TurnerX19 said:My over riding memory of it was that the steering was too slow!
I've heard other people say that too about the M-series. What are your thoughts on a quick-ratio TR6 or Spitfire rack. Neither are quite the same width as the original 2000 steering rack, so modifications would be needed.
I worry a bit that the quick rack would be super heavy. And then I start daydreaming about adding in an electric power assist.
Couple thoughts on that Scott. I've driven some cars with really heavy quick ratio steering on race courses. For what they lack in parking lot manners they make up for in feedback mid turn. I like it. In terms of power assist, hydraulic power assist has the added benefit of allowing you to greatly downsize the brake booster while giving you all the power brake assist you want. I'm also looking at how a Miata steering rack might work. I haven't gotten very far in this research but it could be promising.
I'll be interested to see what you come up with on the Miata rack.
No sure I followed you on how power steering gives you more brake assist. Can you elaborate?
In reply to TVR Scott :
I have driven earlier heavy (MG) engined TVRs with quicker racks, and none of them were heavy enough to need power assist. Also the Vixen 2500 I drove had a quicker rack than the M. Large diameter steering wheel beats power assist in most cases too. You should try it.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
Thank you, sir. Good info.
I was referring to a hydro boost brake booster. They are popular with off road setups. With the limited space for a brake booster on the tvr I am looking in to how that kind of system might work for a car like this. It has the advantage of being more compact. It's not super cheap but not prohibitive either.
CoolHandMoss said:Cleaning all the glued on padding off the interior is not actually as difficult as I expected.
Missed this post earlier. This is one of the areas I'm deciding how best to tackle still. How's the wire wheel working for you? Easy but slow or is it not too tedious? Hope you're wearing a respirator!
The wire wheel worked really well. I ended up switching to a plastic based version though. The wire wasn't doing much to the fiberglass but I decided to be a little more gentle on it and the plastic-ish version of the wire wheel worked just as well to remove the foam and glue without any scuffing of the glass. I didn't even look at what the product was actually called but it's a wire wheel with no metal.
The vinyl glued to the window opening recesses was a different story. That took half a day of careful and tedious work and it still needs a little more attention.
Congratulations on the TVR!
Check out Arnfried Weiss’ Rover V8 powered M. With its Webers and SE body kit it’s very down to business. The other details and color and material choices show off his great taste. (His other TVR is tasty too!)
http://tvrpre80s.de/keiler-und-rochen/
B
Great looking car. I do admire the widebody tvrs but I don't think I could bring myself to do that to mine.
So this person swapped the front AND rear hubs to 5 lugs?? The front is easy to change the upright on. The rears, I can't figure out how to change the lug pattern without changing the uprights. I'm looking in to custom made half shafts but I'm not sure if something that specific would be possible. Good-parts says he 'can' do it but there are downsides to drilling his hubs for the lug pattern I want.
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
It’s mine.
Rear axles are custom from The Driveshaft Shop. To match up to 4 lug hubs from a 240SX. Its outer CVs fit the rear upright nicely. I didn’t have more money to spend on more new wheels. The front was only a stub axle change and the hub and front brakes are from an ‘87 RX7 turbo. Differential is Supra.
What bolt pattern are you looking for?
I'm thinking 4x100 for good wheel selection. I was planning on Miata uprights. The 240sx hubs would probably work well for that no?
What engine do you have in that?
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
No idea about how to adapt any Miata parts. I’d keep the factory TVR uprights. If anything, weld up new ones from sheet and tube steel.
My engine is a 331ci Ford small block, built for around 525hp.
B
Excellent. That's exactly my plan except I'm shooting for lower numbers. I won't run the width of rubber that you are. I'd be really interested to hear details of how you got it to fit. What headers did you go with and what if any frame rails had to be modified. I haven't started fitting mine yet so I'm not quite sure what I'm in for.
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
Frame mods depend on engine height, and ideal height depends on port location at the heads. I used AFR 185 heads, which have raised ports, compared to factory. I only had to modify the front crossmember and the tube by the starter.
I was thinking afr heads as well. Thanks for the input.
What about headers? Block huggers?
CoolHandMoss said:I was thinking afr heads as well. Thanks for the input.
What about headers? Block huggers?
Custom. Block huggers are unequal length, and not optimized for my engine. Also, the SBF rectangular port is a mismatch against the AFR D port. I scanned a rubbing, imported it into AutoCAD, designed an exhaust flange, had a pair cut, and sent them to my exhaust fabrication shop.
Very nicely done. I'm not shooting for so much output so maybe I'll see how some block huggers will work.
In reply to CoolHandMoss :
I highly recommend that you get the block, heads, exhausts, transmission, and starter, and determine what the installed height needs to be.
Another reason for my exhaust routing is because I plan to manage the underbody aero.
Yeah that's the plan. I appreciate the insight. I am all ears if you have any other advice specific to the 302 project.
I've been following your conversation about V8 swap and the issues involved. I put a 302 Saleen motor and trans in my 2500M about twenty years ago (following what I had seen at the "Out of the Woodwork events). The only real roadblock was fitting the headers. I didn't want them to route up and around the front. There was nothing available that would hug the block close enough to clear the frame. I ended up fabricating them with a mix of the original factory headers and a hugger kit. I have pictures of some of the build as well as the current upgrade of 4" side pipes.
Oh excellent. Glad to hear from a couple people that have done it. It's not as well documented on line as most other engine swaps I've looked in to. If you have pictures of that setup i'd love to see pictures of it.
Atobwill at Gmail dot com if you feel like sharing any.
Any updates?
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