2021 Challenge.. Blind "bugeye", Riggamort

Rotisseries are the way to go when doing a full build. This was made using two engine stands as the start. Inflatable tires make it actually movable compared to hard casters.

Be aware that the second the car comes off the spiner, it is in the way and you will be happy to lend it to anyone who wants it for as long as they want.

Pretty much assembled the whole car on the spinner when doing the Molvo. The exhaust would have been no fun laying on my back under the car.

When doing a lot of structural work, I like to build in a flat and level  surface jig so that I can reference points on the tub, so I just build the spinner off the end of the jigs.

Total overkill when I did the Bugeye

This image has been burned into my head for years:

I'd love to build something exactly like it.  It combines my love of classic hot rod looks, with the size and handling of British sports cars.  I've tried to get as much information about it as I can, but best I can tell is that it's a Bugeye tub on a Triumph Spitfire chassis.

Perhaps you could pull off something similar as a stepping stone to your ultimate goal.  That would allow you time to get the current "eyeless" bonnet sorted out while enjoying the car.

 In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :

The eyeless bonnet is perfect and you shall be quiet 

Indy "Nub" Guy said:

This image has been burned into my head for years:

 

I'd love to build something exactly like it.  It combines my love of classic hot rod looks, with the size and handling of British sports cars.  I've tried to get as much information about it as I can, but best I can tell is that it's a Bugeye tub on a Triumph Spitfire chassis.

 

Perhaps you could pull off something similar as a stepping stone to your ultimate goal.  That would allow you time to get the current "eyeless" bonnet sorted out while enjoying the car.

Oh, that's hot.

In reply to Indy "Nub" Guy :

"best I can tell is that it's a Bugeye tub on a Triumph Spitfire chassis." With a '35 Ford Grill shell and insert. So there's a smidge more info for you . . . I've got that image in a folder myself. Might try looking on the H.A.M.B. they hate that sort of thing and, as such, it usually turns up there.

Alright, Got the car up on cribs today! That really was all I did, with the help of the friend who's garage it's in. It's now tall enough to crawl under it from side to side. So, now I can see that the trans mount is actually a 2x4, including carriage bolts, and the fuel line is less than great. I also learned that the trans is a 350 (thanks, Warren, for the tip!)

I had to pull both rear mufflers off to be able to get stands under the axles on the way up, as the mufflers actually interfere against the differential and against a bolt on the outside when at ride height. 

Enjoy what's below - I'll try to get over and actually work on it a little more in the coming week or two.

Here are both engine mounts..

Here's the rear differential

aaand the very short driveshaft

And my personal favorite/icing on the cake, 2x4 transmission crossmember.

Exhaust/starter clearance, fuel lines and fuel filter down the passenger side.

In reply to classicJackets (FS) :

I’m not sure that’s how I wood mount a trans. 

 love the bugeye WITHOUT the eyes !

Looks like a vintage race car  of unknown make

Well, at least a steel trans crossmember will be easy to make.

What the.........? How does the rear suspension move when the "drive shaft" is just a single U-joint ?  The tail shaft of the transmission has to moving and stressing the spruce trans mount.

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

Pretty sure there's a u-joint at the diff and another very different u-joint at the tail of the trans.  And less than a foot of driveshaft from the looks of it from here.

Pretty much nowhere to go with the enginering but upwards with this car.

In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :

It is a pair of U-joints, with no more than 4" of shaft between them

classicJackets (FS) said:

In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :

It is a pair of U-joints, with no more than 4" of shaft between them

could you use a sliding shaft like a 240Z rear axle ?

Looks like a slip yoke on the trans, so he should be as ok as that sketchy setup can be. Theres room for movement at least...

Yep there are 2 u joints and a slip yoke, it will work.  It's basically short enough to be a double cardan joint

I am amazed that the front supports the engine without a cross member..   that's kinda an important part of the Spridget.  

I would make a new one, that one has a serious phase issue built into it if I'm seeing things correctly.

Looks like an 8" Ford rearend to me. 

I suggest most of your budget bucks go to safety. At least a 6 point roll bar/harnesses, etc. 

It will be cool to watch your progress.

wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:

Looks like an 8" Ford rearend to me. 

I suggest most of your budget bucks go to safety. At least a 6 point roll bar/harnesses, etc. 

It will be cool to watch your progress.

Looks more like a '55-64 Chevy drop out center section to me. What bolt pattern are the wheels?

wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) (Forum Supporter) said:

Looks like an 8" Ford rearend to me. 

I suggest most of your budget bucks go to safety. At least a 6 point roll bar/harnesses, etc. 

It will be cool to watch your progress.

He posted a picture of the rear view at some point.  It has the hump to clear a 9", which no 8" ever had stock.

nocones said:

I am amazed that the front supports the engine without a cross member..   that's kinda an important part of the Spridget.  

Having never seen an empty/stock engine bay, I can tell you the main crossmember further forward is still there - this is midway back. I'll look into adding bracing between these as the welds don't look that great either.

The MGB race car that we bought had 2 X 4 wooden blocks between the springs and axle to lower the rear end. They'd been there in place and under constant use for almost thirty years. Don't discount a good piece of 2 X 4, kiln dried and treated, they're the building block of all house construction and probably a good many automobiles as well . . . 

This is awesome. That is all. I'd love to keep that paintwork. And remove all carbon fiber from the car- even transmission mounts.

Racingsnake said:

Looks more like a '55-64 Chevy drop out center section to me. What bolt pattern are the wheels?

Does look like what's in This Ad, although I cant see the drain plug on the one in the ad. The rest of it looks spot on - but I'll try to measure bolt pattern or look for casting marks next time over there.

In reply to classicJackets (FS) :

If it is Chevy, it would be worth checking gear ratio and if it's a posi. The early Corvette guys (and 409 Impala guys) will pay good money for them. Might be able to sell it and get a 9" or 8.8" for similar money and end up with a much better rear end.

The trans mount is awesome - when I read 2x4 I was thinking box section and that it sounded overkill, then I saw the pics and realized it was wood! 

This is going to be so cool when it's running. Definitely needs some safety/engineering upgrades but I'd keep some of the rough edges, they add to the charm.