Still waiting on the motor but, the last week was busy. Major frame repair to the right side rear. The usual battery area was very bad and what was left of the frame (not much) was cracking. ut out and replaced and then added a couple more tubes from the kick up at the rear strut top through the firewall and intersected with the door bars to triangulate and strengthen the rear half of the car.
The next item after the engine returns will be the new exhaust, then nreak in asap for the next race.
It's finally back from the dead. 5 months waiting on the engine back from Dirty Racing in Florida. The engine is loud and snappy. Break in test and tune is planned for next weekend at Hollytree in Alabama. Exhaust was changed significantly and yes, it's loud. With no cross over it sounds like a big VW at idle and then on throttle it quickly becomes a beast. Can't wait to break it in and do some real laps again.
A better look at that exhaust. Going for the old Can-am look. Sounds mean.
RallyCaddy said:A better look at that exhaust. Going for the old Can-am look. Sounds mean.
Nice!
The Gulf decal on the air scoop is also perfect.
Whoa... how did I not know of this build?!?
In reply to RandolphCarter :
Well thanks but if you notice, the Gulf decal is not actually mirrored. The letters were reversed to spell fluG. An easter egg hidden in plain sight. Flug is German for "to fly". Hope you lke it.
Finally a bit of actual track testing again. Saturday was supposed to be rain but instead it was sunny all day. I got some laps in. After getting all warmed up and actually pushing it a bit, I had issues with it cutting out. 2 problems. The fuel cell and fuel pump are now getting heat from the radiator fans. Forgot about how much that is. 2nd, it's overcharging. 16V so that could be overheating some ECU components. Relays seem to click on and off random after shut down. So, I moved the fuel cell, pump and lines back between the front bulkheads and insulated it from the heat of the new radiator tubes. Then I disconnected the alternator and went back out today. Only 5 laps and the rain dumped hard. So no issues today but more testing required.
At least the oil system is working well. 100+PSI cold start. 80 PSI hot and above 4K RPM and 20-25 PSI at idle hot.
Now, proof it got out.
What a fulfilling thread to read, man. Thanks for this; it looks great, too, and I'm really happy for you to be able to do this! And after the whole 7 page read, that is an excellent picture to bring it to a conclusion (for now)
OK, it's back for another round. 4th motor. This one is bone stock. I only added ny larger Killer B oil pan and pickup. There will be more updates as I modify the air intake and seal it off at the bottom of the scoop to prevent another dirt ingestion problem. Runs good, solid oil pressure, sounds serious. The first race of 2022 is March 20. Hang on...
Hey, just the person I wanted to ask about running a Subaru engine with the radiator at the wrong end.
How hot does it get in the cabin with the tubes routed through?
I need to go the other way, WRX engine in the front and radiator in the back.
Those axles are wild! I dig it!
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
So I insulated the tubes through the cabin and that does a lot. I had to add air bleeder ports in several places and it's a bit of hassel getting all the air out. I had the radiator in the back (see previous posts) but the mud and dirt issues back there is why I moved it up front. Now to be fair, I have not run it in mid summer as that is when it died last, so real hot days may add to discomfort. That's what the fan inside id for.
So initial install of the air tray to seal off the scoop base from dirt below. Thats a full sheet baking tray. Nice fit.
Add some foam.
And from inside, it looks like it will work. I'm waiting for the new air cleaner parts to finish it off.
OK. Big news!! Porscharu won the 2022 SCCA Rallycross national championship Modified rear class this weekend. Finally got the bugs out and it rocks. I think dry sump is coming this winter to gain ground clearance. A lot of skid plate dragging out west. Also thanks to Persad Subaru parts for the sponsorship and a new engine this year.
All the kick ass!
Kinda wish I could have been there but I looked at my wallet and he said no. Too much other stuff going on
I hope pictures get posted up soon! (Or at all...)
Coming this winter, Porscharu WILL be getting a dry sump system. I really need the ground clearance. I'll document that as it happens.
As promised. A box of eagerly anticipated "happy parts" arrived today for Porscharu. Begin updates install. The weekend is going to get busy. After everything is in place then I will measure for hoses.
Eagerly watching. I am really curious about the boss toward the front of the pan.
OK so some progress today. Not as much as I planned but tolerable. The KillerB oversize cast oil pan did it's job well but ground clearance is only about 3 inches at best and off road that's pretty bad for the center of the car. The 1/4" skid plate also did it's job and was beat without mercy and it shows. The oil temp sender and wire were fully involved in some carnage.
The exhaust pipes didn't fare well either. Some work will be needed there.
The Killer B pan incase you didn't know is fully baffled. A nice piece. I may sell it to a worthy person.
So the pan came off and inside all is well.
Next the Mod's.
The new system has a 3 stage pump. 2for scavanging and 1 for return supply to the engine. The old pan had, as normal an internal pickup that bolted to a machined surface on the block. This then is passed to the factory oil pump. The new pan had an o-ring and machined pass thru to the outside of the pan where an AN hose will connect from the new pump. Now if I just connect the new pump to this, I will be pressure feeding the old pump which I would expect has a smaller volume capacity. I would then be running 2 pumps in series and using HP for both. This doesn't seen like a good plan. I decided to remove the old pump and take out the rotor BUT then looking at it, if I just remove the inner impeller, all the volume and pressure of the supply pump will be in the crank seal at the front. I think it would fail. SO, instead I removed the outer ring and kept the inner impeller to allow the oil to pass thru unimpeded but also protect the crank seal from the pressure.
This picture is with the back plate off of the pump. It was re-installed. One item to note is that the oil supply will pass from here thru the old oil filter. The kit supplied a remote filter which I may or may not use. I can always add it later but I don't see the need for a stock motor to require all that.
So here is the pan installed again. Note the black cap towards the front of the pan. It's removed now for the return oil filling. 2 allen head screws have since been installed in those holes to secure it and the internal oring to the factory oil pick up locationon the block.
The ATI damper and lower oil pump timing pulley are installed. And the bracket for the pump is in. The pump is only loose mounted right now and the belt is a bit too short (expected issues).
I went with the A.R.E. system because the others mounted the pump on the bottom of the pan and the whole reason for this was to get ground clearance. It's also a muddy dirty kind of racing and that's not going to go well on the timing belt or actually anything down there. A.R.E. mounted the pump on top in an area that was completely open on my motor. That's a natural choice.
Tomorrow it's fab a mount for the tank and the breather and start making a list of hoses and fittings. Another Summit order is rapidly growing and so my wallet is shrinking again.
I am a little surprised that it doesn't just blank the pump inlet off and go into one of the handy threaded bosses right there on the bottom of the pump. I'm sure they had a good reason to not do that.
I am curious what can of worms the exhaust solution is going to open up. Makes one appreciate why VW routed the exhaust ports so oddly on the Type 1 engines.
A bit more done today. I made a bracket for the oil tank and mounted it and the breather. Then some measurements.
Pete - not sure what you are referring to on the exhaust. It's been on like that and running all year with no issues. Sounds pretty nasty. Not as bad as a VW with a megaphone header however. Just a big VW sound.
I had one of the first (1970) and one of the last (1976) Porsche 914's and loved them both - this has been fun to read!
I would love to have a computer controlled bracket cutter outer!
UPDATE. Dry sump is in and done. I am impressed. It took some time to get back at it and measure, order and fab all the hoses. Do underside is here. 2 suction lines and the #10 smaller supply line into the pan passed into the old oil pick up hole.
The lines to and from the pump. Front lower are suction lines. Rear lower is suction from the reservoir tank. Upper front is to reservoir (return) and upper rear is pressure line to engine.
Drive belt system from below.
Then inside the car, the reservoir has the larger suction and return lines on the right, the breather on top along with the engine crankcase suction. That is connected to the valve cover breathers to act like a PCV and keep the crankcase under neagtive pressure as well as pull vapors to the reservoir. I added a drain valve that I can connect a hose barb and hose to in order to drain out of the car and avoid a big old mess on the floor.
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