There's just something about a new small block still in the plastic...
There's just something about a new small block still in the plastic...
At least you now have a new set of issues, possibly. 
DoctorBlade wrote: At least you now have a new set of issues, possibly.
Warranty will ease my worries...
except on the stamping it says HENCHO EN MEXICO
but from my experiences in the manufacturing world is that plants in mexico are newer and get better equipment but operator error would be evident within the 1st few hours of operation or be perfectly fine!
fidelity101 wrote: Warranty will ease my worries... except on the stamping it says HENCHO EN MEXICO but from my experiences in the manufacturing world is that plants in mexico are newer and get better equipment but operator error would be evident within the 1st few hours of operation or be perfectly fine!
Chevy guys don't like their Mexican blocks, but the Ford guys used to prefer them since they were made with more metal than the US castings.
Me, I figure, for a repower, what does it matter? And if it's a performance build, you don't want a stock block anyway.
If this was a performance build, it would get what this truck deserves, a cummins. But thats a much larger budget and more effort. Maybe one day...
A repower is a good way of putting it. It towed w 6 functional cylinders and got about 8 mpg and a few quarts of oil
So this should feel like a rocket.
I did just run into some issues though, its a 2piece rear main seal style (pre 86 sbc) so the flywheels are different but the clutch is the same. And im torn on fuel, stock has in tank sending unit electrical pump. Mechanical pump setup is about 30 dollars and run returnless.
Or i buy an adj fpr like what i did in the rx7 or see if the mechanical pump will pull through the electrical in tank sender.
I just really dont want to drop the tank, not sure if ill have help to do it basically...
Without knowing what the free-flow specs are on the intank pump, you probably could just play with orifice sizes in the return line and run the feed line into the return line and then tee off of the feed line into a (much cheaper) Holley regulator.
1st-gen RX-7s had this sort of arrangement. There was no pressure regulator per se, the pump just ran to the carb and a restrictor orifice was in the return line.
I KNOW people have done this in the FC RX-7 world when converting to carburetor and keeping the stock pump.
Alternative to that, I remember years back on the blowthru-turbo mailing list that some enterprising Australian figured a way to make Holley regulators work properly as a return-style regulator. Holley regs ran $150 or so for them at a time when they were $25 US, and the proper style was even more expensive.
This is the one I run in the rx7 and it has a walbro 255lph fuel pump. (kept going through near dead stock ones, gave up)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/overview/
very happy with it
But do not wish to spend 130+ s/h for the burban. I've tried the holley regulators in the past and found them to be mostly useless for my EFI pump to carb setups.
also, updated/painted the grille:
Also, I'm not sure if I need a different harmonic balancer because of the crank, I'm sure it fits on fine but the balance itself...
I skipped rallycross this weekend... but this was the only weekend I had free before the national tour 2 day event in our region...
SO!
Out with the "old"
in with the new!
got everything in over the weekend, I THINK I have the dizzy installed properly(or I'm 180 degrees off), I just need to run power to it and get a fuel line fitting and I should be able to fire it up tonite, then proceed to install the other missing bits that makes it from a running vehicle into a driving vehicle!
The truck has a new nickname, Big Black.
Also, only this truck could make an SBC look small...
Man, I want that truck!
Bonus points for doing a curb side engine replacement!
That's a cavern, not an engine bay.
The_Jed wrote: Man, I want that truck! Bonus points for doing a curb side engine replacement!
lol no thats my driveway. But the garage does flood from the front and sides and the truck is too big to fit into the garage so I am forced only to work when weather is permitting :/
DoctorBlade wrote: That's a cavern, not an engine bay.
I am very exhausted and slightly bruised from hoping in and out of it. I would use the bumper as a step to climb over the core support and then literally sit in the engine bay.
(I'm 6'4")
fidelity101 wrote: This is the one I run in the rx7 and it has a walbro 255lph fuel pump. (kept going through near dead stock ones, gave up) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13301/overview/ very happy with it But do not wish to spend 130+ s/h for the burban. I've tried the holley regulators in the past and found them to be mostly useless for my EFI pump to carb setups.
Hang on a Mo, you've just sprung for a brand new engine, intake, carb etc and now your not sure about $130 for a regulator that you konw works, to make it all run like a charm!?!?!?!?!?
I am very exhausted and slightly bruised from hoping in and out of it. I would use the bumper as a step to climb over the core support and then literally sit in the engine bay. (I'm 6'4")
One reason I like trucks.
In reply to Adrian_Thompson:
The carb and manifold are not new, well they're new to me and the fuel pump was 16 dollars new and works like a charm too.
I love these trucks. I don't even know why. I probably would own one if I had room anywhere on my property for one. Actually, I'd probably wuss out and buy a later model one that is cushier.
This truck is sweet. But removing FI for a carb makes me a sad panda.
Leafy wrote: This truck is sweet. But removing FI for a carb makes me a sad panda.
The tbi wiring and sensors all have lots of corrosion. This vehicle wasnt orig efi because diesel so its an botched hillbilly swap. I would have gladly kept tbi but all those sensors and harness pigtails add up to be more expensive. Hell the rx7 was efi and now carb, much happier with it!
I just realized something you could do if you were willing to use a mechanical pump and weren't sure that it would feed happily by drawing through an intank pump...
Sealed reservoir of some sort with three fittings, one on the top and two on the bottom. The old fuel line from the EFI pump goes in the bottom and the old return line goes out the top. The mechanical pump draws from the other bottom fitting. It probably doesn't have to be very tall, just maybe some width would be nice. One of those cheapo eBay catchcans might work...
I'm using something similar in the increasingly Mad Max-esque RX-7 to eliminate fuel starvation issues... have a 6" chunk of 2" galvanized pipe bolted to the bottom of the car that the EFI pump draws from, and a cheap electric carb pump to feed it. And a LOT of 5/16" and 1/4" hardline shuffling the fuel around. I can take long left-hand corners while on E and the engine still won't cut out! FINALLY
Well i got the cooling system and accys hooked up. Went to fire it but didnt get it to start Got some itake backfire I twisted the dizzy and got some differences but its way off.... I have to recheck my dizzy install (figured so much) but ran out of time. Leaving for pikes peak!
Also the mechanical pump pulls fine through efi pump!
Happy 4th of july! I came back from pikes peak, gave a day of rest and then tinkered around it throughout the week when I had time. Got the distributor installed correctly, fired right up - broke in the cam. everything is a-okay! good oil pressure, water temp was still good.
I had an oil leak for a minute because this block is for passenger side and driver side dip stick, I forgot to plug the one side...
melted 2 spark plug wires (slightly melted) due to poor routing but they are also cheap ass wires. I'm going to have to upgrade plug wires.
Got the throttle hooked up right and all thats left is dial in the timing. I have to check my idle mixture as well then its good for breaking in time!
If I run 2 throttle return springs I get a good idle speed but pedal is harder to initiate. If I run 1 throttle return spring the throttle is much smoother but I get a 1500 rpm idle...
maybe 1.5 springs this time maybe? :P
Interesting air filter. 
Something my boss showed me a while back is to always put the return spring so that it is pulling against the throttle cable. That way, it isn't putting a side load on the throttle shaft, which can bind and will eventually wear out. No so much a problem on Webers with their ball bearing shafting but a big problem on Holleys and Q-jets.
I never paid it much mind back when I was a second-stage gearhead, but now that I'm deep into third-stage, I respect his experience.
Also, in the past couple weeks, my idle has been hanging up. Why? Throttle shaft is sticking because the return spring is putting a hefty side load on the shaft. And of course, the baseplate is worn, so I need to find another 3310 to modify. One of this week's projects is engineering a place to put a return spring so that it pulls on the cable.
Cross-post from a different forum:
It goes like this:
The first stage, you're green and don't know what you're doing so you do everything that the experienced guys tell you to do, without really understanding why other than just trusting their experience.
Second stage, you've got some time under your belt and projects completed successfully and you start to cut corners, because you know some people who did and they had no problems so why spend the extra time/money/effort?
Third stage, you do weird overkill crap because you had that one time when X happened and you don't want it to happen again. Then you tell green people why you do it and then second-stage people tell you that it's totally unnecessary... 
Fourth stage is leaving everything completely stock and just driving it...
Since it took me like 15 minutes to do including trying to find a chunk of something suitable, and I had my camera with me:
Bad:
Good:
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