$50 best bad idea I've had

Can't wait to get home and try it!

Anxiously awaiting my supreme victory

Video or it didn't happen.

You just gonna leave us hanging?

He is either driving or still crankin'

The key fit the ignition, excellent!

I re-installed the battery and got it snuggled into the factory blanket:

Then............

http://vid414.photobucket.com/albums/pp221/bgkast/20150508_170438_zpspqdeggqg.mp4

Well, that's progress! Technically it started the first try so the prize goes to Nick Comstock... PM me to receive your fabulous prize!

The security system seemed to be happy. The fuel gauge showed empty so I added 2 gallons of premium...Same result, crank, sputter, dies. Further attempts result in just cranking; no more sputters. I pulled the plugs, they were wet, so it's getting fuel. Cleaned off the plugs, put them back in crank sputter die... throttle seems to make it die faster, other than the one time it revved in the video.

Further diagnosis was interrupted by a cubscout meeting.

Now to the Googles!

Other interesting facts:

All windows (except the one Mr. Meth broke the regulator on work, sunroof works, radio works (even with the key out?!), and even the CD changer seems to be functional. Unfortunately all the pixals don't work.

Also I got a notarized bill of sale today, so fingers crossed the State Patrol inspection should go OK.

I'll try borrowing the ignition cassette from my neighbor's car tomorrow. Very convenient having one to borrow parts from.

This is excellent! My limited T5 experience with dead cars were either DI or CPS, or fuel pumps, which you've already ruled out.

Good news if you need a DI, a real OEM one from AutoZone or Rock for 150-200 now, vs 250-400 a few years ago.

Dude, That was awesome.

And I no longer feel so bad about my grass.

Thanks for a pair of things to start my Saturday right.

Bad maf maybe? Ive had them give me both crank and run 2 seconds and die and run real rich and like crap

XLR99 wrote: Good news if you need a DI, a real OEM one from AutoZone or Rock for 150-200 now, vs 250-400 a few years ago.

$199 at Rock, $320 at autozon and $800! At NAPA.

I think I'll borrow one from the neighbor to test.

I was hoping it would just start up and run well. Hopefully it's not going to be a major issue.

bgkast wrote:

XLR99 wrote: Good news if you need a DI, a real OEM one from AutoZone or Rock for 150-200 now, vs 250-400 a few years ago.

$199 at Rock, $320 at autozon and $800! At NAPA. I think I'll borrow one from the neighbor to test.

Wow didn't realize they were going back up in cost already - I got one a few months ago for 200 from AZ & saw someone last week mention RA had them for 150.

This thread delivers!

I hit the junkyard today and picked up two more ignition cassettes, a crank position sensor and even found an owner's manual for the correct year. The car I pulled the crank sensor and one of the ignition cassettes from looked like it ran well enough to crash into something hard enough to blow the airbags.

When I got home I tried both of the cassettes and the crank position sensor...no joy.

I noticied when I crank the engine the tach only reads sporadically, and my OBD reader shows 0 rpm with an occasional spike. I think the computer isn't reading RPMs correctly. The battery needs charging so I can play with it more, and maybe data log the RPMS when cranking.

Nope, that's not the problem...back to the drawing board.

Log of two cranking attempts.

200 rpm does not seem like enough rpms?...

In reply to Mad_Ratel:

That is very true. When I made that log the battery had only been charging briefly.

It looked like it was going to rain last night andI didn't want to leave the battery charger out and the hood open, so I left the hood cracked so I could throw the charger back on before work. Today when I went to open it (running late as usual) I was greeted by a very angry SAAB shrieking that the hood had been opened with the car locked. I ran inside for the keys, but had no idea where I had put them after yesterday's late-night data logging. When I finally found them and got back to the car it had stopped yelling, but was still flashing its lights menacingly. I'm sure the neighbors love me...

It's back on the charger now, so I will see what kind of cranking RPMs I get this evening. It didn't sound like it was cranking slowly though.

Fun! Just wait until it locks you out for slamming the door too hard

Maybe it was just a quirk of ours, but that did happen...

In reply to ¯_(ツ)_/¯:

I'll be careful not to piss the car off! I thought I had made it happy and it would start right up after I replaced the exhaust hanger and gave it a tail-pipe massage, but I guess it doesn't swing that way.

Well spark isn't my issue.

http://s414.photobucket.com/user/bgkast/media/20150511_204633_zpsxwnpunqm.mp4.html

I put in the new plugs I did that test with, no change. When I first started I swear I could hear the fuel pump priming, but I can't anymore, even with the access cover pulled.

Using a test light hooked to ground I tested for power at the fuel pump fuse and have power there when cranking. I then tested for power at the three wires of the pump harness. I have power all of the time at the white wire, and no power at the brown or green wore when cranking or otherwise...seems odd. I wonder if this is related to the radio always having power, even with the key out.

I need to find a wiring diagram...

My Saabs always have power to the radio. It should turn off with the key, but be able to turn on with the power button. I would make sure the key and the twice are playing together. I thought they needed to be bought together so the chip in the key would communicate.

If it turns out your fuel pump is toast, I have a new Bosch replacement you can have for the price of shipping.

bgkast wrote:

XLR99 wrote: Good news if you need a DI, a real OEM one from AutoZone or Rock for 150-200 now, vs 250-400 a few years ago.

$199 at Rock, $320 at autozon and $800! At NAPA. I think I'll borrow one from the neighbor to test.

did you end up trying a new MAF? im not sure about saab but maybe just unplug it and try starting it. My audi wouldnt start/run right when my MAF went bad and when i would unplug it then it would run just fine in a limp home mode.

In reply to edizzle89:

As far as I can tell T5 Saabs don't have a MAF.