C5 Corvette Track Journey

I purchased this 1999 corvette with about 90k with a few goals-

• Would allow me to add safety gear without compromising my street car
• Have a car that will allow me to get my competitiion liscense eventually
• Less risky on the track financially. Insurance was nuts on my street car and walking away from it wasn't realistic
• Get a MT again
• Not lose a ton of time over my M4
• Lighter weight
• Maybe a little cheaper to run.

This car came with a little track history up in the NE.

It came with some track specific upgrades

• BK harness bar
• Sparco Seats
• Simpson Harnesses
• Wilwood BBK
• Z06 suspension
• aftermarket shifter
• Set of z06 wheels
• Tow hooks
• Maybe more as I dig in

First up was stripping it. Most of the interior just pulls out without tools. Just start pulling on things. The carpet in the driver's footwell needs the throttle pedal stop removed for it to come out. Just 2 bolts.

Getting the original seats back in

I added a new android head unit that can run things like Torque. Maybe I'll strip the radio one day, but that comes after trailering. The texture on these double din replacement doesn't really match. Maybe I'll flock it eventually. The radio is a atoto s8. It was super cheap and while it might not be audiophile quality, this car is loud. It makes noise. It does carplay, android auto, and apps.

I also threw a QR wheel in. I don't really need it, but I always wanted one. NRG SRK-170H hub NRG SRK 250RG hub.

A little while later I got some of the vinyl in and started making it look like a racecar. Its a cheap kit from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D8FKXVRD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Future plans so far-

I'm building this towards spec corvette. That allows me to run st3/tt3 with nasa too iirc. The class looks interesting and only so many things you can do

• Fluids need changed. Ordered most of them already- 75w-90 rear diff. Amsoil Torque drive ATF for the transmission. Supposedly its compatible with the earlier t56 paper gaskets. Otherwise use non synthetic.
• Might need the harmonic balancer done. I'll mark it with some paint, but I might just do it when I have the radiator out.
• All the suspension bushings are getting done. I have a poly afe kit. Maybe I'll get delrin eventually, but it was a huge difference in price
• All new ball joints are planned. I have a set of moogs ready to go k6527 and k500134. Word of warning, moog has changed the upper ball joints and they are a lower quality non greasable one. If you can't get the older version I wouldn't pay moog prices for it.
• Spec Corvette spoiler is on order
• Spec Corvette combo oil\rad is on hand and waiting to go it.
• Marrad super low mounts ordered for the driver's seat. The ones it came with were non-adjustable,
• I got a deal on a set of new lifeline 6pt belts. The simpsons were very expired. Legal for hpde, but I'll feel better.
• I think the suspension is the next big order. I'm not sure if I won't wait until mid-season to do that. It'll be almost $4k

Tonight I did the trackspec hood vents.

Starting to look a little more racecar. I think I'll work on getting my drivers seat mounted and the belts in next.

Nicely done! A modded base C5 is absolutely my pick for Corvette track rat.

Excellent.  Love seeing some corvette content

Following this closely, you're about where I'd like to be in a year with a C5 track car.

Following, love the C5 content (former FRC owner here). 

I have a weird vision of picking up a base model, removing the hatch cover entirely, installing a clear polycarbonate panel vertically where the hatch cover meets the halo hoop, and using the rear cargo area like a pickup bed. 

In reply to nsogiba :

LOL. That would be stupid easy to do on this car. Have you watched the FDF c6? They look to be rebuilding rear end from scratch. I've actually thought about doing some mods back there. Maybe drill some big holes in the tub in back to allow air out. Right now it is a huge air brake. Some people cut out the center storage area and use it to mount diff and tranny coolers. Stick fans on them to draw air out. I'm just cautious where I'm dumping air as I know you want low pressure under the car.

I spend most of Sunday putting the driver's seat in, sitting, pulling it out, making adjustments to mounts and belts, rinse and repeat. Getting a fixed seat set up correctly is a PITA. The coupe made it so much easier though. I could pull the seat out the top and rest it on the windshield while I adjusted things rather than have to try and fish it in and out of the door at least. I'll post some pics once it is final, but I have a couple bolts to order.

Exciting day. The quickjack arrived and got assembled. I've been waiting on it to get started with some of the mechanical work.

Seats and belts are the gift that keeps giving. 2 steps forward 1 back.

The BK harnesses bar was designed to work with a full interior. Now I have... not that. Without the stock belts in the car the bolts are too long and bottom out. I can confirm the thread is m12x1.75 for the shoulder belt holes. A m12x40mm 10.9 bolt worked okay, but didn't quite bottom out. You might try a 35mm bolt or just shim it with a couple washers. Fits fine now. drivers seat is waiting for another set of AMT stud extenders to make a single stud long enough to fit the BK bar forward braces. $50 for one bolt I need. Grr. I was going to just put in a longer stud, but the previous owner hogged out the brace to fit AMT style mounts. Annoying, but the last piece I need to have functioning seats again.

I also buttoned up the intake. I had pulled it out to do the "Flip Tie" mod, but ended up giving up on cutting the radiator shroud. I used the frame like the video here, but left it facing it. At least the car is running again. I don't suspect there is a terrible lot of difference, especially with the hood vents to keep the temps down. I mostly started down this road because it needed a new filter anyways. The paper filter actually had a couple small holes.

Next up was venting the wheel wells. With the trackspec vents right over the top of the wheels it is too good an opportunity to pass up. Pressure builds up in your wheel wells and contributes to lift. This should help with that. I added some screen material to keep larger things from coming into the engine bay. The nice bit is the fenders are composite and super easy to cut.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PBF1SLJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09ZXY5GL8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Draw the plan

Cut the plan

Added some screening

Finished product through the vents

Next project was mounting the gstream aero spoiler. They say its 30min with basic hand tools. Maybe if you are an octopus. Its not really that bad other than all the hardware is installed through the rear tail light openings. You can fit an impact driver in if you really try. I dropped way too many 3mm hex keys.

Next up- get it in the air and see what else it needs suspension wise. I need to check if the previous owners did z06 springs, or just the shocks and sways. I might leave it for a bit if that's the case. Otherwise I want to order coilovers and swaybars to do when I pull off the control arms to do bushings.

After what feels like 27 trips to the hardware store the seats are finally mounted. Latest complication was the bolts holding the seat to the bracket were impacting the floor and preventing the bracket from lying flat. Another round of seat fitting i was finally able to get it bolted down and the Harness bar with braces secured. Shoulder belts mounted and ends neatly rolled. 

I also got a new bracket for the catalyst and got it mounted. Maybe i'll hard wire it eventually, but I'm declaring victory over the interior for now. 

 

Mount is - PanaVise #751101597 in case someone is looking for the part later. The ball, etc came with the garmin.

New discovery day. I finally got under the car.

• Springs are the base ones per the casting numbers 22146484/22146483
• Sway bars appear to be c6 z51 models. 25.1mm rear 31mm front 10339124
• Shocks look like they are stock c6 z06 shocks 10313647

While I was in there I nudged the front ride height up with the stock bolts. CW is raise, CCW is lower. With the weight out of the rear primarily from stripping it was riding high and it will make getting into the driveway easier. The car looks amazing for a 25 year old car that lived in the rust belt all its life. I could swear it is a SW car. Only token surface rust in a couple places where water collects.

The front brakes have cooling ducts all the way to the back of the rotors.

I think the spacers are so the wagon wheels clear the brakes. I noticed the tire date while taking them off- 0816. eek. They aren't cracking, but I need need tires stat.

I also discovered a power steering leak on the passenger side. It looks like there is damage to the boot on that side. I need to investigate if I can rebuild it.

Anyone ever fixed a leaky corvette rack?

Never fixed a rack but they're not difficult to remove. You might want to upgrade the rack mounting bushing while you're in there, it's cheap and easy. 

https://www.dougrippie.com/drm-steering-rack-bushings

I know this may be an unpopular opinion but I wouldn't worry about the tire age. 
 

glad you were able to solve the seat-fitting issue!

In reply to nsogiba :

I hear its just a lot of work. I need to disassemble the front to install the new radiator/oil cool anyways. While I'm doing that I might as well pull the rack and do the harmonic balancer as well. It looks like a stock unit. Then there are a lot of while you're in there items- tensioners, pumps, maybe a cam since the whole front will be apart.... If I didn't need the car running a month from now I'd do it all.

I did find this excellent thread-

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/4634349-diy-c5-power-steering-rack-and-pinion-rebuild.html

Or you can send it in to turn one for about $450.

File this under dumb stuff I do... Also poured in some lucas stop leak. The fluid in there was pretty gross. Cross my fingers. Rented the steering wheel puller again. My wheel angle was off and the 1/2" adapter didn't get it where I needed. If you take the clock spring off you can get by without the adapter. Nearly every installed video tells you to buy the $30 nrg adapter because of the clock spring. The only wires running through the clockspring are the airbag wires. Zero reason to keep it. With the clock spring out the hole in the NRG short hub lines up with the hole for the horn wire, and aligns perfect. So take that clock spring out and save yourself some cash.

nsogiba said:

Never fixed a rack but they're not difficult to remove.  

 

 

I respectfully disagree with this statement! When I did mine, the main hassle was undoing the hydraulic connections to the rack itself. You can see them but there's very little room to get a wrench on them that would allow you to "shock" the fitting loose. I ended up separating the PS oil cooler and threading a box end wrench onto the pipe to undo the drain side, and then cut the HP pipe in situ. You then have to drop the engine cradle c. 10mm to physically get the rack out. Once it was out, I was able to use a socket and 3/8 drive ratchet to remove the stuck fitting.

After coating my knuckles with Band Aids, I sent the rack to Turn One and even added one of their PS pumps so that (hopefully) I never need to do this job again. And I have a mid-rise lift. 

It was a miserable job........

Busy weekend

Friday was fluids- did the rear diff and transmission. The diff was a little sparkly. It was also super dirty, so who knows when it was last changed. Trans fluid looked pretty okay. Amsoil went back in.

Saturday- Started the coilover install. I ended up going with the Viking Crusader dual adjustables. 600F/550R. Get the 2.25" spring option as well as the clevis mount for the front. I didn't order helper springs since I thought I was running at the upper end of the adjustment range and they are a significant expense. All this I got from Jeremy Swenson who was a GLTC champion. Its a departure from the spec corvette stuff, but I think its going to be a longer road to get this fully prepped than I originally imagined.

edit- I eventually got the rear helper springs. You'll almost certainly need them.

It was mostly no drama. However the front leaf spring I ended up cutting out. I couldn't get the LCA low enough to slide it out. Rather than struggle with it, sawsall to the rescue. Nobody kill me, it was a base spring.

Here's the installed coil over. They use an interesting offset mount in the rear with snap rings.

Here it is with everything back together. I have the suspension roughly adjusted, but it needs to go in for a alignment. I need to pull out the steering rack to fix a leak soon and I think I'll install the rear helper springs before I hit up a race shop to do a full setup. Tires and wheels are also new. Its 315/30r18 Nanking ns-2r and Forgestar f14 18x11 all around. I didn't intend to buy this setup this year, but the CRS fell through with the shipping problems and I was scrambling for a solution before my first event next week.

Car sure looks a lot slicker with the new wheels. I have an autocross event next weekend to shake it out a bit.

This weekend was the first event with the car. Autocross school with the Scca. I was there mostly to shake down the car before its first track day. 

shocks i ran 8c,8r f 6c,6r r. Viking crusader doubles. I was targeting 30 psi f/r hot. Wear and roll with the ns-2r looked good with those pressures though i think i may target 29 in the rear as it has lost more weight. My instructor suggested a touch more compression up front. Id like to quiet the rear just a touch on trailing throttle oversteer.  Overall the car really hooked with this setup and i had substantially more grip than i did on the m4. I need to see how far i can push it. Having proper seats really helps to feel what the car is doing

18/135 on raw time or 36/135 pax with admittedly more than half being 'students'. My instructor was in a c5z with more than 100hp more and full cams aero. I was about 9/10th behind him. His wife codrove and i ended up 0.044 behind her. Im interested in how that'll translate into lap time at autobahn cc. 
 

punchlist for the first trackday

1. install the new re built steering rack.
2. brake fluid to srf
3. reinstall the front brake ducts
4. install radiator/ oil cooler
5. change oil
6. alignment
7.  Check on the goop on the drivers rear shock. 
8. add a long thick flatblade to the toolkit to adjust shocks. 

maybes

1. fix AC (found out it didn't work this weekend)
2. do the crank pulley while i have the rack out
3. figure out a cup holder for the drive home
4. install the trailer hitch
5. get the tire trailer registered
6. vent the clutch housing 

Yesss. Looks like fun!

Last weekend I tackled the steering rack. What a PITA that was. I'd like to strangle the engineer who made me drop the subframe to get the rack out and only allow about 1/32nd of a turn on the PS lines from the pump. Extra fun was the new rack didn't come centered. So when I hooked my wheel up it was 180 off and I had to got back in and spin. Oddly the PS doesn't work well at low RPM now. Works fine at high RPM though. Maybe a bit of air in the rack  still? Seems like they shipped it completely empty. I'll probably send the old one back to turn 1 so I have a spare. I managed to acquire a rebuilt one without a core charge, so I get to keep the original at least.

This weekend I tackled the tracspec radiator. It's pretty massive. like 3x the stock core girth. The fans needed a little modification to fit on the new rad. While I was in there I put some more speed holes in the fan backing. I know it will reduce cooling in traffic jams, etc. However I'm not super worried. Its not a commuter, the huge rad will probably help and I have hood vents too. If it becomes a problem I'll probably just get some aftermarket fans too. I still kept the AC as well. It was a bit of a question mark it it would fit.

Unfortunately I didn't get as far as I liked. I got the coolant back in, but I had to cry uncle on the integrated oil cooler. The oil block they give you really needs to have the AN lines threaded on first as they are too stiff to start without a lot of crossthread risk. When you thread them first the bolts for the oil block doesn't want to go on. If they would all play nice there is plenty of room do it with the stock manifold and exhaust, just no luck.

I tried taking off the mid pipe to get myself a little more room and sheared off 4 of 6 of the manifold to exhaust studs. Grrr. For extra fun something greasy looks like it exploded inside my passenger rear wheel. The CV boot looks fine. I'm mystified. However the PO appeared to over grease everything on this car so far. From the way it spread it has to be something near the hub.Anyhow figuring out the studs is a problem for future me. I'm contemplating just doing headers, but I don't want another thing to do before the first event.

punchlist for the first trackday

1. ~~install the new re built steering rack~~
2. brake fluid to srf
3. reinstall the front brake ducts
4. ~~install radiator~~/ oil cooler
5. change oil
6. alignment
7.  ~~Check on the goop on the drivers rear shock.~~
8. add a long thick flatblade to the toolkit to adjust shocks.
9. New cotter pins for the steering ball ends

New Balance logo...HA!

Today I put in new axles on both sides. This should fix the grease explosion I had in RR. Still a lot of grease on the suspension that I had to clean off. While I was in there, new diff seals as well. Its a surprisingly easy job aside from just taking the suspension apart.

Also added helper springs to the rear coilovers. They were rattling around a little at full droop. The front seems fine.

I also got the engine oil cooler hooked up. The magic was threading the front bolt of the block so its located, but can rotate about the single bolt. Then you thread on the AN fittings. Finally you can rotate the block up to start the 2nd bolt. You're fighting a lot less weight this way. Wish I had a crows foot wrench in the right size for tightening the AN fittings. I had to cut the end off a crescent wrench in order to get it done.
 

Getting close to ready. Just need to fix my exhaust manifold bolts and swap over to SRF.

In reply to theruleslawyer :

I had the same issue with the exhaust bolts on my C5. Just ended up doing headers from Huron Speed (don't know if they still offer that system). Maybe just torch/drill out those studs and replace? I get not wanting to throw more money at the problem.