I really enjoy all the 4AGE love you share around this website. I'm always watching and learning, but often remain silent because I have nothing constructive to add. I am curious about some of your choices. For instance, did you choose your management system for outright power? It seems it was running a little rich at idle is that correct?
I love seeing the porting work you do as well. The FX 16 is sweet. Etc, etc. Carry on, sir.
In reply to wheelsmithy:
It was just a little rich at idle. I was riding shotgun with the laptop and before the AFR was bouncing around in a 13.5-14.7 range. After adjusting injector time, we had fluctuations more like 14.5-15.6 range and the idle smoothed a little before breezing through emissions. 
wheelsmithy wrote: I really enjoy all the 4AGE love you share around this website. did you choose your management system for outright power? It seems it was running a little rich at idle is that correct? I love seeing the porting work you do as well. The FX 16 is sweet. Etc, etc. Carry on, sir.
Whats not to love..... 
I chose the FJO almost 7 years ago.... the choices at the time were thin, either early mega squirt (I wanted something more reliable), or some of the choices from Japan (Freedom ECU comes to mind), the problem with these were they were Japanese based and I was unsure if I could understand them.... with 2 language barriers (Japanese, and software). There were a few others, but at the time this was touted as one of the best available. A second reason I purchased this was it came as a kit, wiring harness, all pickups, all fabricated mounts for the pickups. Basically bolt on, install, and tune.
The only real problem with this system is software development stopped on the 341B once Holley bought FJO. In the modern world, running a 4AGE, the Megasquirt Pro3 is as good as you would ever need, and it has so much support from all over the world, that any issue you might have has 10k people to help you diag, and solve the issue.
The FX, for a "stock" engine, pulls like Russian bear on steriods 
This car is a bunch of awesome :)
I love the 4AGE, back in 2002 I rebuilt one while taking an engine rebuild class at CMU. I bought two MR2s and made one good MR2 out of the parts
Storz wrote: This car is a bunch of awesome :) I love the 4AGE, back in 2002 I rebuilt one while taking an engine rebuild class at CMU. I bought two MR2s and made one good MR2 out of the parts
I was just helping someone on Club4AG, when I came across this.....
OST in June 2008 said: I hate predicting outcomes... but guessing based on all the specifics of this build.... 135 hp and 110 #-ft measured @ the wheels But my goals(as I tell everyone to have before they build something) . 1) to get to 110 #-ft of torque @the wheels, as a peak. My current engine is at about 94 to 95 #-ft. A well tuned blktop can plant 109 #-ft . 2) to have a management system that can allow me to run nearly 11 to 1 CR AND be clean* and green**. . 3) In conjunction with the AZ6, diff upgrades, brake upgrades, I could realistically bring the AE86 into the 21st century*** OR in other words to have my Corolla and have it fully capable of hauling my faat arse around for the next 10 years. . 4) To keep my mid-life crisis under $50 grand!!! I CAN'T afford any exotic or kit of an exotic(costs are just tooooo damn high). I can't even afford to get a STi, or EVO, if I wanted one. I'm an olde muscle/pony car guy... but an AE86 is still only about 1/3 the cost of one of those beasts... and good luck driving them everyday.... AND owning a "custom"/unique ride with only a few cues that it is custom (SUBTLE) has always been my car personality. * - emissions levels below(above?... how about better than)) 1986 standards, possibly close to 1996 OBD II stds ** - MPG on the highway of 30 minimum *** - Hmmm, the muscle car and pony car world have a name for it.... resto mod - making your old car fully capable for modern transporation
The only thing that didn't portend was using my AE86, but Surreptitious is a bit more unique and I've got a few more years still ;) ...
That post/quote about goals really hits home. My toy is a V8-powered 242 Volvo. With a 330HP 5.0L V8/efi it gets just about the same mileage as it did with the old Bosch mech FI - 17-19 around town (foot out of it) and 25-27 on the highway. Best Interstate tank of 28.7 mpg. At 2980 lbs., it's pretty sporty. And with more contemporary EFI and cats - it's 'greener' than it was back in '82. I'm in the middle of replacing the 24 year-old 5.0L with a new LS3 crate engine -- I think I may be able to squeeze out 30 mpg on a 65-68 mph Interstate run. And with a 2013 ecu, be even cleaner than the 5.0L was. With 100 more HP and lb-ft. It's a great time to be an enthusiast.
And I still love the 'yota. I may have one more build in me. And it's a '71-'74 TE27 powered by a contemporary Lexus 3.5L DOHC V6. Got it all figured out.....in my head.
Mr. OST, I have questions, if you'd be so kind-I'm adapting AE86 brakes to a Starlet, and would love to learn from your hard earned knowledge if you don't mind.
Quoted for reference:
oldeskewltoy wrote:oldeskewltoy wrote: Doing some research All AE86 drum brake cars use valve 22040, while the GT-S uses valve 12040. I then look up my car, and low and behold, the valve is the same as a drum brake AE86 - 22040. So even though I have a different master cylinder, AND the proportioning valve is mounted slightly lower, the lines will not have to be customized to fit the GT-S valve! So I remove the drum brake valve, and swap in the GT-S valve.Is the valve of which you speak also the T on the rear axle where the soft line meets the two hard lines? I can find no residual valve anywhere else. Also, did you retain the stock, drum brake e-brake handle, despite the different fulcrum points? If so, are you still pleased with its function? Any wisdom is very much appreciated.
wheelsmithy wrote: Is the valve of which you speak also the T on the rear axle where the soft line meets the two hard lines? I can find no residual valve anywhere else. Also, did you retain the stock, drum brake e-brake handle, despite the different fulcrum points? If so, are you still pleased with its function? Any wisdom is very much appreciated.
The "T" is not a valve... it is a distribution point where the fluid going to the rear wheels is split, and fluid goes to each rear wheel
A brake proportioning valve is below, the black part that has the lines going in/out of it... under the master cylinder
In reply to oldeskewltoy: Thanks! From there, it was straight back through the hard linr, to the soft line, then the aforementioned T, and out to the calipers, right? No residual valve?
In reply to wheelsmithy:
as far as I know.... yes
Again, Thank You.
Many project cars never get driven.... and fewer still make it to 20k miles..... 
oldeskewltoy wrote: Many project cars never get driven....
a recent short drive....
as far as I know this is the only AE71 that can LEGITIMATELY carry this vinyl...
oldeskewltoy wrote:oldeskewltoy wrote: Many project cars never get driven....
Very cool to see. Keep at it!
I try to be careful when it comes to accessorizing Surreptitious... don't want her looking trashy... So these became available....
and I jumped on them... fit isn't bad...
They are just propped in there for now, I'll need to come up with a method to mount them securely as the original mounts were not included
Pretty much since she has been roadworthy... she has had an annoying vibration at the front of the car when @ idle. It was slightly embarrassing as it idle, and made noise. For the longest time I had thought it was the air dam vibrating against the custom bumper. So I decided today I had had enough and I looked at what I could do. First, I tried to adjust the bumper... to no avail, the vibration continued. Then I climbed under the front while it was idling... and I saw the problem...... The air dam was indeed vibrating against something, but it wasn't the bumper. The airdam is shaped in such a way that it the back side that fits to the lower valance, was vibrating.
I've fitted some foam weatherstripping between the air dam and the valance panel and the vibration is GONE!
Acquired(purchased) a new set of wheels.... 15x6.5 +19 for the fronts, and 15x7 + 13 for the rears....
should be here in about 2 weeks......
also had to do a we bit of repairs.... 
seems I "lost" the directional signals... checked grounds, and then I replaced the relay - all good.
The staggered 15s are going to look perfect on there. You should totally do the basketweave section white too.
darn.... been a year without an update.
Crankwalk - the wheels are still sitting in my office.... They may end up on "Racecar" (I bought a TRD built AE86 racecar)
Back to Surreptitious..... I had in interesting month of February... as is the case on even years, she needed to go through emissions testing. The old dual stage cat has been on for the better part of 5 years now, and when I went to get her tested.. she failed... even with her still very good tune. I had a new dual stage cat installed..... pretty clean for a cammed 4AGE....
so, she passed emissions, and on the way home.........
this happened....
that is the window stop on the driverside...... 
it is located in a difficult to get at place on the glass... difficult because once disassembled... it required a bit of ingenuity to get it re-installed...... but before it gets re-installed, I need a replacement part to reinstall. A 35 year old car doesn't have a lot available at the dealer... especially this kind of part. And if they did, do I want a 35 year old piece of plastic?? UMHW - lets call it machinable plastic, I bought a 1 foot long piece 1" diameter........
Thank you AE86andKP61 
So, getting back to reinstallation.....
The hardware in the starred circle is a flat plastic washer(for against the glass, and a flat steel nut. The issue was how to get to the back side of the glass. The factory service manual says to pull; the outer beltline molding, and then dismount the glass from the regulator.....
for the new readers, my car has a flaw from the previous owner... the door glass is different between the early cars(80-81), and the later cars (82-83). The later models had a wing mounted mirror, while the early cars used a door skin mounted mirror. The glass, and regulator... and door are slightly different... and the previous owner mixed the two using a 83 door, but 80 internals.... and so the glass doesn't quite fit right, and has been jury rigged....
sooo... the last thing I really want to do is take the glass out, and try to "re-jury rig" the whole thing.
Solution..... using a tongue depressor, and RTV, I affixed the flat nut to the tongue depressor with a dab of RTV, also usaing some RTV to affix the washer to the nut. Then with help(4 hands needed - again ty AE86andKP61) we managed to get the stop refitted without removing the glass.
more to come........... 
Not many adornments on my Corolla.... but with the "GT", and "DOHC" emblems on the front.....
a bit of balance was needed at the back..........
more to come........... 
Such a neat little car! Thanks for the updates.
damn... 11 months w/o an update.... 224,211 on the odo, or 34,697 miles since her resurrection.
She still drives nicely... 
a few new photos too....
Damn nice OST.
Gotta ask- I know I gotta use Megasquirt or something similar to really get a 4A-GE to preform; any tips for using one? I've never worked with a standalone.
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