In reply to Dirtydog :
Cut the upright off. Did deeper cuts in the hub. Applied chisel and anger. And we're done.
I nicked two splines with the grinder. This isn't a high hp race car. I think I'll be find. Nut fits smoothly so as long as it slides together tomorrow when I have the time to take the car apart again, I think I'm good. I think I just paid myself about $2 an hour for a used axle.
If only more people knew about the miracle of anti-sieze.
sometimes Kroil can help too.(if there was no anti-seize used on the way in) Stinks terribly, but it's all I use anymore. In the case of the Forester, I wonder if this was still together from day 1 ,I don't think the factory would use anti seize.
It would be the height of irony if the axle turns out to be bad...
Success is a smashing achievement!!!!
so the long bolt through the bottom came out but the axle didnt? hmm
In reply to exotruck :
The axle was just stuck in the hub. I had to cut the knuckle off the hub, split the hub, smash it open with a chisel, and then press it all apart. Went back together in the new hub/knuckle easy and can be. I'm betting that this is the original 280k mile axle. Even if it fails in a short time, it'll be easy to replace.
So the suspension is all back together. New knuckles with new bearings and ball joints, new sway bar end links. Feels good driving around the block.
This is the big news from all of that. No ABS light! Confirmed that the ABS is pumping with a 25mph wet road stop. That makes me happy.
What makes me not happy is the airbag light that is on. A quick google says that an airbag light on with the horn/cruise not working means that the roll spring is probably bad. Off with the steering wheel. It spins freely in every direction. That's bad. Bring it inside, and......ribbon is broken.
This was the stock piece, it still had all the factory zip ties holding the cables together. I'd like to say that it was broken before I got it and it wasn't me that broke it when I swapped steering wheels, but I don't know that for sure. What I do know is that they're $250 unless someone has another source for them. The online Subaru parts stuff says the part number is 98261FC002 but I'm unsure what generations that carries over. There are some used $75 ones on ebay, but I'm not convinced they're swappable.
Any Subaru experts have advice? I can't in any good conscience send my kid out driving in a car without an airbag to save money. Even at $250, that's a fraction of an ambulance ride not to mention the whole hurt kid thing.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Oh ok. Thought you were working on the rear. Wait til you meet the Jesus bolt.
I just had my clock spring apart trying to get horn to work in exo. Seems if one wires bad they all are. The clock spring should be swappable, they are all pretty much the same. Just avoid canbus years. Look for another SF or GD
I know the cruise worked when I had it on the road. Outback’s or Imprezas 98-02 are all the same. Best bet by JY, salvage site, or maybe see if Briane has one laying around.
$100
http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2000-subaru-impreza-clockspring-at-98261fc002/54465-1
off topic you know when next rally x in San Marcos is? Plan on making trip up but I don’t have FB can’t find the dates
In reply to Papabishop :
I was pretty sure that Slammo tested the cruise/horn when we came and got it and it was me that broke it either when chaning the steering wheel or when I had the rack out. And they out again. I'll be more careful next time. Thanks for the link!
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
probably when rack was out, the wheel just spins and spins then
exotruck said:In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Oh ok. Thought you were working on the rear. Wait til you meet the Jesus bolt.
I just had my clock spring apart trying to get horn to work in exo. Seems if one wires bad they all are. The clock spring should be swappable, they are all pretty much the same. Just avoid canbus years. Look for another SF or GD
Jesus bolt is a great name for that one! Not sure how bad it will be on a TX car. In 2008, on my former rust belt all it's life '92 SVX I soaked them daily for two weeks with PB Blaster followed by a 2lb sledge percussion solo. Shockingly they came out!
I have a spare clock spring or two; not sure how much they were rotated when removed from the vehicle though.
There is also an 02 Outback at the Wallisville LKQ that might be worth a shot. I can't find "clock spring" or any other name for it in their part price list so who knows how much they will charge.
In reply to Slammo :
I saw that and looked at my schedule for the next two weeks and looked at the weather and decided to just buy the one linked to above. I'm usually able to look at my cars in isolation and decide what's the most logical course, but I've got the 911 on jack stands waiting for me to pull the exhaust manifolds so I can pull and replace oil lines, and the R63 is going into the dealer to day to fix the oil leak that requires dropping the cross member (I think) that I don't want to do. Give all of that, just spending money and getting a part in the mail seemed like the easy way through this.
Running Forester. No ABS light. No airbag light. No check engine light. I'm ready to drive this.
Insured and a legal 30 day paper plate is on the car! Kids will be excited to get picked up in this fine machine today.
Filled it up with gas for the first time. It's been running great on multi-year old gas so a nice full tank of premium can only make things better. 40 miles of roads, neighborhood, some 75mph freeway, a bunch of 55-60. Drives pretty ok. There is a bunch of wind noise from the missing windshield trim and the shifter rattles. AC blows cold enough on a sunny 95 degree day that I have to turn it down. Tracks straight. There is a....rattle?...in the steeing over sharp bumps at slow speeds. Steering doesn't feel loose anywhere else so I'm thinking strut tops unless anyone has a different idea. I think the struts themselves are ok. It's just kind of tall and soft and exactly what it looks like. Still below Challenge budget but too tall to legally AX so that's pretty much a bust for this year. Not 100% certain I would want to drive it 12 hours each way anyway. It needs valve cover seals and both of the belts are on their last legs. Time to order more parts!
mazdeuce - Seth said:There is a....rattle?...in the steeing over sharp bumps at slow speeds. Steering doesn't feel loose anywhere else so I'm thinking strut tops unless anyone has a different idea. I think the struts themselves are ok.
makes sense to me, that's what the tragic Slo-nata did under similar conditions before freeing the top of the mount
Check the nuts on the top of the shock towers.
Mine started as a rattle, getting progressively louder and scarier until I noticed the nut on the shock was loose.
Awesome to see it back on the road! I never messed with suspension in my ownership, sure top hats are dry rotted though. I did replace bushing on shifter, maybe linkage is little loose? Might have missed it but did you post pic of sticker on hatch glass?
Shocks are all tight so new strut tops are on the way. Just to be clear, the clunk/rattle is VERY minor and wouldn't bother me at all if the car was for me, but I'm putting my kid behind the wheel so I'm doing it right.
This is the sticker on the back of the car that Papabishop is talking about. I can't bring myself to scrape it off. On this car, it's funny.
In reply to mazdeuce - Seth :
Being a geotechnical engineer, I always say dirt is for growin’ taters. It’s called soil, dammit.
If you really want to autox it at the Challenge, I have a set of struts from a 9-2X Aero you can borrow. You may be able to raid the Slammo Subaru Parts Emporium (my full and disorderly garage) for some Outback sway bars that may be bigger than stock. There aren't a lot of Subarus in the local salvage yards at the moment unfortunately.
Shifter linkage replacement would be straightfoward except it's a real pain to get to, and there are two concentric roll pins that you have to punch out and then hammer back in. A new OEM joint is around $45 from a dealer IIRC. If you want a hand with that let me know.
You did the timing belt already, right?
In reply to Slammo :
Timing belt and water pump were the first things. Also did the shifter bushing underneath last week. I read a good tutorial saying to leave the car in 5th to get good access to the roll pin and it wasn't bad at all.
I appreciate the Saab parts but I think I'm a spectator again this year and I'm cool with that.
On to the sorting this car as a daily. It's a little different frame of mind than bringing it back from the dead. Started with new wipers and making sure the washers front and rear work. They do.
While I was under the hood I found that the high side AC is leaking just a bit where the line bolts to the condenser. I'll have to pop that apart, replace the O-ring and recharge. Still makes cold so I'm going to see if I can't do the rest of my running today with it how it is. No cans of R134 at home right now.
You'll need to log in to post.
