you guys like a sweet cornbread then Marie Callender's mix is worth a try, specifically the honey butter version. Whenever I make a batch of Jiffy I somehow make it grainy :/
DeadSkunk said:I see the CEO of Chelsea Milling Co. at the gym all the time. I'll have to tell him that Jiffy Mix has become a topic on GRM.
Give him a high five for me. And if he wants a shirt, I'll totally iron one up for him. 
In reply to bluej :
Mrs. Deuce approves of both the dog and the inside toolbox. The world needs more inside toolboxes.
mazdeuce said:Big and gnarly. Driveble. AC. I can see this being my only truck at some point if I can do a good enough job with it. At least my summer truck. Use it to run to town. Bring it to local car shows and let kids climb up in the cab. Tow project cars home. And yes, it's set up perfectly for a gooseneck.
Wore out two wire wheels today. I'm starting to hate wire wheels. I need to stop at harbor freight and buy more wire wheels.
Photo of a guy who really needs a sandblaster.
This seals it, the next batch of shirts I make will be in kids sizes.
And thanks to everyone else for the posts and emails and pictures. You guys are doing genuine good in the world. I'm proud of you.
Mixed 8oz of paint with 1/2 oz of hardener (this is an old unopened can, does hardener go bad?) And did a bit of test painting. Some areas got one coat, some two coats separated by half an hour. Horizontal and vertical surfaces. Surfaces that had been rusty and surfaces that were clean. A bit of everything.
I'm not super happy. It's black and shiny, seems to cover good, but my technique sucks. I think I need to use up and down strokes on the vertical parts. Horizontal parts flowed ok and look ok. I'll let it harden and see what sort of adhesion I have.
In reply to mazdeuce :
Try a weenie roller!
use a 3-4in roller. You can see the flow lines, but they aren't too bad... :P
At least the pick-up guy has a piece of back-up timber for safety!
In reply to NOHOME :
The actual cab kick stand is still in place. The 2x4 IS the backup.
Stopped and bought a weenie roller. Not sure how Mrs. Deuce is going to feel about that.
Re: kids shirts.... I will take 5 in 3t through 5t. Pink please.
Insert take my money meme here....
How clean of a finish are you after?
Two things stand out to me.
First, and easiest to fix, is you're putting it on too heavily. I don't know what kind of film thickness is recommended per coat, but it's super thin compared to typical house paint, or even Rust-Oleum. I'd imagine with a brush you'd be spreading it until it stops covering and starts streaking, then going back over it again without adding paint just to level. Switching to a roller will solve a lot of it, but you still have to dry roll to keep the surface consistent.
Secondly, you're getting a lot fisheyes. (The low spots, or collection of low spots that look veiny/lace like.) This most likely means you still have grease/oil of the surface. I've heard a lot of people complain about implement paint and fisheyes, but I'm pretty certain almost all of those instances are contamination.
If it's not contamination, it's likely a chemical reaction to the base coatings. (AKA: secret contamination.) This chemical reaction can be a real pain in the ass with implement paint, but it seems to be more of an issue trying to spray over the implement paint.
A good acetone bath (keep scrubbing until it ceases leaving deposits on clean paper towels) followed by a proper wax and grease remover may be in order if you're after a higher quality finish.
If you're after just OK, more coats on top will hide a lot.
In reply to Crackers :
Most of what you're seeing in that picture is the pitting in the underlying metal. It was a quick/crappy picture that I snapped right before I had to head out to pick up the kids. I'll take more pictures tomorrow showing the imperfections in my technique/surface prep. I was having trouble with thickness. It's warm out, about 90, and humid and the paint was going on thick. About three hours after I put it on it was still soft enough to take a finger print when I touched it. My intention was to paint a small section of frame as a test, but I got carried away. Tomorrow I want to try some rolling. See how it goes.
Enjoying the project, Mr. MazD.
Remind me what the objection to spray painting was?
If the window of opportunity is still ooen, grab a small can of POR or Chassis Saver and try it out. Nothing else will leave as smooth a finish on pitted metal when brushed on. It's kinda made for this exact application.
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