wvumtnbkr wrote: We should be able to get the car back together for a couple of practice days before our race in October (Pitt Race).
It would probably be a lot easier to get that done if someone would hurry up and get their project out of your garage... Maybe it's time I start a build thread here as well?
I read this thread and the other one you told me to.
Have questions.
1. Ehi did the ecm tuning? And how much was it?
2. The pictures of your motor mounts and headers/exhaust have disappeared. Can you repost them? Id like to see your solution.
3. What flywheel and clutch did you end up using?
4. How did you work out the oil cooler?
5. What was your oil pan baffle solution?
Just as a reminder: im planning this swap for a challenge miata.
Dusterbd13 said:I read this thread and the other one you told me to.
Have questions.
1. Ehi did the ecm tuning? And how much was it?
2. The pictures of your motor mounts and headers/exhaust have disappeared. Can you repost them? Id like to see your solution.
3. What flywheel and clutch did you end up using?
4. How did you work out the oil cooler?
5. What was your oil pan baffle solution?
Just as a reminder: im planning this swap for a challenge miata.
1. I went with Sinister Performance for the ECU. It was 105$ shipped there and back and I get a free adjustment in the future.
2. Let me see what I can find!
3. Sachs flywheel - NFW1006 (95 S10 2.2L) / Exedy Clutch - 04138 (95 S10 2.2L) / Luk Slave cylinder - LSC265B (97 Camaro 3800)
4. Oil cooler - I used the stock oil cooler and used a generic oil filter adapter (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Oil-Filter-Cooler-Sandwich-Plate-Adapter-Fit-AN10-M18x1-5-Purple-/262175371902?hash=item3d0adeb27e:g:JbwAAOSwCypWnxKh&vxp=mtr ). I made my own AN lines (now that I know how, they are easy!) I also retapped the threads (to make them pipe threads) and got new fittings for the oil adapter. I wasnt a fan of sealing with a crappy O-ring that pinches out when you tighten it.
5. I decided against the oil pan baffle. I was going to run an accusump. I'm not doing that either. As long as the oil is near the top, I get no oil starve on track.
Rock auto has the clutch and flywheel (different brands) for $80.00.
This thread has been very useful. Thank you. I am trying to put a 3500 into a 318ti.
The motor mount pictures would be very helpful. Drivers side especially looks
challenging.
I will need to take some new ones.
Motor mounts for this car were easy. Headers on the other hand....
How did you communicate with Sinister performance? Do you have a phone number I can't find one on their website
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Email: sp1@gmtuners.com
Thats all i used. There is a form and everything to fill out for exactly what you want.
Thought i read something about you using a spacer on the flywheel and having to monkey with throw out bearing preload. Am i hallucinating?
Have a 3800 trans sitting here now
And need to go to ohio and get a motor. The miata is a go.
No spacer on the flywheel. Spacer between the throwout bearing and transmission.
I did need to play with the release of the HTOB A BUNCH!
I finally took my flywheel and clutch assembly and put them on a drill press. I measured how much movement I needed from the HTOB to fully release the clutch WITHOUT re-engaging it (you CAN push too far). IIRc, this number was right around .5".
Then, I disassembled the HTOB and measured it's total possible throw. This number was somewhere around .75" (again, IIRC).
I added the shims, because I followed RAM clutches video procedure that said I needed to shim it to achieve the proper gap when at rest.
This will most likely result in a rather high clutch pedal release.
bbaker480 said:Last night's exhaust work went well. We decided to order some new collectors but the bulk of the header work is done. One cut on the driver's side and two on the passenger side.
The driver's side clears the starter by close to 1/2" and is shaped the way it is to clear the oil filter and adapter for the oil cooler.
We didn't even get into some of the tubing Rob ordered, and the scrap pile wasn't very large at all.
Just wanted these exhaust pics back to the top. I think they disappeared for abit...
bbaker480 said:The last few weeks have been busy trying to get things done, and not a lot of time was spent taking pictures. The headers are welded and we're trying to decide how to mount flanges and get the Y pipe built. The existing exhaust will be reused from about mid car to the back, so a couple more cuts and a few welds and this will be buttoned up. Like everything else it should take 40x longer than expected.....
We also have been working on driving the alternator and water pump. The kit intended for the 3.4L is NOT a direct swap for the 3400, but we've been able to modify things and are getting close to mounting the alternator and getting a belt in. Maybe this weekend? The remainder of the power wiring is in, battery mounted in it's box and the starter all wired up.
That last shot also shows the beginnings of the lower radiator plumbing. It's not yet clamped up, we finished last night and decided to sleep on it. The plan is to cut some hose to protect the aluminum piping where it is resting on the fan to prevent any issues from the contact. It would be great to find a radiator that has an outlet on the driver's side but this one fits the chassis well and should do a fine job of keeping temps under control.
While we were playing with silicone and aluminum we threw together the upper hose and intake. A bracket will be made to support the tubing for the intake and possibly some sort of airbox if there is time left to get it in the car before the 24th. Again, nothing clamped up yet while we think things through.
A few other things on the list have been checked off as well. The T5 shifter was threaded and an adapter was added to make it a bit taller. The tunnel was sealed back up with a cover plate, fireproof expanding foam, and a new boot.
Rob also fabbed up a new gauge cluster. Tach, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, and AFR. Most everyone that has been in the car can see everything through the wheel, so the layout seems to be pretty spot on.
A couple last things that have been finished for a while but not uploaded are the throttle cable and clutch master cyl. The throttle was quite a bit more work than it appears and we are still waiting on a Miata cable to show up to verify it actually works but hopefully this weekend...
2 weeks left and we still have most of a whiteboard to mark off. This will be a busy weekend...
More exhaust pics.
Thanks!
So, just to make sure: you used an aftermarket hydraulic throw out bearing, not the factory camaro piece, right?
Stock HTOB straight from Rock auto. Its like $34.00. I used a russell fittings connector (Part # 640281) to go to an AN3 line to an aftermarket master cylinder.
Also, here is the thread that helped me find the RAM videos...
And the direct link to the ram videos...
Awsome. Just trying to science all this out before assembly.
Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
Shims from Tick performance for HTOB
You will need to drill out / grind out the holes in the side of the trans bell housing in order to route the bleeder and clutch lines. Not a big deal.
I also drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing so I can access the clutch disc from below to ensure it is disengaging (should have .030 to .060" gap when clutch pedal is fully pushed).
I got the header collectors from here... Place that makes demo derby headers
Do not order demo derby headers unless you want them to stick through the hood. Even if you swap them from left head to right head, they still go through the hood. The spacing is not symmetric on the heads which means turning them over doesn't work either. Cutting the flange off and turning them over doesn't work either..... Don't ask.....
Hockey pucks make great engine mounts for this type of vehicle too. They deal with pretty severe misalignment if your measurements are off. Plus, they are cheap and can be bought in bulk and then only claim what you need (they are useful for all sorts of stuff!).
When you go to assemble the camaro accessories on the 3400 block, let me know. There are holes that you need to fill, holes that need drilled out larger, and holes that will need RTV'd when the bolts are run into them. It is all pretty simple once you have the parts in front of you and can see what goes where.
oh yeah, use hockey tape for electrical harnesses. It is easy to tape up, works VERY well, looks factory and is fairly easy to remove.
I think this is one of the most well documented 60° V6 swap threads available! Strong work!!
In reply to Strike_Zero :
Thanks!
Are the pics working for anybody else? They worked for me earlier, but aren't now. Strange, because they are my buddies pics and posts. I wasn't even quoting myself...
Tbey were, but now not. berkeleying photobucket blocked the hotlink
Dusterbd13 said:Tbey were, but now not. berkeleying photobucket blocked the hotlink
I still have all the originals or can pull them and repost. I believe there is a new site for hosting pics for GRM?
Wanna say photoberkit is the new thing. Im using Flickr personally.
Stupid question:
Why the 2.2 flywheel and clutch instead of the 3.4 camaro? Would it have solved the shimming problem?
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