¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 8:55 a.m.

The fancy aux shaft was in stock!  The guy did pretty strongly suggest that I buy a better oil pan and a windage tray as well, suggesting that oil cavitation in the pump may be what kills the gears.  Have to think about that one.

I'm also quite sick of the thing breaking, I think I may turn the boost down a couple psi and install a shift light to keep it under 6k rpm.  It's kind of confusing to me that I literally have to dial it back from stock in order for it to survive with improved parts everywhere, when the "claim" is that these should survive rally use just fine with a way less involved setup, but whatever, I just want usable power and to stop blowing up.  We were only a teeny bit slower with the boost at 10psi on the last stage of BRS last year anyway.

fidelity101
fidelity101 UltraDork
9/24/18 1:42 p.m.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ said:

Parts for a hopefully DNF-proof TFI system have been ordered.  I also got some Maxxis 195s that I picked up a while ago mounted and painted the wheels, and did the snow set for our Subaru while I was at it:  

I have tons of this wrap stuff laying around that is an excellent idea for painting wheels!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 1:44 p.m.

In reply to fidelity101 :

It works for masking the majority of the tire, I find that cramming paper (index cards, magazine pages, whatever) in around the edge of the rim is still best for the innermost bit though.  The plastic gets too crinkly and doesn't make a super clean line.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 2:06 p.m.

On shift light settings- thanks to Tremec's nifty gear ratio calculator, it looks like with my T-5 I can set a shift light at 5500rpm and, if I shift there, it will drop me right into the 3500rpm sweet spot of the powerband in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.  That will also give me some headroom should I need the extra revs before a corner.  And I have a fancy adjustable cam pulley I can advance to help with that area as well.

java230
java230 UltraDork
9/24/18 3:27 p.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

That sounds like fancy race car stuff! Planning for powerbands?! Fancy :D

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 3:29 p.m.

In reply to java230 :

Apparently my previous technique of "rev the berkeley out of it" was just fine for rotaries but not so great for ancient tractor engines with a snail on the side cheeky

EDIT: In real race cars you plan your gearing to take advantage of the powerband, though.  I'm just figuring out how much I can neuter the thing without it getting really slow.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 4:33 p.m.

Anyone care to weigh in on the necessity of a windage tray/fancy pan or the validity of oil pump cavitation as a cause for this failure?  In theory this engine doesn't need anything more than a stock pump and oil pan but in theory it shouldn't be broken either.  I'm not excited about the idea of buying a fancy pan for an engine that gets dropped onto rocks.

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 MegaDork
9/24/18 4:45 p.m.

Dumb question: stock cam qnd stock cam material? Small block mopars eat factory distributor drives with aftermarket cams due to a mayerial mismatch.  Could that be the case here?

java230
java230 UltraDork
9/24/18 4:50 p.m.

Run an extra half/full quart? I know that was the cheap trick for some motors.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/24/18 6:03 p.m.

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Non-stock roller cam.  The distributor/oil pump are driven off of an entirely separate shaft on this engine, which is itself driven by the timing belt as seen in this diagram:  

You would think that this would mean it's not prone to the same issues as the typical cam-driven distributor arrangement, but apparently that isn't the case.  The billet aux shaft/bronze gear arrangement I ordered today should do the trick, provided everything is meshing correctly.

Apparently the enemy of this drive setup is engine rpm, hence my discussion of just how low an artificial rev limit I can impose on myself.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/28/18 6:39 p.m.

Shift light!  I bought a cheap one on eBay, looks like this:  

I hid it inside the dash since it's big and ugly and there was space in there- a little hole saw work lets me see it:  

I can still reach the back to adjust it, although I'll have to wait until the car actually runs again to see if the tachometer wire I spliced into gives it the signal it wants.

 

I put the car up on the lift, drained the oil, suspended the engine with a ratchet strap, and dropped the subframe down enough to get the oil pan off:  

Then I fished around in the pan with a magnet until I stopped getting gear chunks.  I pulled out about a half dozen "hauls" similar to this:  

Then, to make sure that any bits I missed don't go anywhere important, I put enough magnets on the engine to give the Insane Clown Posse a stroke.  Big bar magnet on the oil filter:  

New magnetic drain plug, and another bar magnet on the pan.  The bar magnets are really strong, so I just put a little epoxy putty at the ends and let them pull themselves down and squish it:  

Then I put the pan back on, subframe back up, and motor mounts back on.  The distributor (I'm using my spare since it seems to have better bearings than the one that stripped) needed to be drilled out for the new gear's larger roll pin:  

Shiny:

Then... I got hung up.  I removed the old aux shaft bearing using my typical technique of cutting a slot in it and popping it out- usually after that, I pull my new bearing out of the freezer, line it up, and just tap it in with something heavy.  For whatever reason the new bearing is having none of that E36 M3 this time, it gets like a third of the way in and then cocks and pops itself back out of the bore.  I'm hoping that leaving it in the freezer overnight and hitting the block with a heat gun prior to installation will let it get in there, since there's not enough room for any real press type tool with the engine in the car.

tester
tester New Reader
9/28/18 7:27 p.m.
Dusterbd13 said:

Dumb question: stock cam qnd stock cam material? Small block mopars eat factory distributor drives with aftermarket cams due to a mayerial mismatch.  Could that be the case here?

Good thought.  I suggested the same earlier in this thread.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
9/29/18 12:42 p.m.

In reply to tester :

The aux drive was all stock parts so that wasn't the issue.  They're known to fail under race use, hence the upgrade.

About the upgrade: I figured out a way to press the bearing in:  

There are enough bolts around it that the bar can be placed across the bearing a couple different ways, so it doesn't go in cocked.  Then I made an unfortunate discovery: the billet aux shaft that I was sent is .5mm smaller at the bearing races than it should be.  Esslinger offers one for stock Ford blocks, and one for their race block which uses roller bearings instead of journal bearings- this would account for the difference, and I think I was mistakenly sent one intended for an Esslinger block.  Unfortunately there's not much I can do about it until they acknowledge the goof and ship me the right one.  frown

At least I have an excuse to ignore it and enjoy the lovely weather for the rest of the weekend.

irish44j
irish44j UltimaDork
9/29/18 9:11 p.m.

Ah, if I had known you needed a shift light I would have sent you mine. I have that exact one sitting around here someplace that used to be on the e30 (my newer tach came with one). I found it to be pretty good, for as cheap as it was.

RE: tires painting....happy you're turning over a new leaf of cosmetic work ;)

darkbuddha
darkbuddha HalfDork
10/19/18 1:05 p.m.

I'm really enjoying this build, especially since I'm working on building my current XR project in a similar spirit, mainly in prep for the GRM Challenge.  I'm glad to have a point of reference for the kinds of E36 M3 I can look forward to fixing that my previous street XR never suffered.  Thanks.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
10/19/18 8:51 p.m.

In reply to darkbuddha :

The XR4Ti is probably not a bad choice for the challenge- most of the things that have gone wrong on mine seem to be related to using it hard for a long time, so I bet if you get yours functioning well it will do just fine for an autocross and a couple drag passes.  It is one of my least favorite cars to work on, though. cheeky

While I was away at the challenge, my new correctly sized Esslinger aux shaft arrived- if anything they sent me an oversize one this time.  The new aux shaft bearings needed to be reamed to size so I turned one of my destroyed stock shafts into a tool by cutting a slot in it:  

Grease, insert, spin, remove excess bearing material:  

Then I put the new shaft in, went to install the pulley, and Esslinger's berkeleying dowel pin sticks out too far for the stock pulley!  Filed the pulley until it fit:  

Buttoned it all back up, set the timing for the millionth time, set my fancy new shift light, and drove it briefly.  The misfire is gone,  the engine feels strong despite my new self-imposed 5500rpm redline and lowered boost, and while the shift light doesn't seem to be perfectly accurate it does do a good job of reminding me to keep the revs down.  At this point I need to do some more driving and see if anything else feels like breaking.

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
10/20/18 5:41 a.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

Awesome!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
10/20/18 10:30 a.m.

I drove it a few more times and played with the cam timing a bit- at 13psi, shifting at 5500rpm, 6 degrees of cam advance seems to be the sweet spot to keep the torque curve nice and flat the whole time.  Will drive a bit more and change the oil, since I'm sure it's now circulating pieces of the old chewed up distributor gear as well as whatever came off the new one upon initial break-in.

paranoid_android
paranoid_android UltraDork
10/21/18 8:42 a.m.

Excellent progress!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
10/22/18 5:32 a.m.

I changed the oil yesterday- there were minimal bits of steel left floating from the old gear getting chewed up, and some gold sparklies from the new gear wearing in.  I want to get another distributor and matching Esslinger gear and use my current set as a spare, since I think it's worn in now.

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
10/22/18 8:54 a.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

Nice! Are you going to start commuting it it to build up some confidence in its reliability? 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
10/22/18 9:06 a.m.

In reply to Pete Gossett :

After I get the new distributor in I will- I think the one that's in there now has less than perfect bearings so I don't want to push it, would much rather have it as a "this just needs to finish the rally" spare than chew it up on my way to work one day.

Robbie
Robbie UltimaDork
10/22/18 9:17 a.m.

I'm a fan of removing a few RPM for longevity. I think you might find you can keep the boost the same or even up the boost a bit, mechanically a few extra hundred RPM is WAAAAY harder on an engine than a few extra pounds of boost (assuming you have the fuel and spark).

Also, I think neither will matter much when you are screaming through the woods shooting rooster tails and doing sweet jumps.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ UberDork
10/22/18 11:00 a.m.

In reply to Robbie :

Nothing matters much when you're doing that laugh  

My plan is to keep it just as I have it for now, but know that the headroom is there for more boost if I need it.  I honestly don't think it's really down on power compared to the tired old engine at higher boost anyway, but there may very well be a time where we're a few seconds off of the podium going into the last stage of a rally and I just spin the boost controller back in 1.5 turns for 18psi of catching up power devil

Pete Gossett
Pete Gossett MegaDork
10/22/18 12:06 p.m.

In reply to ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ :

So you’ll be installing a bright red “Turbo Boost” button, hopefully just slightly out of reach?

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