$50 best bad idea I've had

In reply to ¯_(ツ)_/¯:

Thank you! This forum is awesome.

I did some more playing last night and this morning before work. Like I mentioned above I have power at both sides of the fuel pump fuse only when cranking (10.6 volts...my battery may be a bit weak). After I stop cranking there is a few seconds where I still have power, then I can hear a relay click and power goes away at the fuse.

When I test for power at the fuel pump harness I get 5 volts to the White wire and nothing to the Brown and Blue wire. When the car has been sitting for an extended period I have no voltage at any of the wires, but as soon as the key is cycled I get 5v at the white wire, even with the key out of the ignition. I have a feeling one of those wires I'm getting no voltage at is the ground, and the other should be 12v.

Does anybody have access to a wiring diagram? Google is useless...

Autozone has wiring diagrams on the website. Gotta register though.Try there.

Sounds like the fuel pump relay is working properly.

It should kill the pump if the engine doesn't start to avoid flooding, etc.

Fully charge the battery and see if there are any diagnostics available vie the ECU to determine if it can find a fault (like a bad map sensor or a broken vacuum line, bad TPS, etc.). Some systems will blink codes at you via the check engine light, etc. though many will give you more detailed info via a scanner or a laptop loaded with diagnostic software.

You could also attempt to spray some starting fluid down the throttle body before attempting to start it again. If it runs for a bit and dies then something is killing the fuel pump or starving the engine of fuel and I'd probably start with jumping the pump with a 12v battery pack to see if it runs and you can verify its fuel pressure at the rail or regulator.

No wiring diagram available on autozone for this orphan unfortunately.

Yes, the fuel pump relay seems to be working, I'm just not sure that power is getting back to the pump. I should try the carb cleaner trick. No codes stored in the ECU. I will try jumping the fuel pump with 12v once I can confirm which wire should be powering the pump (probably the blue one).

Well since you've spent well over one hundred dollars on this car so far, just pony up the $15 for a Chilton/Haynes manual.

In reply to RossD:

The only Haynes Manuals for these seem to be British. I ordered a CD FSM but it won't be here for a week...

OK, further work revealed that I was following some bad info and diagnosing the wrong electrical connector... Now that I have that sorted I do indeed have power to the pump wires, but no fuel pump action.

I may take you up on that fuel pump offer Mr. Shrugs/NONACK.

Im sure you thought of this, but... try a few (ok a lot of) Hard Pounding on the fuel tank (or on the pump itself if you can get to it) while someone cranks the engine. This worked on my Camaro to free the stuck pump. It may not work, but its worth a try.

In reply to bgkast:

If you want it PM me and we can exchange details. I also have a T5 DI casette which (theoretically) works.

In reply to bgkast:

PM me too and I will get you a copy of a very helpful CD that I have.

PMs sent, thanks guys!

In reply to sanyarcosean:

I am planning to give it a few whollops tonight, and stare at it angrly, but when that doesn't work I will probably start dropping the tank this weekend. I don't think I can bring myself to hack a big hole in the sheet metal like so:

Also don't forget about Gary Small SAAB on SE 82nd in Portland, they may have some parts, experience, etc to help you with.

In reply to turboswede: Thanks, I'll check with them if I get stuck.

It looks like the 9-5 has a bigger access hole that allows you to... you know access the pump. I'm thinking about grabbing the plug from one of those and making a hole to fit it. Probably easier than dropping the tank, and not a hack job like the above photo.

Any structural concerns with opening up another hole in the sheet metal under the seat?

In reply to bgkast:

Nah, the holes in the flat sections shouldn't be an issue as long as they aren't too big, most of the load is typically carried by the larger folded sections around them.

Worst case you could always add some sheet metal back in place with some structural adhesive and rivets (to avoid welding).

Your parts have begun their cross-country journey

Thank you! As predicted beating on the pump and glaring at it had no effect, even when I did both at the same time.

In reply to bgkast:

Did you use a big enough hammer and apply a little stink eye? I love cutting my own fuel pump access holes in cars that dont have them, very stress relieving

It might also help to cuss at the fuel pump. However, it likely only understands Swedish.

knulla dig fuel pump!

I believe this is the correct approach.

I had to replace the fuel pump in my 99 9-3 and dropped the tank. Overall it was not a bad job except for unscrewing the pump. SAAB must have a tool for it so I had to get creative.

I crawled under it and the tank strap bolts don't look bad (thank you pacific northwest). They are soaking now, and tank removal will commence this afternoon. I decided I may as well try to drop the tank since I have a few days until the pump arrives. Thanks again Nonack!

The surgery was a sucess.

Wow, that's surprising that there's not an access hatch. Was the fuel system in these designed by the GM 'service difficulty' department?

I know the later 9-5s switched to plastic fuel connectors from the banjos that worked fine for years to save a few bucks or something.

XLR99 wrote: Was the fuel system in these designed by the GM 'service difficulty' department?

Yes, I think so. There is an access hole, but it only lets you access the wiring, and fuel lines once the tank is lowered.