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Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy UltraDork
1/6/25 8:28 a.m.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Interesting.  I did not realize that.

 

In reply to captainawesome :

The Renegade hydro clutch kit/linkage is a bit bulky and wants to occupy some of the same space as the throttle linkage (they design their kit for use with a dbw pedal).   I did some clearancing on both the clutch master and throttle linkages, but its do-able.  I also re-routed the throttle cable to avoid some congestion in that area.   I had to order a custom cable from terrycable.com, due to the length and combination of ends, but they were great to deal with.

Its hard to get a good picture of all thats going on in that area.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/9/25 4:05 p.m.

Just got off the phone with Dutchman Axles. I should have the shortened axles shipped out to me next Friday the 17th, possibly the 20th at the latest! I'm really excited to get the confirmation we are good to go.

I also got a small cash injection into the next parts wave, so lots of stuff will be arriving any day now or soon to be on the way. My 1 1/4" Gates Green Stripe coolant hose is here. I'll be test fitting some of that this afternoon I think. My radiator should be here early next week. Rad fan assembly arrived today. All new cheap ebay calipers arrived yesterday, and I already have the 911 parking brake components to start figuring out fitment. I hope to test fit the calipers this weekend to make sure what I got will work with what I have. New cheapo Armstrong Blu Trac 340tw tires for the Riken Mesh wheels should be here early next week. I'm so ready to see those on the car. It should really get some inspiration flowing. The pedal box bushing kit, acc pedal, and some exhaust parts are also on the way. The new brake master won't be here for a month unfortunately but I can press ahead elsewhere for the time being. New clutch master is here and ready to start template work this weekend. The in tank fuel pump assembly is here and ready to fit to the tank.

So LOTS of stuff to do and not much should stop progress when I want to keep moving forward. A snow/ice storm is rolling through which shut my office down this afternoon as well as tomorrow so I have a 3 day weekend to tinker now.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/9/25 8:48 p.m.

Just spent an hour or so poking around testing stuff.

First up was checking caliper fitment. I was worried my rear caliper wasn't going to fit my vented rotors correctly but from what I can tell everything fits up and looks perfect! These were $50 each and don't look or feel cheap. I still need to get new hardware, soft lines, and make some new hard line connections.

I pulled the rotor to look at the hub situation prepping for parking brake fitment. There was a thin spacer behind the rotor I think to get the caliper centered. The rotors are actually in decent shape. No grooves or lip, they just need cleaned up and maybe a coat of paint on the hats.

The front calipers bolted up great as well. I knew this shouldn't be an issue but always good to confirm. They too were $50 a piece, so all in all new calipers were $200. Rebuild kits would have been slightly less and that's not including piston replacement.

With that sorted I wanted to move on to the coolant hose. It's a common choice with water cooled 914s to run Gates Green Stripe 1 1/4" coolant hose on the bottom side grooves in the floor pan. The best price is to buy 50 ft in bulk through Rockauto so I should have plenty left when it's all installed.

For the driver side I was worried the newly pointed thermostat neck wasn't quite at the right area or angle. It's hard to take a pic of the routing while simultaneously holding it in place but it's going to work great. I forgot to order the clamps I'll need to fasten them to the bottom of the pan but I may run to Lowe's tomorrow and grab some cheap ones to get me set up.

For the passenger side, everything lines up perfect with my planned splice hose. It also tucks neatly under the engine mount and plays nice sharing space with the shifter cables. Both will get a protective heat sleeve from DEI due to proximity of the exhaust.

 

Tomorrow I'd like to get started on fitting the in tank fuel pump and at a minimum a template for the clutch master cylinder.  Maybe finalize plans for shifter cable entry through the firewall. Trying to not rush that decision but I think what I have planned should work great.

 

 

Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy UltraDork
1/9/25 8:55 p.m.

Lookin good!!

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/9/25 9:14 p.m.

In reply to Lof8 - Andy :

Thanks! I'm hoping that I'll be able to cross the hoses over each other in the frunk to connect with the correct rad inlet/outlet. I decided to go with the Celica rad like yours so the connections are on the wrong side.

Lof8 - Andy
Lof8 - Andy UltraDork
1/10/25 7:14 a.m.

In reply to captainawesome :

The hoses wanted to kink when crossing in the frunk.  I had to use some 90s.  Not the most elegant thing, but functional.  

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/10/25 8:01 a.m.

In reply to Lof8 - Andy :

Good to know. I’ve got some spare rubber 90s but need to order some more couplers. 

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/10/25 4:21 p.m.

The fuel pump assembly is in place and ready to be wired up. I originally planned an external pump like the factory but saw that there were some Subaru swaps installing an Impreza metal pump assembly to the 914 tank. I felt like this was a more elegant solution and packaging wise would be perfect.

I found a used pump assembly with unknown new fuel pump installed for $39. It had a feed and return line but no vent. That's fine by me since the stock tank already has a vent setup anyway. It also had a very large in tank fuel filter assembly. I couldn't easily install the pump with this attached so I finally decided to ditch it.

First I pulled the rubber gasket off of the flange to use as a template. The tricky part of this install is the sump positioning. Luckily there are a handful of pics out there to guide me.

This ends up deleting the 914 fuel level sender. Some folks drill a new hole and move it elsewhere but I'm going to use the Subaru one to send a signal to my dash.

Here's a new hole.

At this point I tried installing the pump with the massive in tank filter but it wasn't fitting through easily nor dropping into the sump easily. I decided to remove it from the equation. I may trim the opening a bit more for this as I do see a major benefit to having a filter here. It's also super easy to access this pump assembly for maintenance compared to in the engine bay or elsewhere.

With that removed I started working on getting the pump right in the middle of the sump. When I first installed it, the sock was pressing against the rear of the sump lip. After a half dozen in and out test fits, I bent the bracket enough. You can see the bend I placed right where the wiring plugs into the pump.

After that I tied a string to the float to check range of motion. That too wasn't going to work so I slowly tweaked it until it had plenty of clearance to function as intended.

With the float sorted I marked new holes to drill for nutserts. I'm glad I didn't drill based on the rubber seal I initially traced as it would have been terrible for alignment and flatness. The first hole I drilled landed through what was left of the sender flange. It had a small seam weld holding on so I drilled the hole nearest to it first. Out it came with a little wiggling.

The surface isn't the flattest, so I spent some time with a hammer and dolly doing my best to level it all out. Then it was time for nutserts. This is my first time using the tool and it's a game changer. I'll need to order some more m6 already since the kit is pretty light on quantity for each size. I imagine that will be one of the most common sizes I'll use.

Now for test fitting.

LIKE A GLOVE!

I may consider getting a different sock but this one lands at the perfect depth based on my measurements. The return line dumps directly into the sump as well which should keep plenty of fuel exactly where it's needed.

The filler cap still fits.

I clearanced the lip of the tank a smidge for the supply line.

For now I looped the old supply and return line. I'm not sure if this is the permanent decision as it may not package well. I'd prefer to find a nut to cap both off but based on my searches have come up empty handed. Pretty sure it's a very fine thread m17 but it's been a few days since I last looked. I'm also now realizing that what I thought was a return line is in fact a vent line. I may use the stock return and cap off the vent on top. Hmmmmm.

All in all I'm stoked everything came together the way it did. The rubber flange seal looks to be flat all the way around when tightened down. Since the nutserts are above the edge of the tank I may cut a gasket out that fills up that space for a better seal.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/10/25 5:18 p.m.

 

Gasket cut and fits great. I think this will give me a better seal.

 

 

wvumtnbkr
wvumtnbkr UltimaDork
1/10/25 7:30 p.m.

This is awesome.

 

Carry on.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/10/25 8:41 p.m.

For anyone poking their head in here, what is this sensor thingy at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly? Two wires supplied to it, it's cylindrical, and I can't seem to find the right words to figure out what to search for to figure it out.

 

EDIT: Pretty sure it's a fuel temp sensor. See diagram below this pic.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
1/11/25 10:51 a.m.

I'd follow the wires.  The pinout is right there.

Note that Subaru used two sending units, as it's a saddle tank.  The sending units are wired in series to the fuel gauge.  This means that if you use a Subaru gauge it will read 1/2 to full.  Or empty to 1/2.  Depends on factors I can't find while waiting to see the eye doctor to have Kia Forte chunks extracted from my right eyeball.

 

 

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/11/25 11:09 a.m.

In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :

Good to know on the gauges. I am planning to get a Powertune digital dash when funds allow which uses the Haltech CAN signal. I can tell the Haltech what range the sender uses. The only thing I have to do is run a 240 ohm resistor so it can read the range easy enough.

Bummer about getting Kia in your eye. Hope it's an easy extraction.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
1/11/25 1:36 p.m.

I'm pretty sure that the combined resistance is 0-90 so each sender is 0-180.  Maybe.  Unless I have something twisted around and backwards.  'Course, this is super easy to check right now with a multimeter smiley

 

I don't recommend having your eyeballs dyed, scraped, and picked at if you can avoid it.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/13/25 7:26 p.m.

Parts have been delayed due to the weather. Roads are clear but things are a day or two behind. Today the new radiator arrived so I spent a few minutes bolting the new fan assembly to it. Unfortunately I'll need to do some cutting to get any mock up in the frunk started.

Saturday I had to leave town for family stuff and Sunday was spent cleaning all of my attic space or shoveling snow. I've gained a ton of space for spare parts and overall just a way less messy space.

MiniDave
MiniDave Dork
1/14/25 12:23 p.m.

Wow that is a slick radiator setup, who supplied that?

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/14/25 12:29 p.m.

In reply to MiniDave :

The radiator is an ebay item branded Spawon for a 2000-2005 Celica. So far it looks okay for $118. The fan assembly is a Dorman unit I got for a super good deal on RockAuto.

Mr_Asa
Mr_Asa MegaDork
1/14/25 1:30 p.m.
Lof8 - Andy said:

In general terms, what does an ecu do with the VSS signal?   What does it do beyond giving you a speed display on a dash?  I've chosen the route of a GPS speed signal, but thats not going to tell my ecu much when the car is on a dyno.  Sorry for the mild hijack.

For aftermarket, not sure.  For OEM, a lot.  Shift points are the big one.  Some tie it into the air/fuel/ignition systems.  Traction control is a possibility, as is ABS.  

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
1/14/25 2:13 p.m.

In reply to Mr_Asa :

Vehicle speed is very important for idle control strategies, as well as quite a few internal emissions tests.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/15/25 9:59 a.m.

I'm jumping around a little bit. A very important bundle of exhaust stuff showed up and until I start fitting these pieces I can't be sure how the rest of the system will go together. With an early day out from work I got started.

Here's the stock TSX flex/dump/front pipe. Sadly I misplaced the one that came with my previous K swap on the FRS so I've been on the hunt for one that doesn't cost $150-200. Finally one popped up on ebay for $89 which was still more than I think it's worth but it's such a great starting point for packaging. My local junkyard has been pulling them off to recover cats otherwise I would have had one months ago. Anyway, with a built in o2 sensor port, a flex pipe, and large diameter tubing it's perfect.

This mates directly to the stock exhaust manifold, but points the wrong direction. Some careful and slow work of the cut off wheel removed the flange.

A test fit to make sure it's pointed in the correct direction, then a couple tack welds to hold it in place. It fits soooooo good.

Typically the cat bolts to the three bolt flange but I have an axle that needs more room. So that got cut off as well.

Then the fun part starts. I found a 2.5" mandrel bend set for $60 shipped. I went back and forth so many times about a 3" system, but I just don't want a loud exhaust and it's easier to keep quiet with 2.5", not to mention packaging is easier.

Looks like a 45 degree up should get things pointed in the right direction.

Trimmed a little to get the bend closer to the axle.

The space between the 45s will be a high flow cat which is about 11" overall length. I'm going to point it away towards the corner of the bumper, then turn 90 into a LONG narrow muffler. From there I was hoping to be able to fit in a resonator but packaging is tough. Maybe a really short one? I'm hoping the cat will be enough to get rid of the rasp but there's a chance I can make a 90 towards the driver side axle at the end of the 31" long muffler. Then package a 14" or so resonator with a 180 ALL the way back to the bumper for a clean exit. I will probably need a super tight radius 180 which aren't that cheap but for sound quality it might be worth the trouble. If I have to skip the resonator I think it will be okay since the muffler I ordered is going to be fairly quiet and I really want a cat to get rid of the fuel stink. Since that's really the only place to  That's the one aspect of my FRS K swap that I wanted to address and I'll do it first thing on the 914.

I also considered a muffler that had the inlet and outlet on the same side packaged by the driver side axle but there's not much room to work with. I'm still sorta considering it, but don't really want to spend $60 to find out it won't fit.

The stock passage for the 914 muffler is narrow around 8" and I don't want a huge muffler hanging out in the open. I tried fitting the stock rear apron on and it doesn't look right on the GT style body work. Originally I thought I was going to use it, so that kinda put a damper on my plans. Then this long muffler intended for an E-250 Ford popped up on Amazon for $12.06, so I clicked the buy button. It may not be the permanent solution but it's probably a great NOW solution.

If I build what I really want it will be with this Magnaflow unit. The inlet is the top right, then it TEES internally to the two outlets on the bottom. It's supposed to be a fairly quiet muffler and based off of the measurements could fit where the stock 914 muffler would reside. I would probably need to tilt it a little at an angle but otherwise should fit. This still doesn't get any resonator added in to the system though.

 

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/15/25 11:42 a.m.

Tires arrived an hour ago, so I got them mounted and ready to go on the car. The tire shop got me in and out fast which was awesome.

As you can see these have checkered flags on them, so they are basically race tires.

I went with 205/50 and 225/50 since they were super cheap and about the diameter I wanted. I'm tired of spending big bucks on tires to mostly drive it on the street vs autocross or track so the $239 felt awesome to spend. These are 340tw and my hope is they are a poor mans ECS 02. I know that's a pipe dream, but for now they will do the trick.

fouckhest
fouckhest Reader
1/15/25 2:32 p.m.

It is possible to shorten up the straight coming out of the manifold, shorten up the section with the flex and route over the top of the axle?

I ask b/c from the photos, it seems your exhaust is going to be the lowes point on the car, which while its hard to avoid, but minimizing is always nice.

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/15/25 2:45 p.m.

In reply to fouckhest :

It's hard to tell from the photos, but the bottom of the exhaust is at best a 1/4" below my engine mount bar when tightened into place. The flange where the downpipe bolts on is only a couple inches above the axle line, so it would be a wild ride up and over if I tried to move it above.

I may trim the top of the pipe where I've tacked the flange to get it at least flush or slightly above though now that you mention it. I think there's a little room to move up before getting intimate with the axle. I should have the shortened axles here early next week to test fit and confirm before doing anything permanent though. They are quite a bit thicker than my "visual" axle.

fouckhest
fouckhest Reader
1/15/25 2:57 p.m.

Sounds good, I figured the photos were deceiving yes

captainawesome
captainawesome Dork
1/15/25 3:16 p.m.

In reply to fouckhest :

You mentioning it got me motivated to at least trim it a little, so I thank you for that.

Also I'm looking forward to future progress on your mk4 v8 project!

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