This thing is sick.
This thing is sick.
UPDATE:
This month marks 10 years with the car!!! Car turns 30 next month. approx 239k on the body, 50k on motor :)
-evo 3 turbo finally died out. both wheels had damage. I went with a billet 20g/split 5 blade wheel combo and had Justin whitesell machine the cover and do the whole job. The turbo hits full boost at 4200 and midrange-topend is great. its def laggier but it works better for backroads and highway as u dont just blow the tires off at 3800epm. i also rev to 7500now. the E3 turbo died off at 6300 noticeably.
-my exh mani has a crack and that needs addressed, thats not helping spool at all
car is now keeping up with 600s, and thats about where i wanna be. :)
-shifter counterweight remains were rubbing on the lower coolant hose....went and found a new substitute and got it fitted in and the shifter cleaned up after hacking that all off.
-rewrapped the downpipe with DEI to keep alt cooler
-alt/batt/batt leads all swapped. they were all at least 5 years old. had a volt drop issue and just did it all. back at 14v now.
went to a car cruise in, car looked good!
upgraded to ECMlink V3 FULL.....now i can finally run ECU boost control. took 2 days to get ut to work, but now i see 25psi to redline, and i can make it dip, hold or spike wherever i want.
my mani is old cracked and not optimum for the mhi turbo. im going back to a smaller 2g mani that will work for the td05 20g way better for spoolup, but not hurt topend.
I had to bore it out to 60mm, ao i did a setup for that and used carbides to blend.
Ok its all back together and boosting. I used a new fel-pro gasket as the MLS showed signs if a leak in cyl #1. new turbo to mani oem gasket as the MLS there also had 2 leaks. I also lightly removed the step on the hotside to smooth the flow a bit.
car is now seeing 38lbs min onnthe entire topend, and the response under 4k is better, as well as it coming alive at 4k, not 4300. just wha i needed!
Hey guys!!!
Updates:
-auto trans swap parts have been accumulated. Trans, evo X paddles, fourced-four shift box, kiggly adapter kit, T/Converter, 2g shifter assy are all here. Hopefully in the fall that happens.
I went to a mitsu meetup and got the car dynoed! 373whp/314whq. This is on 25psi and the ingersol ramd controller unit is doing awesome and i hold that to redline easily. Its a beast.
Downpipe is gonna get redone, the flex has a leak so we are just gonna Vband the punishment O2 housing and make a fresh custom DP :)
I always love it when this car pops back up on the front page of the forum.
In reply to AMiataCalledSteve :
Me too!
Ok so good and bad news lol
Good:
Downpipe is done, looks and works amazing. Spoolup and power are improved noticeably. It goes right from a 2.5" at the O2 housing right to a 3" all the way back. Finally! And all Vbands now :)
Bad:
The old DP was so constricted it was killing my power. Thats why the dyno power was a bit low. I had no idea till we cut the pipe lol.
Prrtty sure on the dyno the tq curve is janky from the clutch slipping a bit. The guy rode the clutch badly....i smelled it. Its ok cause auto is going in anyways. All the parts are here.
Water pump started leaking the day i got the downpipe work done, but i caught it before the motor got above 210 for very long. Went out to retune it and saw the temps in the logs. Found a spot when i got back home and verified its water pump.
I have parts coming this week for a FULL timing belt, water pump, front main seal and the works for that!
Ok, some pics!
Also, pretty DSLR pics i did that day:
Oooh curious what next dyno numbers look like. ~400whp in the should be hysterical.
In reply to 84FSP :
I cant get more than about 380 to the wheels reliably. I tried 40lbs min (400whp estimate) and it was tire fires after spoolup lol. The motor and turbo are really coming alive at 37-38lbs min airflow, at 25psi of boost. 28 is too much. Its already nutso :)
Its been 9 yrs since the motor had a timing belt and seals done.....welp, lets do it. I have nowhere covered to work on this thing, so we do it grudge style in the parking lot, as usual. Enjoy the nasty oily mess ive been dealing with for 9 years lol.
Every seal was replaced, all new gaskets, all clean and tq'd via manual. Timing belt is ready to go on, and oil pan seal comes tomorrow :)
Oh, i found the #2 oil squirter in the oil pan, soool yeah LOL. ill get to that later on.
Finally the hurricane is gone!!!! Finally.
I got it all finished up! Primed the heck out of it, burped the coolant and it fired right up and oil psi went right up :).
I found a disconnected ground for the fan, unsure when that happened but that didnt help the situation! Was within the last 2 weeks of it being on the road. Musta got caught when i pulled something else out. I was watching the logs on warmup and it didnt kick on. Investigated and found that. Its back to 190° on, 180° off. Took it for a drive and its good, ZERO LEAKS! :o
I moved the fan controller and i want to make a bracket for it and the EBCS next to the rad area that i can get to easily. That will be addressed asap!
Is good to have the popcorn cams back in my life
Car is great! No leaks! Passes all checks. I also remounted the fan controller and EBC next to the PS headlight for better access.
I did some slight tuning and we are now seeing 40lbs/min @25psi on ecu, up to 27 on the gauge and its.holding steady via the Ing-Rand EBC. Afr is 12.4 midrange and i slightly have it richer up top to about 11.9. Mentally its a lot when doing pulls. The 225 toyo R1Rs are roasting off in 3rd gear.
UPDATES:
-Had my fab guy make a custom j pipe to clear the fan and baking pan shroud situation...yes, a bakers mark baking pan from the trash...you heard me.....yes, it works lol. I guess i should show that LOL
-Went to speed density. No IAT yet, as i want new piping and intake made for that to go into. Idles drives and can get into boost. Idle is a lil surgy bit im still fine tuning that. Finally decided to try it out.
Fab guy is ordering uicp and intake pipes so we have stuff ready. I also ordered a small velocity stack and some mesh to protect the turbo for now.
I AINT DEAD YET MF's! MEGA UPDATE:
Back over the winter I got the Speed Density really tuned in, and I was seeing 46lbs/min of airflow. The car was insane fast. I went out fine tuning stuff and after a pull, on a jughandle turn, I heard lots of noise and it shut off.
The timing belt tensioner arms pin WALKED OUT of the timing mount. Like....came out. 30 years of abuse I guess. Nobody's ever seen it before. All the valves were fvcked but it happened on decel at 3000rpm. Cams and most rockers survived. Head was redone, it survived. Pistons have dents but my tuner and other DSM buddy's laughed at the minima damage and said send it. I parked it in Dec. I moved in Feb. I let it be till springtime.
Last month I had it towed to my new apt and I'm doing all the work outside (as usual LOL).
-NEW HG
-head totally redone
-fresh cyclone dual stage intake mani
-turbo bolts and hardware redone
-new timing mount refurb
-had a stripped Mani to head stud. HELICOILED and successful repair
-rehelicoiled turbo hotside bolts and repaired all threads there.
-new heat shield from stock
-refurbed my old Hyundai VC and had it PC to fire engine red and I hand block sanded the letters clean.
The car is currently going back together and it might be running next week
TEAR DOWN PICS:
New new. I did an EGR delete cap as well. The stud helicoil job was done in the engine bay. Yay.
had to get a new tensioner bracket online. The pin is good on this one. Bushings were shot on mine, and it's all obsolete...so I.....machine new aluminum bronze ones and left .001" play max. With anti seize in there it has ZERO side deflection play. Just enough to smoothly cam up and down. I redid the entire thing. I also dimpled and had the pin welded and I machined it flat. It's never coming out now. The tensioner arm was worn from the tensioner so I had that welded up and I machined that back to flat and smooth. Every bolt hole every part was gone over. Blasted primed and painted. It looks NEW:
In reply to HaveBlue83 :
Current progress:
Cyclone intake mani went on. I got it cheap from a buddy and it's been blasted and PC hammered gray. I removed the orange color on the letters and redid them to Red. I will be using a boost controlled actuator for the butterfly's to open the short runners under boost. Not a big fan of vacume cannisters and solenoids and rpm switches. I want it to come on after I hit full boost. It's mainly for low end and better spoolup, so after that, let her eat. I have to make a bracket for the actuator.
Timing belt is on and tensioned wonderfully. Pin spins, bolts are locktited. Now it's just get the other bits back on and clean up crap as I go.
Just think of this as a complete topend 10 year refresh job! Ya! Lol
Forgot to update!
Car went back together fine! Makes the same 450whp, new fresh head running great. New timing stuff is good.
I had a new custom intake made and the car is ready for this year's fun :)
Looking good. Great job with this. I do miss my 4G coupe. That's part of why I got the 5G hatch. Too much fun.
You ever take it to the track? How is the cooling if you do?
I'm thinking through a turbo 4g93 Mivec build and just been thinking about the cooling side of thing. I've already got hood vents on the list and maybe an Evo 5 radiator. I will be building out a series of airflow channels too.
In reply to bmw88rider :
Not yet. The cooling could be better in town. I might go back to an OEM rad to get more surface area. The dual pass seems not the best in town. At night on the highway it's 175° 😂
That is one of the things I have to figure out.
Cool. I'm planning on a set of hood vents. Since the hood is the same as the US 5G coupe, I feel no pain in cutting it up.
My radiator is the same as the 5G coupe as well and I just don't think with the added heat of the turbo that it will handle the humid summer track days at like Ozarks or Hedge Hollow.
I'll be looking at solutions potentially with the Evo 5 style radiator and the hood vents.
In reply to bmw88rider :
They have proton Evo hoods in Malaysia, I wish I could get one!
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