The new throttle tube for the Husky arrived today. To my surprise, it included a new grip as well! I installed it so that I could temporarily pull the rubber grip off from the plastic tube in order to transfer the heat element for the heated grips over.
I'm hopeful that the element can be reused. I cleaned them up and sprayed a bit of contact cement on both halves. Temporary zip ties should help keep it in place while the glue cures.
Minimal photos, but I made a little progress on the Husky today.
I opened out the end of the throttle tube, and cut the end off the left grip for my planned future bar slider install. The sliders are designed for a countersunk M8 flat head fastener, and I intend to turn some spacers to mount them using the M6 cap head bolts in my Fasst Co weighted anti-vibration bar inserts.
To the same end, I built up the small ground-down edge spot on the right-side weighted bar insert end cap so that it can support the slider squarely.
I attempted to install the throttle grip, and wasn't thinking things through really well. I used rubbing alcohol as a lubricant, thinking it would evaporate and not leave the grip loose on the throttle tube. It helped with grip install, but it also went to work on the contact cement, and loosened up the heating element before the grip was fully on. With compromised grip strength and mobility, I couldn't salvage things, but it was probably for the best.
It is cool in the shop this time of year, so unlike the first time which was undoubtedly cold for optimal curing, the second time around, I warmed up the contact cement in a bucket of warm water for a while, and warmed the throttle tube a heat element with the heat gun on low. I used double the zip ties of last time to hold the element to the tube for curing. I'll let it sit overnight with the ties on.
Unlike last time where I cut off all the zip ties first, next time I'll start with the two most outboard, and work my way inward, cutting them off one or two at a time as I install the grip. I'll also likely use compressed air to assist with the installation.
My replacement windscreen and mounting hardware arrived, but I didn't install yet.
In other news, I'm moving out of the shop soon (long story...) so I hope to do some work on the little Gixxer 250 four cylinder soon. Even if I don't get it running, getting it rolling on tires that hold air, leak-free, and with functional brakes will make it easier to move! I have tires, caliper and master cylinder rebuild kits, and fork seals. I ran out of time today, but maybe I'll start on it tomorrow.
All the zip ties! The bond seems pretty solid, so I warmed up the grip, got the compressed air ready, and started on sliding it on.
That worked nicely! Here's the install mostly done. The open grip is for the bar end slider install still to come.
I decided that rather than turn a spacer for the bar end sliders I already have, I'll just turn some new sliders to fit the the hardware on my bar weights...I'll order some UMHW or Delrin bar stock for the project.
I pulled the fairing off to replace the broken windshield adjustment thumb screw, and replace the scuffed windshield while I'm in there.
New screen on the left. It is a tiny bit taller, plus a little wider at the bottom and little narrower at the top. I'll be curious to see if the new shape makes any discernible difference in protection or buffeting.
Installed!
Idk how I missed this, but working on reading through.
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
Cool; glad to know that people are enjoying following along!
Reading about your recent score on the SV project reminded me that currently I don't have a V-twin in the fleet, which is a shame! Hmmm...don't need another bike, but this is the time of year to poke around for deals! 
I ticked the last few small tasks off the to-do list for the Husky early this morning.
Tire pressure OK, battery level OK, and I confirmed that the brake light was stuck on.
When I replaced the front brake lever, I guess I lost the infamous 'nub' that actuates the brake light switch. This tiny part is not available separately! 
I located a hard plastic rod of about the appropriate diameter, cut off a bit, sanded it to length, and did a test fit. It worked perfectly, so now I have brake lights again!
Rain was incoming, so I rolled the bike out, suited up, and took my first ride today! It was slow and cautious, but the bike rode straight and I have regained enough strength and mobility to do it! It felt great! 
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
Oh, I need zero kinds of any projects but the next month is the time to score a dumb good deal.
Also glad your first ride back went well.
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
Previous owner had replaced the levers on my bike, lost the nub, then never told me about it. Friend of a friend 3D printed a bunch for me, I've got extras if you need one.
In reply to docwyte :
I appreciate the offer! The one I have is working for now, but I'd be happy to pay shipping for one that is more optimal in terms of dimensions. I'll send a PM.
Very minor update. I really dislike stereotypical motocross-style graphics. They are usually both unnecessarily busy, and ignorant of the overall design of the bike. I feel like they always look like someone barfed a bunch of slashes, splashes, swoops, zigzags, and company logos semi-randomly onto a bike...and all too often they contain too many colors. Of course, my middle-age may be showing through, and YMMV. 
I love my Fasst Flexx handlebar, but even the "black" option for a bar pad cover turned out to be high-contrast black/white, with three different Fasst Co logos with graphics and double pinstripes. 
The minor update is that part of an old ratty pair of blue jeans is now my bar pad cover, and I'm very pleased with the result!
You bumped this thread and now I don't remember if I sent you some of those spacers. Did I? If not, ping me again and I'll get them out to you
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
I agree on the some bikes are to busy with mx style graphics, and hell I even own one of them. I usually tend to be in the OEM+ category graphic wise. I do love the jean bar pad.
In reply to Professor_Brap (Forum Supporter) :
Thanks! The graphics on your DRZ are busy, but they are personalized and have a theme. The stuff that really drives me nuts is like this, not at all personal, just picked out of a catalog, with random brand logos, each with totally different fonts, and sometimes different colors, plus a bunch of extra busy details like stripes, and paint splatters, and spirals, and faux graffiti, and geometric shapes, and arrows, and curves, and no overall design other than a bunch of graphics and bits of color shot out of a cannon:
For contrast, here's something personalized I don't mind. Maybe not exactly what I would put on my bike, but it has an overall theme, simple colors, and to me, it looks like a motorcycle:
Minor life update: I've decided to move out of the shared shop space I've enjoyed as a workspace and off-site vehicle storage for the past twelve years. It's been a ton of fun, and a good community, and when I moved in, it presented me with a way to sell my house/garage, and stay involved in the hobby.
Since being hit by the red-light-runner, I've had time and cause to think/re-evaluate, and came out of the reflection feeling the need to transition to a living/workspace situation that is better for my current needs and wants. The main thing I want is to get completely away from renting work and/or storage space, and have my vehicles and tools where I live, but without having to move out to the sticks, and without needing to take on yard care or exterior building maintenance tasks...I'd be totally happy to never mow another lawn, clean another gutter, or fix another roof. I haven't done any of this stuff since 2012, and I love the extra free time, and don't miss the house/yard chores.
As one might imagine, sorting, packing, and moving over a decade's worth of accumulated vehicles, tools, parts, and stuff isn't easy. I've been chipping away at reassessing and downsizing for several months. My goal is to sell my current place and buy a townhome/row-house-style condo, still in the central city, with my own walk-up entry, 2+ car garage on the ground floor, 2-bedroom living space above, and an HOA that doesn't exclude minor work in the garage. Should make a pretty sweet middle-aged GRM bachelor pad, and I've always got the shop at my work as an option if I need tons of space, or the ability to do noisy tasks. I've got my eye on some places (none yet for sale.) Since my list of criteria is pretty specific and there isn't a ton of inventory out there matching it, I'll have be diligent and patient, but I'm on my way to being prepared to strike when the real estate opportunity arises.
Back to the bikes; the effort to downsize puts everything under scrutiny, and if I could let one go, it would simply things, but isn't essential. The Husaberg is one of the obvious candidates, since I have two supermotos, and the 701 is arguably the more versatile all-around supermoto. For a while late last year, I thought I might have it sold, but the deal fell through. Now isn't a great time to sell, but if I'm going to sell in the spring, now is the time to plan/prep.
The runners:
Husky 701 Enduro/Supermoto. This is the best bike I've ever owned, and is beyond reproach. Great lightweight all-around bike. I'd instantly chose it if I had to pick only one to keep. Moderately difficult to replace. A 701/690 shouldn't be too hard to find, but it has a entimental value as it used to belong to my best friend.
Honda VFR800. Great sport tourer, and as a high-mileage (85,000ish) runner which I bought under-market, perhaps worth more to me than to someone else. Great midweight all-around bike and highway champ. Sounds awesome, and considerably different from the Husky (much better on the open road, not as suited to the tight 'n twisties) but I don't do a lot of long trips or two-up riding, so... Fairly easy to replace if I sold it and missed it.
JDM Suzuki Goose 350. Quintessential cafe racer. A unique and beautiful toy. Very tough to replace if I sold it and missed it. Flyweight, small, and a bit cramped. No wind protection, heated grips, ABS, or passenger-carrying capability. Dives into corners without a second thought, and great fun to wring it out without going too fast. Not great for rearward visibility. Could still use a little carb tuning, and repair to the better-condition of the two gas tanks I have for it. The perfect ride on this bike is 20-30 minutes to a bike meet, coffee shop, or cars and coffee on a low-traffic, nice-weather day. Really fun for a short ride in the twisties. Not great for much else, but one of prettiest bikes I've ever seen, and hard to imagine parting with. I also have 90% of the parts to convert to EFI if I get bored at some point.
The projects:
JDM GSXR250 four cylinder. Super-low miles time-capsule, but has been sitting a long time, so it needs some going through. I have most of the parts needed to sort it out. I love the aesthetics and the era, but haven't ridden it to evaluate in the real world. 18,000rpm! A little less cramped than the Goose. I always envisioned getting it running, riding it some, seeing how it compares/contrasts with the Goose, and the re-evaluating, but then again, I haven't actually done it yet, so... If I pass on it, my dad is very excited to have first right of refusal. Tough to replace. Tough to sell as a non-runner needing some paperwork. If I put the effort into getting it running and registered, not sure I'd sell right away.
Husaberg FS570. Currently runs, but is partially disassembled to fix lots of little issues. Supposedly low hours/miles, but needs lots of little stuff to be cherry. I have most of the parts needed, just a question of time. Could be slapped back together without much work to sell if I didn't give a E36 M3, but I do, so my fault for looking under the hood! Should be good for the long haul once I'm done, though. Addictive fun as it is a fire-breathing race bike for the street, and potentially one of the easier-feeding examples of the breed. Feels very special and lightweight compared to the Husky, but also doesn't compare to the Husky for ease of everyday use. Not easy to replace. A real mixed bag for parts availability, with many but not all mechanical parts still available, but cosmetic stuff drying up quickly. The best-handling bike I've ever ridden; the chassis is amazing. The engine/transmission are great for a sporty ride as well. Ergonomics aren't perfect, but I'm trying to improve them. Not great for long rides, but if I could source a discontinued 70 Degree Racing subframe fuel tank...I'm two years into trying and all I have to show for it is several dozen "helpful" suggestions that I just post a WTB ad, and several dozen WTB threads I've posted all over the internet. Each WTB ad has zero useful leads or potential sellers, but most of them also have lots of hop-on posts from others also wanting to buy. Anyone with experience with molding short runs of complex-shape plastic fuel tanks, feel free to get in touch! We might even sell double digits, if not dozens! Some overlap for use case with the 701, but they are also distinct in feel and character.
Should I sell one? If so, which one, and why?
I think you're going to have to assess your space and then make a decision. Around here the townhomes have a "regular" 2 car garage, which isn't really all that big once you put in tool boxes, work bench, etc. Complicating matters is if there isn't a spot to park your car outside the garage...
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
There is a particular set of woody woodpecker graphics around the mid west that made me wanna punt a child that absolutely everyone has. I personally think part of graphics is the personalized aspect of them and most people it seems like want cookie cutter.
I think personally your best bet is to get everything running well and see where your overlap is and go through the list again. Vfr seems like a easy first sale in all reality and makes the most sense to sell first.
In reply to docwyte :
Agreed...although there is a little bit of a chicken and egg aspect to it as well. If I just buy the first townhouse with a two car garage that comes along, stuff won't fit without further downsizing and/or getting really creative with packaging (four post lift if I have some height?) If I know I need an oversized 2-car garage, I can set that as a parameter for my search and see how I can make it happen by tweaking other criteria, being more patient, etc. which is likely the way I'm leaning.
I have started collecting data points for garage size. My old house from the 2000's had a slightly oversize one car garage that was about 12x27 or 12x26, otherwise 310-325 square feet. It held everything I have now including tools, storage, one car (AE86, essentially the size of a slightly skinny FR-S) with a little bit of room to work, and extra bicycles, but no motorcycles or Cappuccino. I did make maximum use of the space above the rafters, and at times I used the garden shed or unfinished basement for overflow.
In the new place, I envision bicycles, plus some storage totes being a flexible piece that could potentially go indoors in a mud room or spare room if needed to allow vehicles and tools to live in the garage.
The storage unit I got recently to start moving out of the shop is 10x20 (200 square feet) and I planned for it to hold everything at the shop (tools, shelves, workbench, storage crates, wheels/tires, lathe, milling machine) plus a motorcycle or two, but no cars. It will be full but with a walkway to access stuff. The FR-S is roughly 14x6, and the Cappuccino is roughly 11x4.6, or about 139 square feet. 200+139=339 square feet would theoretically fit stuff without much more than an inch to spare, room to work, or open car doors, so in reality I need more square footage, and/or more room to go vertical.
My sister's townhome with traditional two car garage is about 19x18, or 342 square feet. Looking around inside confirmed my suspicion that everything I have might fit with creative packing, but it would be really tight, with no room to work, park right next to the wall, suck in your gut and shimmy sideways through the car door, and would probably require pulling a vehicle out to access anything. Not worth the hassle of a sale/purchase/move if I'm only getting this kind of space.
The places I've seen with tandem garages seem like they can be bigger because some are 1.5-cars wide, and deep. Part of what got me started on this was a unit that was listed a while ago as having a two-car tandem garage 15 x 38, with a chunk taken out of the back corners for a hallway or closet, and hot water heater, but even so it seemed to be a decent size for me. If I can find something like this it would be great.
Every time I get envious of someone with a 25x40 or 40x40 shop on acreage, I just go look at some of the guys in England, building awesome cars in garages barely bigger than the car, (like Matt Green taking the fender flares of his MG Metro to fit it in/out the garage door!) and I feel pretty good about having a slightly oversized garage.
Yeah, it's definitely a thing to always want more space. I've got a 3 car garage with a 4 post lift, it's wide, but not deep. I've basically got it full, I mean, I could have 1 more car if 1 lived on the lift 100% of the time, but that's it. I don't have room for more tools, work benches, tool boxes, etc. I'd really like to have a few more feet in depth to play with.
Ideally I'd like to have an attached oversized 2-3 car garage and then a detached shop...
I haven't posted an update in a while, but I've been chipping away at the Husaberg. It feels like each time I dive in and fix something, I find two more issues to deal with.
The Cyclops LED upgrade bulb I bought is known for not quite fitting the stock housing, and I found the fitment issue to be true...the surround is slightly too big, and can't be forced into place. Thankfully I have a lathe! The zip tie is holding the connector to the chuck. I turned the speed down and started turning.
I trimmed a little bit off the O.D. of the shoulder of the LED bulb, and confirmed it now fits the new headlight housing. The connector I'm holding is the one the previous owner removed and hardwired in. Thankfully, I had a matching connector and pins in my electrical terminals storage, so I can fix that part of the butchered harness.
Here's the wiring to the tiny rear turn signals on the underside of the subframe. I don't think this is factory. As someone who was hit recently by an inattentive motorist, I'm looking to increase lighting, and convert my turn signals to running lights. Given the difficulties I've faced since the accident, the concern of "stock turn signals are HUGE and look so DORKY" seems petty, vain, and stupid. I want to undo this sooner rather than later.
Upon further teardown, I found more inappropriate fasteners. Left is stock...right is what was substituted and run directly into the plastic of my subframe. Not only does it have the wrong size/style head, but now the hole is too big and too deep to go backwards and have a secure stock fastener.
I continued with disassembly, pursuing several goals: replacing or repairing the rear subframe that is hacked apart, tracking down and installing the stock chain protection stuff that was stripped off some reason, fixing wiring issues I've spotted along the way, redoing the bodywork aesthetics to my own preferences, and restoring stock hardware. I like stock hardware in general, but especially on my bikes. Knowing that my light compact factory toolkit will work for most roadside repairs is huge for piece of mind. Stuck on the side of the road isn't the time to find out that a previous owner replaced a 12mm hex head with a 13mm hex head, and I don't have a way to fix the issue, and I don't want to have to carry around an extra toolbox just in case.
More strange modifications. The bike has a charcoal canister, with a fairly simple system. The fuel tank vents directly to the canister. There is an electronically controlled switching valve that opens a line from the canister into the crankcase...and that's it. Someone prior to me removed both lines, vented the gas tank into the frame, capped the crankcase vent, and disconnected the wiring, but left the wiring connector rattling around, and left the canister in the bike. I can't conceive of a benefit from these modifications, but perhaps I'm ignorant of something???
There's a number of wiring issues, mostly at the front of the bike, behind the headlight.
This is the bike side of the ignition map switch connector. Cracked insulation, worn insulation, broken strands of wire, and the wrong combination of terminals/seals/connector body, so that it isn't properly sealed.
Not the best photo, but the loom insulation around the steering head is split, and some of the individual wiring insulation is also damaged in a way that looks suspiciously like it was accidentally sliced with a sharp knife.
Wires feeding into a relay are damaged. Cracked insulation on both wires, poor electrical tape repair on one of those wires, and smashed/cracked plastic connector.
Strange aftermarket start switch wiring coming down to the white connector on the left side, with obviously modified/shrink-wrapped wiring on the start circuit part (black wires) and the former kill switch circuit jumpered (red wires with white tracer.)
In addition, the headlight connector was completely removed, and replaced with cheesy insulated butt connectors. You can just see the red butt connectors in the lower right of the photo above.
The ignition map switch has cracked loom insulation with adhesive heat shrink over top of part of the damage, but not all. Upon removing it, I found two loose wires inside...
Probably worst of all, the entire harness here had no constraints or routing support, just one lone zip tie (obviously not factory) looped in a big lazy 6-7 inch diameter loop very loosely around all the individual strands of the harness and the upper triple clamp...not really constraining anything.
I set the wiring issues aside for a moment and tackled a few other details. The first was the Trail Tech X Bar. The bend wasn't great for me, but more importantly, it has a stepped internal diameter, making it impossible to thread the inside of the bar for a handguard anchor. It was also a little low for my height.
I installed a pewter Neken bar that came off the 701. The rise was the same as the Trail Tech, but the sweep was better, and to make it work for my height, I did it along with Enduro Engineering bar risers. I loctited and torqued the fasteners. The position feels great upon initial assessment, and as a happy accident, I like the looks of the bead-blasted grey better than the gloss black. Added bonus, the new bar is lighter than the old thick-wall X bar.
I pulled the poorly-fitting and heavy Trail Tech radiator guards off the bike. It took an extra-long T-handle Allen wrench I had to go buy. I discovered that one of the factory rivnuts for attaching the rest of the bodywork was beyond stripped, with nothing recognizable as thread internally...that explains a lot of my earlier struggles with the radiator shrouds!
The rivnut got replaced, and the original lightweight factory parts were installed. Looking better already, and now, amazement of amazements, one can turn the handlebar without the front fender hanging up on the radiator guards...huzzah! I ordered a couple fasteners to make everything perfect with the new setup. The left radiator is slightly bent, presumably from a previous crash, but it is minor enough I don't think it is an issue.
I also prefer factory hardware. To the point where if there's an aftermarket accessory on the moto, (My rottweiler intake for example) I'll replace the bolts that come with it with factory ones instead
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