JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
AxeHealey said:
I don't think I've ever commented on it before but just leaving a note to say how much I enjoy this thread/car.
Thanks for this. I was beginning to think I was talking to myself here. This thread is the only way I'm keeping track of what I've done, and it helps to get feedback on that. Hopefully somebody is learning something.
+1
I'm certain I've read every post in your build thread here, but rarely have anything constructive to contribute. Thanks for sharing your journey.
Congrats on the first test drive!
I'm with indy. Love the thread, very little to say
Thanks, guys. I'd probably keep writing even if to myself, but it helps to know someone is reading.
I pulled the speedo to test with a drill, and it is indeed sticking. Sometimes it doesn't return to zero at all. Light lubing didn't help. In my limited experience attempting to fix these myself, I'd be better off throwing it in the trash and saving time. So it's either time for eBay or send it off for a rebuild.
A new windshield is on backorder. I could temporarily bolt an old one on frame and all to keep things moving along. I've never tried to install glass before, but it doesn't look too hard if you don't force it.
I got a new fast idle solenoid valve from Amazon and tested it. It flows enough that I think it will work fine down to 40F or so. It still needs some sort of mounting bracket that can bolt to the radiator stay.
I also ran a new power wire to the flex fuel sensor and it works from key on now.
We had a windshield replaced today by a local guy, so I asked him about putting one in the TR6. He can get it from Denver by tomorrow, and it's $220 installed. The backordered one is $160 + $35 crating charge, and I do the install. This seems like a no-brainer. Canceling the backorder tomorrow.
One thing the test drive showed me is that I need a new overdrive control solenoid. The one I have took a hit at some point before I got it and cracked the seal. There was a puddle of gearbox oil under the car that definitely came from there. A new one is $250.
Just went through the whole threat. Fantastic work. The color is great!
Is it time to look at a transmission swap?
https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/adding-five-speeds-our-triumph-hvda-kit/
A bit pricey, but up to the level you built the rest of the car.
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:
Is it time to look at a transmission swap?
https://classicmotorsports.com/articles/adding-five-speeds-our-triumph-hvda-kit/
A bit pricey, but up to the level you built the rest of the car.
Maybe if the current gearbox blows up and I decide against running in SCCA FSP. At this point, it would make more sense to run my MSM in BSP as it just needs to run E85 and R Comps to be sort of competitive. From a performance/reliability standpoint, I'd rather swap out the differential and stock half-shafts.
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Can't say I blame you. The car is a beaut. Love that color.
A brand new overdrive solenoid was installed. I had to make a thin 1" wrench to tighten it down (since I borrowed one before).
I'm trying to get the windshield permanently installed this week. This means putting something on the back of the frame. Last time, I bought some vinyl and glued it on. Since it's still holding up 25 year later, why not do the same again? Especially since I still have enough vinyl left over. The stock plastic pieces are available, but cost $86. So that's done and I'm shaping a new frame-to-body seal in hopes of dropping this on the body for good tomorrow.
JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
Simple fix, but I was just being lazy when I did this. Sigh.
No. You were being EFFICIENT.... Maybe a bit too efficient, but efficient.
I have watched this in awe. Back in the late '70s, I helped a friend rebuild a totaled '70 TR6 - I spend a couple of weeks with a hammer and dolly straightening a completely berkeleyed LF fender he couldn't afford to replace. Wasn't more than about 1/16" of filler on it when it was done. I painted it Imron black. He put 13" Cragar chrome spoke wheels on it. The thing went like a bat right up to about 60 and that was all ;=)
Edit - I seem to remember that I removed / modified / defeated the overdrive lockout. There is something kinda stupid about first, first over, second, second over... etc
CJ (He's Just an FS) said:
JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
Simple fix, but I was just being lazy when I did this. Sigh.
No. You were being EFFICIENT.... Maybe a bit too efficient, but efficient.
I have watched this in awe. Back in the late '70s, I helped a friend rebuild a totaled '70 TR6 - I spend a couple of weeks with a hammer and dolly straightening a completely berkeleyed LF fender he couldn't afford to replace. Wasn't more than about 1/16" of filler on it when it was done. I painted it Imron black. He put 13" Cragar chrome spoke wheels on it. The thing went like a bat right up to about 60 and that was all ;=)
Edit - I seem to remember that I removed / modified / defeated the overdrive lockout. There is something kinda stupid about first, first over, second, second over... etc
My thought was that if the flex fuel sensor wasn't getting power, then it would be better if the car couldn't run (assuming E85 is in the tank). The two options for this were fuel pump or Megasquirt power. It was just easier to run the wire three feet instead of from under the dash.
Why didn't the factory paint any TR6s black? They look so good in black.
The autocross TR6 I used to drive had a 4.55 differential. First gear was almost useless, but got the car moving quickly. Most autocross runs needed overdrive in second, and sometimes a shift to third. I can't imagine ever wanting overdrive in first gear, but I've added a switch for second gear. The only gear that should *never* allow overdrive engagement is reverse. There's a uni-directional roller clutch in the overdrive that will bind up if run in reverse and something will break.
The windshield frame is now attached to the body, hopefully for good. Getting the seal to lay down on the body and not curl under took some patience. The local glass guy is coming by next Friday to do the glass.
With a new Bastuck overdrive solenoid fitted, I made up wiring harnesses for the gearbox switches. Another drive through the neighborhood to test the overdrive in second gear was a success. I've only had it up to 25 mph, but there are no unexpected drivetrain noises.
Before the tunnel cover gets bolted down, I'm thinking now is the time to add a catalytic converter. My parameters are 2.25" input/output, less than 12" long, stainless steel, and preferably heat shielded. I'll most likely need an extra separate heat shield to keep the plastic tunnel cover from melting. Not sure about what substrates to look for, although ceramic ones appear to be inexpensive. If I can get slip-fit ends, the pipe can be cut, converter installed, and tack welded in the car.
Edit: I ordered a Vibrant metal-core spun cat like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-7100
I've really been bouncing around lately working on lots of different things. The trick is to not jump into something before it should be done. For instance, I laid out the rear bumper brackets and hardware to bolt those in. Then I realized that I hadn't tightened down the rear body mounts. But this is because I haven't finished bolting in the roll bar and need to lift the body up to insert pads/spacers. Back up some more, and I need to finish welding the roll bar mounts and powder coat it. Maybe it's time to write down more of the timeline for this project. So today, I'm taking a pause to think and plan.
Yesterday involved fixing my nearly 1 y.o. Makita compressor. The motor was turning but it wasn't building pressure. It's still under warranty, but I need it now. So off came the head, and I found a small chunk of hard sealant on the intake reed valve. Here's where it came from.
I'm putting that in my dictionary under ironic. So apparently there needs to be a metal screen inside the air filter.
Compressor fixed, I cleaned up the intake tube and shot the black wrinkle paint. Turned out pretty well. Thanks for the suggestions.
Finally, I backed the car out for some daylight photos.
No pics of the intake !?!?! BOOO 
(btw, happy birthday)
Apexcarver said:
No pics of the intake !?!?! BOOO
(btw, happy birthday)
It's curing and not on the car yet. But if you must.
Here's a problem. I decided that the roll bar needs to get welded and mounted for good soon. I also need to finish modifications to the seat controls on the sides near where the roll bar mounts. This is what it looks like now with the seat pushed back all the way.
The vinyl is rubbing, and there's no room for the release lever nor the seat back reclining lever. I was planning on making a flat lever out of aluminum, but need at least 1/2" of clearance to avoid rubbing issues. Notching the roll bar tube near the mounting plate seems like a really bad idea from a strength perspective. Maybe a curved lever could go below the seat side bolster. Worst case, both levers can go behind the seat.
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Can you swap the seats side to side so the levers are on the tunnel side? I can't remember if the clearance exists there or not.
TurnerX19 said:
In reply to JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) :
Can you swap the seats side to side so the levers are on the tunnel side? I can't remember if the clearance exists there or not.
The seats aren't symmetric (the backs lean towards the middle), and there's not much room on the other side anyway. The more I think about it, the levers could go on the back.
A small order came from TRF today including various stuff. The windshield washer bottle and mount was the last thing needed for under the hood, so I had to put it in. The washer bottle had to be rotated 90 degrees to clear the oil catch can. The only thing left to go under the hood is the radiator shroud, and that can't be fitted until the grill is bolted on. But it's close.
The windshield went in on Friday with no drama. So I really need to get on finishing the roll bar and seats. The catalytic converter also showed up, so there's no shortage of stuff to work on.
I think I've figured out the seat controls. For the seat release, I kept it simple. Pull up on this tab. I like it better than the stock lever next to the seat.
The seat recline lever needs to attach to that square bar on the left side. It looks like there is enough room behind the lower side bolster panel.
I can weld a short lever onto the square bar and bolt a lever to it where the aluminum strip is above. The lever might need a slight z-bend to not rub the seat cushion.
Remember when I mentioned that I shouldn't mess with fixing the speedometer? I had a spare one with the input shaft completely jammed, so gave it a go. Should have listened to myself.
The end of the input shaft completely shattered as I was driving it out of the body. Maybe it was already cracked and that's what caused it to stick as it now spins freely. It's a pile of mostly useless parts now. But I did learn some things from taking this one apart, so may attempt a partial teardown of the other one to clean and lube it. The fallback position is $75 for another one on Ebay.
I'm also working on a pair of taillights. I have two sets, neither of which is great. One is worth sending off for chrome, and I can temporarily assemble the other to get on the road. I'll be putting LED clusters in the brake lights to replace the melted plastic reflectors and more than double their light output. Also, the stock bulb holders are the work of Satan. Or Lucas. Whichever.
Both seat frames are done and ready for powder coat. Stripping a rotted 48 year old seat apart is a filthy job. Glad that's done. I'm almost looking forward to putting the seats back together.
Next up is final fitting of the roll bar.
JoeTR6 (Forum Supporter) said:
Stripping a rotted 48 year old seat apart is a filthy job. Glad that's done.
True words there.
Looks like you're on the right track for the seat-back release. Nice progress.
