Insanely jealous of the simplicity of your blower. The 911 is easy, the 964 is dumb.
Can't wait to see the paint. Trying to figure out how to justify driving down from the UP this summer to watch a rallycross. My wife's grandparents live pretty close to where you guys run.......
mazdeuce wrote: Insanely jealous of the simplicity of your blower. The 911 is easy, the 964 is dumb. Can't wait to see the paint. Trying to figure out how to justify driving down from the UP this summer to watch a rallycross. My wife's grandparents live pretty close to where you guys run.......
do it
Got back from Europe and couldn't wait to see what progress Ice Nine Group had achieved with the car. I guess they decided to wrap it.
Er.....WOW!
Much better
Paint may be obsolete! Looks really nice in white.
Big push over the next few weeks to get the car ready for the Porsche Parade at the end of June while simultaneously prepping it to tackle Autocross and track days as well as it's primary purpose; RallyCross. If there's one car that can shine at all three disciplines it's a 911.
By way of a warm up exercise we installed the repaired speedo/odometer and replaced the clock with a volt meter.
Then, onto the lowering project. When we replaced the broken rear torsion bar we set the car quite high as it had no underbody protection so was a little vulnerable. At 28" front and rear it was at least further away from the nasty stuff. Now, with skidplates etc installed and the looming track and autocross season it seems prudent to return it to something approaching stock ride height. For the US this seems to be 25.5 front and 25" rear as far as we can tell. This is measured from the floor to the top of the wheel arch.
This was measured with 195/65-15 rally tires at 32psi which happen to be the same diameter as the stock tires.
We didn't get chance to measure a baseline when we got the car as we broke the torsion almost immediately but we did measure the angle of the unaffected spring plate at 34.5* using a handy iPhone app.
so we thought we'd aim for this. Reading the workshop manual also suggests the spring plate angle for this car (US spec) should be 35* so it should produce something similar to stock ride height.
The plates were both where we set them last time at 40.7 and 39.9
With the torsion bars having 40 splines on the inside and 44 splines on the outside we figured you could tweak the angle in increments of 0.8 by turning one spline in and one spline out. On the left side we were looking for a 5.7 change in angle. If we divide that by 0.8 we get 7.125 which should mean if we turn the bar on the inner splines by 7 then the outer end by seven in the opposite direction it should result in about 35*. In effect, you can't turn the spring plate 7 splines as you have to take it off to turn the inner splines but, if you adjust the inner to 7 then in theory you should be able to put the spring plate back on in a position that would correspond to 7 splines of outer adjustment. Even though that's a bit long winded it actually worked, on both sides of the car, almost perfectly. The only problem being that when we bolted it all back together we only got to 26.75" of ride height! This is with the dampers still unbolted and the suspension bounced a few times so it should be accurate right? Maybe the car has lost more rear weight recently than we appreciate. I think we will be dialing out some more height later today.
At least while we were in there we did get to replace our missing torsion bar end cap cover with one from a Pelican. Thanks Bob.
Possibly the most significant modification we plan isn't to the car but to the driver. Cheap too.
:)
I drove the car home last night and noticed that the voltage on the new voltmeter was all over the place. At idle it was around 14 but driving it would fluctuate between 14 and 18. This can't be good.
Do I need a new regulator?
Are they easy to source and replace?
Anything else that should be done at the same time?
Pulled out the alternator. Doesn't look to bad but I think I will just replace the whole thing. What do you think?
Nice and clean in there
Today we ordered an alternator off eBay. Then replaced the front wheel studs with longer ones:
Then found we are going to need a new tie rod end sooner or later :(
Today we ordered an alternator off eBay. Then replaced the front wheel studs with longer ones:
Then found we are going to need a new tie rod end sooner or later :(
teamilluminata wrote: Today we ordered an alternator off eBay. Then replaced the front wheel studs with longer ones:
I like your wheel stud installation tool. Never thought to use one that way.
Nitroracer wrote:teamilluminata wrote: Today we ordered an alternator off eBay. Then replaced the front wheel studs with longer ones:I like your wheel stud installation tool. Never thought to use one that way.
I've done it a few times now. Works pretty well especially if I hit it with my impact gun. On this one the studs did not go in perfectly straight. You couldn't see it but when I tried a spacer over them they were splayed out just enough so it would go over them. Effective PCD at the ends ~131 vs 130. I put some old nuts on the ends and hit them with a hammer till the spacer fit over.
Installed a remanufactured alternator.
Though a little fiddly it all went back OK, until the final step:
Why is my belt now slack, even with zero shims? :confused:
Is the pulley and the base of the valley in the pulley of the remanufactured alternator the same diameter as the old one?
Is the "V" the same pitch?
The_Jed wrote: Is the pulley and the base of the valley in the pulley of the remanufactured alternator the same diameter as the old one? Is the "V" the same pitch?
All those parts as the same as before. Only the alternator was changed.
Who has 2 thumbs and knows diddly squat about Porsches?
<----This guy! 
Installed a new belt courtesy of Munk's Motors. Also bought an extra 2 shims. You can see the old belt is significantly narrower then the new one.
Problem solved. Though it did need only 2 shims inside, 4 outside. Will check it next week.
Voltage is now a steady 13.8V :)
Back to the lowering saga. If you remember we were trying to lower the car back to stock US ride height of 25.5" front and 25" rear. We had set the spring plates at 35* which, with our stock torsion bars should result in this. But it didn't! Instead returning about 26.75".
So we tried again with 32* which we calculated based on how many inches of lowering we got per degree of spring plate inclination change from the previous attempt. This resulted in 24.5" ride height which is lower than we want.
What's going on? Well, it turns out the car appears to settle quite a lot if left overnight or driven. I thought bouncing it would settle it but apparently not. The 26.75" was measured after just bouncing the car. The 24.5" after letting the car sit overnight. Solution: set the spring plates to 33* and leave it overnight. Result: 25.5" of rear ride height. YAY. Then we set the fronts to 26" rather than 25.5" for a little more front clearance and took some pictures because it just looks so darn cool in the sun IMHO.
OBJECTS IN MIRROR MAY BE PASSING YOU SOON.
Next: mud flaps.
.
Heck ya, that looks great!
Finally got the car out now all the salt has washed off the roads.
So, I drove all three of these today, not at the same time, and, after pondering over a cup of tea I think I have concluded that, at least on the street, I prefer to drive the Quattro!
Here's some pictures of the meet we took the cars too:
Mud flaps are essential for Rally Bling. They also help keep stone chips at bay. We normally use Rally Armor Urethane in red but recently discovered these light and cheaper offerings from Sparco so we thought we'd try them out. So, how to mount them? On previous projects we have drilled holes in the fender flanges and inner fender wells but the 911's fender flanges are kind of thin. Might have to get creative. The right side should be easy as we already have flat aluminium surface protecting the oil lines:
but the left side might be more difficult:
However, after offering up the mud flaps it was obvious that a few strategically placed aluminium brackets attached to existing fasteners would provide the necessary support. The fronts would just require drilling into the inner footwell and rocker panel end caps:
The top bolt is clamping the fender flange between two large washers. We will probably replace them with even larger ones in the future though.
I have always found it tricky to get mud flaps vertical, even heights and roughly in the center of the tire. I think this one worked out pretty well first attempt though they may need raising at some point.
This weekend we put some new rally rubber on a set of BRAID Winrace TA wheels and mounted them on the car. Tires are used Michelin gravels, 205/65-15 rear and 175/70-15 front. The wheels are also drilled for BMW. (one never knows). Now we have two sets of RallyCross wheels for the car. A set for dry and a set for mud which also work in snow,
We also mounted our autocross and track day tires on some BRAID BZ wheels. Tires are the new BFG Rival which, by all accounts are incredible. 205/50-15 in the front and 225/45-15 in the rear. Wheels are 7x15, ET23 front, 8x15, ET10 rear. Not as much rubber as some are running but we went with lightness and low rolling diameter rather than ultimate grip. Still, 225 is not too shabby for a 230hp, 2700lb car.
We have been wondering why our Porsche came with the same size battery as our Mercedes Sprinter van for some time. This was made more intriguing by a used PC680 battery sitting on our parts shelf. Well, this week we cracked and threw the much lighter PC680 in the car spurred on by a desire to corner balance and align the car in the near future. We have used these batteries without any issues in our previous RallyCross project. We just kept that on a Battery Tender when not in use. Has never let us down. Let's see if the 911 likes it.
No surprise it is almost 30lbs lighter.
It almost looks lost in there.
Installed using a crude, cobbled together mounting bracket for now.
Ryan of Thompson Racing Fabrication, the genius who built our harness bar and skid plates is fabricating a more elegant aluminium version for us but at least we can corner balance the car now. We weren't tempted to put this in the smuggler's box like many do as our a/c blower is still in there and as it only weighs ~15lbs does it really matter where it is?
Now where did I put those scales?
.
All loaded up for the autocross at the Silver Dome in Pontiac tomorrow. I have no idea how this car handles on tarmac. Wish us luck.
No cup holders but it does have a Chapstick holder! Does your Fusion have one of these?
We've seen the light!
Well, not quite yet. Lights aren't needed for a while but we couldn't resist drilling holes in the trunk lid.
The view from the "office"
Last Friday we put the autocross wheels on and weighed it. The mud flaps now scrape on the ground!
Might need to tweak the front left or right rear
Firmed up the battery install with a proper bracket from Thompson Racing Fabrication.
and then drove the wheels off it at the autocross
Our 911 Rallycross car autocrossing - YouTube
We also had the car at a PCA track day Tuesday and Saturday we have a RallyCross. PHEW!
You'll need to log in to post.
