I found at least one stamping on the engine block. It reads D1OE-6015-aa. From googling, it appears to be a 1971 or later 302 Windsor. Not sure yet on the manual transmission though I did notice a Borg Warner stamp.
Given that it started life as a 6-cylinder, but is now a V8, when I'm ordering parts like spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, belts, how do I make sure I'm ordering the parts I need for the engine that was swapped in?
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
I'm not a Ford guy despite owning way to much Ford stuff. What I'd do is find a date code on like the intake manifold or heads. That should give you a better idea on what year it is. Then just whenever you need engine stuff tell them it's for a 7x Ford Bronco with a 302 V8. I have to do that on my K30 all the time.
Stampie (FS) said:In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
I'm not a Ford guy despite owning way to much Ford stuff. What I'd do is find a date code on like the intake manifold or heads. That should give you a better idea on what year it is. Then just whenever you need engine stuff tell them it's for a 7x Ford Bronco with a 302 V8. I have to do that on my K30 all the time.
I'll look for dates on the top side and see if I can find any.
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
On the transmission IIRC the 6 and the 302 V8 shared bell housings so I"d bet it is the one that came with the Bronco originally. But that's a bet that no one in the last 38 years messed that up.
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
It won't be dates exactly. Here's a link for some light reading.
The 4.9, or 300 6 used the same bell housing bolt pattern as the 302 (later called the 5.0. ) the Windsor is where that series of engines was originally made... started as a 221, 260,289, 302 and 351 W. A different series was the Cleveland, with 351 C being most well known.
The 302 changed only in minor ways from the early days (I think 67 or 68) till it’s later days (late 90’s?)
to get parts for the engine, just ask for a mid 70’s F100 with 302!
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
In a very general sense, regarding wiring you just want to look for anything that triggers your spidey sense. If you really have to wonder if it's safe or right, it very well isn't. In an even more general sense: bare wire bad. New bare wire is bright and coppery while old bare wire looks like something from a maritime musuem so, if you see a bare wire while working on it, you'll know if it's been there a while or if you need to find where it was just attached before you forget. Other than that, and the other responses, I think that the recent registration is a pretty good sign that it was at least functional enough for someone to pay to have registered.
I decided to take my own advice. I found this date code on the intake from the 351W. It was in the middle on top about 1/4 of the way back.
Hit it with a sharpie to make it more readable.
3L30 so using the site above that means November 30th of 83 which matches the block code as an 84 engine.
It looks like it says D3OE-9425-AA, which after googling, seems to tie back to a Mercruiser intake. Does that make sense?
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
That's your casting number not your date code. And yeah in my research it seems Mercrusier Ford based engines used the same intakes. The D3 means 73 at the earliest.
Any non HO 302 will work for parts. The engine I swapped into my car is a 70 with a distributor for a 79, ignition controller is stock 78 i6 car etc. as long as you pick a NON HO 302 parts will fit. About the biggest change over the years pre roller motor is what the distributor gear is made out of. Odds are it's a run of the mill truck engine from the 70s
Bought a bunch of parts and supplies today. Almost all of these will be new activities for me, so the learning will commence!
Filters (air, fuel, oil)
Belts
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Cap & rotor
Battery cables
Fluids (oil, transmission, diffs, transfer case, brake, steering, coolant)
In reply to dyintorace (Forum Supporter) :
Just a warning, I find most people hate the smell of diff oil. I on the other hand think it's the smell of carness at it's most basic level.
Do we want to talk about the possible need for additive for a clutch posi that may or may not be in this vehicle's rear axle?
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
Good question. I didn't look at the rear when I was there.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:Do we want to talk about the possible need for additive for a clutch posi that may or may not be in this vehicle's rear axle?
It sounds like we do want to talk about that. But it's a language I don't speak. What do I need to look for?
I believe the 9 inch is what's under the rear of your Bronco, which I believe means no rear cover to pull to easily inspect the diff like on an 8.8, so what you'd do is lift the rear wheels off the ground and spin one by hand with the vehicle off and in neutral. If the opposite side wheel turns the same way you've got a working posi; if it turns the other direction you've got an open diff. This is assuming the axle tag is no longer in place on the axle AND the guts haven't been messed with in the nearly 45 years since the vehicle was built (which is why I'm not sure if I'd even bother decoding an axle tag here).
If anyone else has a better idea please speak up.
As for friction modifier for a clutch-type LSD, you can get a little bottle of the stuff at about any parts counter you can think to go to, and it's not expensive. Without it the clutches can "bind" on each other and chatter or moan during turns; I had that happen on the Mustang I bought well used before changing the fluid and adding the friction modifier.
While we're thinking of things to check, look for the diff air lines. They should be routed up high and have a check valve on them. That'll prevent water getting in if you take it off roading.
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:I believe the 9 inch is what's under the rear of your Bronco, which I believe means no rear cover to pull to easily inspect the diff like on an 8.8, so what you'd do is lift the rear wheels off the ground and spin one by hand with the vehicle off and in neutral. If the opposite side wheel turns the same way you've got a working posi; if it turns the other direction you've got an open diff. This is assuming the axle tag is no longer in place on the axle AND the guts haven't been messed with in the nearly 45 years since the vehicle was built (which is why I'm not sure if I'd even bother decoding an axle tag here).
If anyone else has a better idea please speak up.
As for friction modifier for a clutch-type LSD, you can get a little bottle of the stuff at about any parts counter you can think to go to, and it's not expensive. Without it the clutches can "bind" on each other and chatter or moan during turns; I had that happen on the Mustang I bought well used before changing the fluid and adding the friction modifier.
Just jacked up the rear. Spinning one wheel causes the opposite wheel to spin in the same direction. So I'll grab a bottle of friction modifier!
Stampie (FS) said:While we're thinking of things to check, look for the diff air lines. They should be routed up high and have a check valve on them. That'll prevent water getting in if you take it off roading.
Here's what's under there.
Also a question on what I think is a ground cable. This black wire wasn't attached to anything on the opposite end. In fact, that end was just chewed up wire. I bought a new ground cable to replace it. Where does the opposite end attach?
That is the starter solenoid. Its not looking too happy.
Yeah, that's the starter solenoid on the fender. Fords of this vintage had them somewhere on the fenderwell in one of two styles. Yours is the older style. I'd get 3-4 of these and keep them in the rig, because if it's anything like any of the Fords I've had from that era, they crap out without warning all the time. Hell, my Troy-Bilt lawn tractor had one just like that which died violently this season!
I'll grab a new one, and a spare. In the meantime, where do I attach the other end of the black ground wire?
I'd be *shocked* if that black wire with the yellow ring terminal meant for a huge stud and not that bolt was in any way related to a factory wiring job.
It probably ran to a car alarm or a winch or lord knows what which was added by a previous tenant and removed poorly. I would take that black wire off the vehicle and put it in your stash of wire to use better next time around.
So what are you doing with the starter solenoid? Looks like you took a nut off one side of the thing between taking pictures of it. I have no experience with them on a Ford so I defer to experience on this one.
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