I have a needy 280z in my garage that I have avoided taking apart because "while I'm in there" will doom my project to being sold off to some body with more time, money and talent. So I end up chipping away at small things and buying parts. Lots and lots of parts. Soooo many parts. I figure that I'll bite the bullet and pay a pro to do the heavy lifting in a few years when I've won the Powerball.
In reply to jimbob_racing :
I'll take your parts if change your mind!
I have the time and (I think) the ability, just gotta make the rest happen.
My to do list is quite long
I read that to do list as an AC type challenge date.
What's the hive's opinion / experiences with standalone ECUs?
I keep reading threads here, there and everywhere but I find myself getting no closer to a decision.
For reference, my engine build will be: L28 block, using a crank trigger wheel. LS style coils, upgraded fuel injectors and rail, G25 or G30 turbo.
My aim is full sequential fueling and ignition. I intend to slap together a basic turbo build to get it running and sorted and install the "good" engine once I get a strong baseline established.
I have a fair amount of tuning experience with Subarus and a handful of Toyotas, but have never built a full map.
I'm intrigued by the "science project" aspect of MS, but hear nothing but good things about Haltech gear.
I will be adding a modern fuse block and will likely need a PDM of some sort.
I want to build this car exactly one time, so I my aim is to do it right.
In reply to birdmayne :
My experience with MS has been that as long as you don't mind DIY, you'll be fine. Since you're starting with a crank trigger wheel already, you'll be prepared already for the most irritating part of the MS: the VR conditioners. A hall sensor makes that moot.
An MS3X is also something like ~60% the cost of the equivalent Haltech.
However, there is something to be said for the ease of use and professionalism of the Haltech. They don't have printer cables at the ECU which means they can be waterproof. Also firmware updates are still coming on Haltech, whereas MS firmware updates have slowed down to a crawl. They don't require you to adjust potentiometers. Basically, they just work.
I think either is a fine choice, depending on your needs.
chandler said:
I read that to do list as an AC type challenge date.
I hate you. For posting my joke before I did.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
chandler said:
I read that to do list as an AC type challenge date.
I hate you. For posting my joke before I did.
By the time you'd post the joke it'd be 3 years later. Haha.
Just poking fun, you have me beat on motivation and time.
preach (dudeist priest) said:
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
chandler said:
I read that to do list as an AC type challenge date.
I hate you. For posting my joke before I did.
By the time you'd post the joke it'd be 3 years later. Haha.
buncha savages in this town!
The 240z has been my dream but the price is outrunning my income so I've lost interest.
Not sure what to do with all this Datsun information I've stored into my brain the past 42 years.............
In reply to Datsun310Guy :
Pass it on to me!
I agree that these are getting rather cost prohibitive, which furthers my need to build this one right.
Datsun310Guy said:
The 240z has been my dream but the price is outrunning my income so I've lost interest.
Not sure what to do with all this Datsun information I've stored into my brain the past 42 years.............
Hey Datsun310guy. Did you check this one out? https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/cars-sale/datsun-240z-1970-for-sale-nmna/229439/page1/
In reply to birdmayne :
Im working on rebuilding my L28 in my 280Z and Im going to be running a RusEFI Proteus with LS injectors, coils, sensors etc. Proteus is akin to an MS3X but open source and much newer hardware. Plus the board is designed by a fellow GRMer so thats a plus.
I'll update my build thread eventually lol but let me know if you have questions!
Cool project! Had to sell my 280Z w/ L29 many years ago due to structural rust.
KISS, Don't get hung up on full sequential EFI. At WOT, injectors should be at 90% duty cycle, so they are all open all the time. No real difference between batchfire & sequential then.
I have the same goals for my 2JZ hot rod, except for full sequential, and I'm planning on a Microsquirt to handle it. I haven't actually done it yet but it seems like a solid reliable option for the money.
Z car has been neglected for a while. I feel bad but will resume as time allows.
My current projects have been Tow Pig and FIL's '71 C10 ('Ol Blue). Tow Pig needed new rear brakes and rust remediation, as well as a new tail gate.
C10 was sitting for 15 years before we drug it home. We've managed to get it running, new wheels and tires, steering wheel, and seat cover. Still needs a better tune up of carb and ignition. Also have new grill and surround to install. Black bedliner to happen soon.
We put a set of MaxJax in his shop and they are now on my short list. Such a cool system.
Who doesn't love a good plot twist?
Plan is 6 coil on plugs and batch fueling.
Really looking forward to this, will be a big project for me.
You say that like it wasn't already a big project.
Modern fuel injection will be sweet. Drivability makes a huge difference in how much you can enjoy a car.
In reply to iansane :
I should rephrase. It's a big personal project / goal. I've never done a standalone ECU, so this is a whole separate project in itself.
Everytime I touch this car, it gets lighter...
Looks like I have some patch work to do on the inner rocker also.
Full length frame rails have been ordered, so I'll get the opportunity to do a bunch of overhead welding... Not looking forward to that.
Then I want to push it outside to pressure wash the engine compartment before winter. Hoping to get frame rails in, both rockers patched, floor patched, engine compartment cleaned up and painted and interior sprayed with insulation before Spring.
Should be attainable, if I keep doing little bits at a time.
I also found a third L28ET that I intend to pick up soon. Because overkill is my forte.
Picking this up tomorrow.
Pretty stoked to give it a shot.
Should make welding on the full length frame rail caps much easier. I'm not worried about keeping the chassis loaded, since I'm not removing the factory rails, just capping them.
Wait, am I following you on TikTok?
check out his ceiling
In reply to Datsun310Guy :
Tik Tok? Negative.
IG? Possibly.
240z_venture is the IG handle for car stuffs
I do like that guy's ceiling though.
Welp.
Rolled the Z this weekend.
It was awesome
Suspension came off pretty easily and then it was time to lift and roll. Hung a block and tackle from the roof to use as a brake, so it wouldn't crash down.
Went smoother than I had hoped. The car is a feather like this, so I was able to push it over myself, with a friend on the rope for safety.
There is plenty of work to do now, with a frame rail to be patched, full length frame rails to weld on over factory rails, undercoat to remove.
Debating on reapplication of undercoat or Raptor Liner. Or a possible third option that I haven't considered yet?