Yea, that's the same reason I haven't tried it for anything yet. I have heard it works well though.
Yea, that's the same reason I haven't tried it for anything yet. I have heard it works well though.
Burrito wrote: I have not. It's on the to-do list, but not until I have something that requires a fair amount of product. It only has a 6 month shelf life, and I didn't want to spend $50+ for something that will turn into a brick by the time I need it again.
I bought some lab metal from the welding supply place and it was a solid in the can. Took it back and exchanged it for the only other can they had which was the same. I asked them to order some fresh ones and they did. It was great. Worked well and on aluminum sheet it filed to an indistinguishable joint with the base metal. 2 weeks later I reopened the can and it was the same as the other two had been.
That stuff needs to be sold in small tubes. Diluting the aged paste with lab solvent did nothing.
Those are gonna look really cool when the powdercoat is on.
JB Weld is really good for 500'F? And here I am buying brake pads like a sucker.
ssswitch wrote: Those are gonna look really cool when the powdercoat is on. JB Weld is really good for 500'F? And here I am buying brake pads like a sucker.
Supposedly. We will see. There's multiple threads on powder coating forums about it and everyone seems to have good luck with it. You gotta get the Original stuff, though. Not JB Quik.
JB Weld doesn't flinch at 500 degrees. I use it often under my powdercoating. That's not internet rumor either. That's straight from me doing it for years.
After about an hour of fiddly sanding and two coats of JB Weld I was happy enough with the fillet to carry on.
And after a little powdercoating...
Pretty damn pleased with the result.
I'm still debating on putting a dummy light or something in the middle there. Part of me likes the cleanliness of how it is right now, but the other part of me thinks it's a little too much dead space. I need to pull the glass off the front of the gauges, too, as there is some funk on the backside. When I do that, I'll polish the front bezel before reinstalling.
Looks good! So how well does powder coating work on jb weld?
Lomaxmotorsports wrote: Looks good! So how well does powder coating work on jb weld?
Honestly, it worked beautifully.
Polyester powders are supposedly really sensitive to the substrate outgassing, which is apparently something the JB Weld likes to do. So, I stuck the part in the oven for a good 25 minutes at 400*F to try to cook out any of the impurities or whatever to try and combat this. That's probably the most important step. The part looks great, no obvious bubbling, cracking, or anything like that. The wrinkle coat hid all of my sins really well, too.
I'll keep using the JB Weld over Lab-Metal or any other product until I have a reason to stop. I'm going to give the High-Temp JB stick a go at some point when I need a filler that I can sculpt a little more. My one complaint with the Original JB Weld is that it's so damn runny.
Up high could be a good home for turn signal indicator lights and a high beam indicator light if none of those are integrated into the speedo or tach. Down low could be some idiot lights for voltage and oil pressure maybe? Aftermarket motorcycle bits would be a good source for interesting options.
Add a nicely backlit red button marked "EJECT" and another marked "SMOKE". Just because. 
A coat of KL primer powder under your topcoat will seal in any out gassing. You can get it from Powder 365.
I'm really digging the wrinkle power coat, makes me think of 60s race cars.
As for the dead space there, big, bright, round, red, oil pressure light. Maybe an equal size high beam indicator.
If you are putting the other gauges out of the central cluster, I'd do some redundant warning lights. Charge lamp, low oil pressure, and high water temperature.
Wrinkle powder is the shizzle. It hides a lot of surface imperfection on rough old parts.
Keep it blank and just soak up some bezel awesomeness.
In reply to Jumper K. Balls:
I have had luck adding mek to lab metal to keep it soft, they sell a product especially for it but the mek worked fine for me
Alfa Duetto:
top: Turn sigs, Generator
bottom: Lights, High beams,
PO did this to my car , with the unfortunate result of the top three gauges being blocked by the wheel.
This is what I've got on my motorcycle and it works great; http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Dynamics-Heads-Voltage-Monitor/dp/B00AC5J84M
If you could find a housing & lens like what is shown in the above picture from that Alfa, with a clear lens, it would probably blend in pretty well.
I like the Alfa Duetto set up.
Wow, that powder coat turned out great.
This build is REALLY cool. I love old boxy small sedans, looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Bride of Burrito, you madame, are quite good at photograpy, my compliments.
Burrito, when you get the car repainted in metallic yellow, maybe consider blacking out all the chrome? I think that would look amazing, quick preview of the possibility:
Redhornet wrote: This build is REALLY cool. I love old boxy small sedans, looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Bride of Burrito, you madame, are quite good at photograpy, my compliments. Burrito, when you get the car repainted in metallic yellow, maybe consider blacking out all the chrome? I think that would look amazing, quick preview of the possibility:
Im a fan.
One general comment on this thread that I've found interesting. It seems to draw the lurkers and new readers out of the woodwork. I'm not sure what that means, but I'd be well chuffed if it was my thread. Keep up the awesome work.
In reply to Redhornet:
While I am a big fan of shadowlined trim and blacked out bumpers and grilles, Mrs. Burrito is a big fan of all the brightwork on the car. Almost anything and everything that can be polished up will be. Thanks for photoshopping that, though. It looks killer to me.
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